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Power Master Delete thread


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I've seen quite a bit of interest in this as of late, unfortunately its 18*f outside at the moment, I will though detail my process of it that has enabled me to actually drive my TGP without shitting myself over failing brakes.

 

So till I get around to it, this will be a placeholder. Details will be added soon.

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24 here. Performance shift going in this evening. Since your probably working with brake fluid I don't blame you. It's to cold for me

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can't do shit because I want to sand panels.

 

Besides it's too windy.

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I'll end up cleaning up the shitposting about the time I get underway on this again.

 

Just for the record, don't expect a crazy easy bolt on and go, it just cannot be that simple.

 

But will be far easier then pulling the entire dash and half the engine bay to swap a firewall plate.

 

Though I'd argue I have FAR less time in this from concept to finish product then all the hours I spent troubleshooting PMIII

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But will be far easier then pulling the entire dash and half the engine bay to swap a firewall plate.

 

NOW, I'm interested to hear this. Reading your first post, I assumed swapping firewall plates was what you're talking about. My three TGP's have PM3 functionality ranging from 0% to 50%. I've supposedly been 5 speed swapping one for the last two years, which will require the new firewall plate anyway, but my red car I've had the replacement firewall plate with vacuum setup laying in the garage floor ready to go for over a year now, but lacked motivation and a second reliable DD to drive while it's down.

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So, My apologises for not getting this off the ground. I ended up having a change of plans and put the TGP in storage for the year, perhaps I'll get it out sooner then later.

 

But in the meantime, what I did was make a adapter plate the bolted to the firewall plate where the PMIII bracket used to be. I think I can get the drawing I used for it. Its not perfect and really could use the booster mounting holes moved down a tad, but it works as is.

 

then I drilled 4 holes in the firewall plate to allow the bolts of the booster to slide through, though next time I'll probably just cut a big hole so I can actually bolt the booster on from the inside of the car, as it currently is you cannot do that and I about murdered my hands getting it on with the booster attached.

 

Booster and master used were from a 4g F body. Though I just saw on Facebook, Bob seems to have used a Cadillac master cylinder of some kind, which looks to be a considerably better choice then I used.

 

No matter what you get its is extremely important to get a master that is a F/R split design. Any other W body is dual diagional and at least with keeping the factory lines will not be right for this application.

 

Then welding. You will need to cut the F body pushrod end off, and put the PMIII on the other side of it, adding length where necessary. 

 

Now the lines.

 

I ended up cutting the ends off the front lines and reflareing them with regular SAE thread ends then joined them into a T fitting so I could have one line feed both front wheels. the other end I terminated with the fitting for the master cyl

 

The rear lines I used an adapter to go from 1/4 line to 3/16 line and did the same thing

 

I think  have the recipts still with part numbers if wanted.

 

I probably made this thread a bit prematurely, What I have works but needs to be redone to be fully polished. Its kinda messy at the moment.

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I was going to start a new thread but this is along the same lines and the information could still be useful here.

Eliminating ABS, in my case not a PM III, I'm going to an earlier non-ABS MC, the ACDELCO 18M672.

   

post-3252-0-76616800-1510551794_thumb.jpg

 

In the image there are two doodles that I can only imagine are prop valves to slide into the ports for the rear. It was said in another thread there is proportioning done internally. My theory is these are supplemental to be added if the vehicle has rear disk brakes but I'm hoping these are the internal prop valves and not supplimental.

 

In my application I'm running second Gen brakes all around, on a second gen the prop valves for the rear are inline, the Dorman P/N is 905952.

 

post-3252-0-35931900-1510552155_thumb.jpg

 

It has me wondering if in my application, or another first Gen doing a big brake upgrade if the Second Gen rear prop valves wouldn't be a better idea if the ACDELCO 18M672 internal prop valves are those removable things?

 

It stands to reason we may be able to leave those doodles out and use the Second Gen prop valves to have it be more or less correct for the bigger brakes.

 

Anybody have any input?

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Yes please, Any pics?

 

Back in the day (been around a loooong time) “Chris A†did a f-Body brake swap that he drove for years. He cut the plate out of the f-body but didn’t mention needing to cut the brake booster arm.

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negativeMatt

I did a hydroboost swap on my 90 TGP and have been driving it now for 2 yrs with no issues. The brakes are phenomenal! I need to do a thread on it as it seems alot of these cars end up not being driven due to the junk brakes!

 

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23 hours ago, negativeMatt said:

I did a hydroboost swap on my 90 TGP and have been driving it now for 2 yrs with no issues. The brakes are phenomenal! I need to do a thread on it as it seems alot of these cars end up not being driven due to the junk brakes!

 

Yes, please do!  I might need this info in the near future.  K&R definitely needs this conversion and repair thread to fix his gorgeous and rare ABS equipped 90 CS vert.

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I'd love to see a complete Hydroboost setup

 

My apologies guys, I had high hopes for doing this. Then I got pissed at the car, put it in storage, got married had some kids and haven't looked at the car since late 2017.

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  • 3 weeks later...
negativeMatt

I'll sit down and write up a "what I did" article. I'm in the middle of a 5 speed swap now.

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