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KnightOwl

Gypsy's custom headlights build

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Inspired by wstefan20 and his Spyder retrofit, I decided to embark on a similar project for my GP. Instead of projectors or HIDs, I've decided to try using aftermarket halo fog lights in place of the headlights. Yes, there will be issues to overcome.

 

And here we go.....

 

I purchased a set of salvage yard projector housings from Imp558 (Thank you sir!) So this is my start point.

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I did as much disassembly as possible before preparing to separate the housings and lens. However, just like wstefan20, I discovered the supplied projector wasnt great quality and the low-beam hood seemed too large to me.

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I watched a video on pulling housings apart which called for the oven at 270 for 7 minutes. Following those guidelines, the lens would move was very stubborn. I returned the housing to the oven for another 3 minutes and the lens came off but unfortunately the housing broke in the process. Its a pretty clean break and I think it can be repaired with epoxy and since it bonds to the lens on reassembly, should be okay...I hope

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Just like with the Spyders wstefan20 took apart, the supplied halos were little more than a clear plastic ring with 2 LEDs at the bottom.

 

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The projector lens itself was a domed magnifying glass. Not sure if they all are like this but at least a heavy glass piece. However this wont be going back in with my current plan.

 

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This is the crucial part to my build. I'll be scouring eBay for LED halo fog lights in the proper diameter to fit these holes. It looks like the low beam location will accommodate a 3 inch and the high beam a 2 inch. There appears to be ample room behind for the housings and I'll have to seal the back to prevent moisture fogging.

 

IMG_6270-M.jpg

 

This is an example to the type of light I'll be looking for, and I'll have to do something to shield a portion of the low beam lens similar to the projector housing...but since LEDs dont generate much heat, I may be able to use a good vinyl decal or foil tape.

LEDs-M.jpg

 

While the housings came with a wire harness, I'm sure I'll need some guidance with hooking things up properly. Electrical has never been my strong point so this may take some doing to work out properly.

 

But I'm off and running! LOL (or breaking as it were...)

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i want to retain the wire harness that came with the headlights so I can "plug-n-play" with the car connections. Making sure the halo rings burn with the DRLs and all else working as planned will take some doing and I'll certainly be posting questions on the problems as I go.

 

I was also considering using LED bulbs for the turn signals (3157) but I noticed all of them require a resistor to be installed. This goes where?

 

I'd also like to swap out the small side marker bulbs but not sure what number they are or if LED replacements are available?

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Sorry to see the housing broke like that, at least it didn't fracture and left you with two puzzle pieces.

 

When you replace a turn signal bulb with a LED light the LEDs draw significantly less current than a filament bulb. That being said flashers are essentially auto reset thermal circuit breakers so we will end up drawing less current and they will either not draw enough current to pop the "circuit breaker" or not draw enough to pop it quickly enough and they will flash too slow.

 

The resistors would go in parallel with the LEDs to draw more current for this reason, alternatively one could replace the flasher with an electronic timer style.

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Would the electronic flasher simply plug-n-play in place of the stock flasher?

 

Before I pull the other one apart, I think I'll try 10 degrees more oven heat and 10 instead of 7 minutes

 

Also, what is the best material to re-seal the lens back together?

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i want to retain the wire harness that came with the headlights so I can "plug-n-play" with the car connections. Making sure the halo rings burn with the DRLs and all else working as planned will take some doing and I'll certainly be posting questions on the problems as I go.

 

I was also considering using LED bulbs for the turn signals (3157) but I noticed all of them require a resistor to be installed. This goes where?

 

I'd also like to swap out the small side marker bulbs but not sure what number they are or if LED replacements are available?

Awesome start by the way! Glad to see others following in the same path! You can use a load resistor to slow down the blink, but I ended up opting to get a different relay to solve. I used this link on grand prix forums: http://www.grandprixforums.com/visual-body-modifications/32330-official-switchback-led-bulb-hyperflash-fix-and-sidemarker-flash-delete.html

 

I think the side markers are just a 194 if I recall. most any work, but you have to get the polarity right. I'll have to look up the schematics, but I remember that stock, these side markers actually pass current both directions which potentially could fry the led. I'll get back to you on that though.

 

Strange on the rubber, usually 270 for 7 works every time for me unless it's oem. You should definitely be able to glue that back or might look into plastic welding. that saved my rear and works really well! I think $15 at harbor freight.

 

Can't wait to see progress!

