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Deck surface


NCTyphoonKid

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With or without the slugs in?

 

easier done with the slugs out,

 

a flat sanding board, a scotchbrite pad, wd-40, acetone will work as well

 

lay the length of the board across the width of the mating surface & smooth straight strokes from one end to the other

 

http://www.marshallshardware.com/images2/productimages/23096-l.jpg

 

https://repaintsupply.com/images/products/39942.jpg

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I know I might get some flack for this, but personally, I don't recommend this being a diy job at all, especially if you plan on making extra power. I've seen diy both work and fail, but the head gasket is specifically designed for a specific ra finish. This gasket is subject to extreme heat as well as different thermal expansion rates and load forces. I have some background in mechanical engineering, so I know (somewhat) what I'm talking about. I always take it to the machine shop. I think they charge me $50 for block and heads plus $50 for acid clean and magnaflux so for me, it's worth the piece of mind. Again, just my humble opinion, either way, I wish you luck!

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Not looking to make extra power. Just wanting it to be a drivable cruiser. The guy I asked at the machine shop said if I was doing it myself to get a 3in scotchbrite pad and it should be fine

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Yeah, and if you rotate the block so things fall away from the engine instead of into the engine it'll be easier. Acetone to do a final cleaning is still a great idea.

Ok cool, next question is how clean should the surface be? Should all gasket material be removed?

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yes, very clean and maybe don't get crazy with acetone until you have head gaskets ready to go on right then. Any little film of oil will be cleaned away and rust will form from just moisture in the air so we want to slap it together before that happens.

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I know I might get some flack for this, but personally, I don't recommend this being a diy job at all, especially if you plan on making extra power. I've seen diy both work and fail, but the head gasket is specifically designed for a specific ra finish. This gasket is subject to extreme heat as well as different thermal expansion rates and load forces. I have some background in mechanical engineering, so I know (somewhat) what I'm talking about. I always take it to the machine shop. I think they charge me $50 for block and heads plus $50 for acid clean and magnaflux so for me, it's worth the piece of mind. Again, just my humble opinion, either way, I wish you luck!

Maybe if your going to mls, i cleaned my deck surface by hand with scotchbrite and measured ra and it was around 20-30 and cometics called for a max of 50 ra i think it was. Scotchbrite by hand is not enough to really alter a machined surface even on aluminum parts but works fantastic on cleaning off old gasket materials or carbons that are "baked" on

 

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Maybe if your going to mls, i cleaned my deck surface by hand with scotchbrite and measured ra and it was around 20-30 and cometics called for a max of 50 ra i think it was. Scotchbrite by hand is not enough to really alter a machined surface even on aluminum parts but works fantastic on cleaning off old gasket materials or carbons that are "baked" on

 

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That's not bad ra at all! I guess I got screwed in the "shiny block department" when I did mine. 

 

And agreed, this is not a recommendation when going to mls. The tolerances are crazy tight there. From what you're saying though. I agree with above, you should be set and ready to go!

 

Biggest pet peve I have is people who "just have a head gasket problem" and never bother to check the block or heads to see if anything is warped or cracked! You really do need a machinist's straight edge and feeler gauges for every head job whether it overheated or not. Doesn't sound like you skipped any steps though! Good luck! :)

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yes, very clean and maybe don't get crazy with acetone until you have head gaskets ready to go on right then. Any little film of oil will be cleaned away and rust will form from just moisture in the air so we want to slap it together before that happens.

So all gasket material needs to be removed and then acetone and reassemble. I have heard of people putting shaving cream in all the ports to prevent debris from falling down in the block from what I’ve read it doesn’t affect anything

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So all gasket material needs to be removed and then acetone and reassemble. I have heard of people putting shaving cream in all the ports to prevent debris from falling down in the block from what I’ve read it doesn’t affect anything

Never heard of that one before... I usually just vacuum and use compressed air then brake clean and a rag to surrounding surfaces, then acetone, place the heads, immediately stick some shop towels in every port and go from there. That being said, it's not hard to turn the engine over with no spark or fuel to blow out the debris. There's many ways to do this

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