Padgett Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 OK I get it. Mechanics don't like the LQ1 because even minor things require either major disassembly or hydraulic assist. That said I need to replace the thermostat because either is none or it is stuck wide open and MPG is in the toilet. OK I got the airbox out, have the nut on the coolant pipe holder off. Now what the %^%^&&$( do I need to remove to move the coolant pipe far enough to get the water neck off ? FSM says to remove the fuel lines and sounds like the throttle body. Really ? Don't want to cut off the flange but will if needful. Help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 I usually don't reuse that thin bracket, never had an issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 There's a small rubber hose that connects that line to the throttle body. It may be worm clamped on or alligator clamped on depending if anyone has messed with it. Take it off and the line should move out the way. Easiest way to take that t stat out is by taking off the plenum. Gives you more room to play with. You don't have to mess with the fuel lines at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted April 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 1) that is part of the reason I live in Orlando. 2) The bracket is welded to the coolant pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Because surface rust scares you? Wimp. But yes it is, I bent it out of the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted April 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 (edited) OK bent and removed. Did need to make a "thin head" 13 mm wrench. Does it need that brace ? Final question: the o-ring on the thermostat is the seal, there is no gasket ? ps rust does not scare me, just have a life without it. Cracking the coolant pipe now... pps Was a 195 thermostat but innards were cocked and was partly open pps been wrenching since the early 60s. Made a lot of mistakes. Am not afraid to ask of those who have been in there before. Now a 3800 or electronics or Pontiacs with carbs (like trips or dual quads) or use of a UniSyn am happy to help but this LQ1 is (a) complex and ( unknown territory. Have the FSM and parts books but sometimes "here a miracle happens". Edited April 17, 2016 by Padgett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 OK bent and removed. Did need to make a "thin head" 13 mm wrench. Does it need that brace ? Final question: the o-ring on the thermostat is the seal, there is no gasket ? Be careful when you start distorting tig welded tabs on old coolant tubing, if you crack that tube you've then created another problem for yourself. Yes that brace is necessary, it's supports the coolant bypass tube. No gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted April 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Bent out of way like Psych0 suggested. Cracking tube was my concern also. Think I'll leave bent, tube is not going anywhere & don't want to tempt further. Will make test run to temp before putting the air box back on. Using a 180F thermostat computer should be all in by 160F. Is a Delco thermostat so do not expect to open as fast as a Superstat (Stant does not make a 180), expect full open at 190F and should stay under 200F. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 I didn't say anything about it being the proper way, but it's worked for me on three different cars. As far as I could tell it was just kind of extra support that wasn't needed. As long as everything is bolted down tight I don't see it being a major issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted April 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 Well bracket is now tight against the exhaust shield. Filled it up & bled. Ran up at idle. Hit 183 and then dropped to 179 so working properly. Let it go up to 220 and checked for leaks. Nada. Looking good. No sweet smells. Leaving to soak for a while with clean drip pan under. When cooled off will make final check, top up coolant if needed, then button up. BTW what size is that bleed screw. Bottom is 10mm but top: Not 7mm, not 8mm, not 1/4, not 9/32, not 5/16. Don't have 7.5 mm or 17/64. Finally used small needle-nosed vice grip. Don't like not having the proper tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 I'm 99% sure I've always used 7mm on the 1G bleeders. Also, I bent all my LQ1 brackets the same way Matt did. Psych0matt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted April 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 (edited) Well add me to the bent bracket group. My other GM cars are much easier to service. Need to clean the IAC now, have had to do on nearly every 20ish year old GM computer car I've had. (code 35, high idle when cold). Even wrote up the procedure. Remember to put a cloth under the IAC before removing screws. They are small and non-magnetic. Update: was very dirty and idle seems a lot better now. Screws were magnetic and Torx-T20. Do these have quite a DFCO map ? Takes about 7 seconds to come back to idle when revved. Edited April 18, 2016 by Padgett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Update: was very dirty and idle seems a lot better now. Screws were magnetic and Torx-T20. Do these have quite a DFCO map ? Takes about 7 seconds to come back to idle when revved. that isn't DFCO so much as the throttle follower. GM did weird things with the calibrations on the manual cars to where quirks like that happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Do these have quite a DFCO map ? Takes about 7 seconds to come back to idle when revved. Unlike the auto trans where the converter *slips* to prevent shock thru the driveline when throttle overrun is applied the manual trans units apply the overrun more gracefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted April 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Well on a cold start the idle is staying up over 2k for too long (several minutes) & setting a code 35. Eventually it throttles back to normal (under 1K) but it take several blocks on a 80F day. Is this normal ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vipmiller803 Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Well on a cold start the idle is staying up over 2k for too long (several minutes) & setting a code 35. Eventually it throttles back to normal (under 1K) but it take several blocks on a 80F day. Is this normal ? No Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Is this normal ? Code 35 - Idle speed control That would suggest to me that you've a vacuum leak somewhere, when the system is open loop it's not possible for the default fuel program to overcome it, but when the engine warms up & the system goes closed loop the problem isn't dramatic enough to prevent the ECM from closing off the IAC to get around it. Pull off the intake snorkel and visually look to see that the throttle blade is completely closed in the bore. Have a look at your PCV valve rubber hoses, they do get brittle & crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted April 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Thank you, minor vacuum leak makes sense. I'll check it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Well on a cold start the idle is staying up over 2k for too long (several minutes) & setting a code 35. Eventually it throttles back to normal (under 1K) but it take several blocks on a 80F day. Is this normal ? Yeah, code 35 is an idle issue. Your IAC can't control the idle. I have the same issue on my 93 Lumina Z34, however with me it's reverse. It will start normal but suddenly accelerate itself. Bought the car like that, have made the acceleration less frequent but it's not normal at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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