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I've decided to leave the second housing intact until I finish the first...mostly to use it as a wire harness guide so I connect everything properly.

 

wstefan20, you mentioned 270 for 7 worked well for everything but oem....what setting /time have you used for those?

 

I'm also curious what to reseal them with. I know RTV is a good sealer but lousy adhesive. Do you opt for one of the various silicone adhesive found at Home Depot or is there a dedicated kind of goop just for this application?

 

Sealing the back will be another ball game but I'm going to explore some different rubber plugs for that.

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I've decided to leave the second housing intact until I finish the first...mostly to use it as a wire harness guide so I connect everything properly.

 

wstefan20, you mentioned 270 for 7 worked well for everything but oem....what setting /time have you used for those?

 

I'm also curious what to reseal them with. I know RTV is a good sealer but lousy adhesive. Do you opt for one of the various silicone adhesive found at Home Depot or is there a dedicated kind of goop just for this application?

 

Sealing the back will be another ball game but I'm going to explore some different rubber plugs for that.

Probably a good idea! 

 

As far as the temp, I usually just leave them a minute or two longer, try to pry (gently), if it doesn't work, pry again, if it doesn't work, stick it back in for a few minutes again, and keep doing that. You shouldn't need that much to get them off though. 

 

Best thing to use is "retro-rubber" which is basically butyl rubber. You can buy it online and in some auto stores. Think it's the same thing used to seal windshields. Just make sure you heat them up once apart and "scrape" out the old rubber. 

 

Let me know what you find for sealing the rear. I'm still dealing with that since my projector protrudes out the back a slight bit...

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When I did LED side markers in the regal I used 2 omron relays to run them. An LED won't get hurt by reverse polarity but it will not light either.

Well.... if you're cheap like me and use ebay/China leds, they do indeed break when reversed! lol

 

The relays are definitely a good idea though! I'm still making up my mind on what I want to do. For now, I wired them just for parking.

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Well.... if you're cheap like me and use ebay/China leds, they do indeed break when reversed! lol

 

 

That shouldn't be a thing, most LEDs are china made. Maybe they had a resistor in parallel internal that ended up getting overpowered without the voltage division or something. 

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That shouldn't be a thing, most LEDs are china made. Maybe they had a resistor in parallel internal that ended up getting overpowered without the voltage division or something.

You're probably on to something there. You could tie them together, run a ground, and place diodes to keep them from back feeding.

 

I'm still playing around with that stuff myself

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I ordered some amber LED 194 replacement bulbs and an electronic flasher. I'm also looking online to get a roll of the butyl rubber sealer (I honestly didn't know you were supposed to put it back in the oven to reseal...read and learn!)

 

I also think I'm going with 3M foil tape to create the low-beam shield. I should be able to cut a half-moon shape to fit the fog light lens. This might involve mocking up the housing on the car before I re-seal the lens to get the proper effect. The 3M foil tape is supposed to be weather-proof, flame retardant and conforms to shape. We'll see what happens.

 

I also need to post a pic tonight of one of the wire adapter plugs...one wire has come out and I need to know if it can be repaired?

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Aluminum flashing material comes on a roll, cuts with scissors and can be polished. Amongst it's many uses it's fantastic for making templates for body work and brackets and stuffs.

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Does anyone have an old set of GP corner housings they want to get rid of? I was thinking about covering the 194 bulb area with amber reflector like the factory corner...not crazy about the bare chrome corner with the bulb sticking out the middle.

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59dc45f42d0ec7de1e3d7a11528a2b34.jpg

Heck yeah The lights came a day early and I couldn’t resist a little mock-up to see how they look! I’m gonna have to trim the inside hole for perfect fit but it looks like it has real potential.

I also ordered some LED strips to add to the halos for DRL

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Next quick step...working on a solution to seal the back of the lights. I decided to utilize the original projector housing which reduces the hole size I need to seal

IMG_6326-M.jpg

 

I then used a step drill bit to open both holes to 7/8 inch

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With these open to equal size, I intend to use a couple small sections of hose, one inside another, sealed with RTV that allows the wiring to pass through the smallest hose. High beams thru one, low beams thru the other. Or you could plug one entirely and just use one

IMG_6328-M.jpg

 

Now onward to mounting the LED light to the black inner frame!

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A grommet could work on the high beam hole but the projector bucket hole is too deep. But if all the wires could pass out the high beam hole then I could just plug the other one. We shall see!

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