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Where is it: Gain Control


Padgett

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My 93 GTP has the "UW4 SPEAKER SYSTEM,6,DUAL FRONT DASH MOUNTED,FRONT DOOR,DUAL EXTENDED RANGE SHELF 6 SPKR SYS" & the amplifier box is behind the radio.

 

On page 132 of the owner's manual is mention of a "gain control" on the driver's door below the window switches. The picture looks like a slider.

 

Nyet. No control on the driver's door no how no way uh-uh.

 

Anyone have any idea where else this gain control might be ? YWTK.

Looks like you have to be in edit mode for the line feed to woik.

Edited by Padgett
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I see something at 1:40-1:50 and again at 2:45 but my door has nada.

 

Owner's manual has this but again the is nothing in or around my door (or any where else I can find. FSM just shows a control in the schematic but not where.

 

post-9662-0-23456900-1457454474_thumb.jpg

 

 

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So the coupe just has the amp and is either on or off, no individual volume control. All six speakers are producing sound but the harness is butchered so do not know what is connected to who. Yet.

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That *gain* control slider in your previous post is a bottom end controller, the STE models got a *better* sound system than the coupes. In the coupe models the amp is always on and is non adjustable, it powers up by the head unit.

 

do you have a GM service manual for the car?  The wiring schematic is in the manual.

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Yes I do but first I need to make sense out of the butchered wiring to the Kenwood. and then make a decision whether to install the correct radio or a more modern radio and a different steering wheel without the controls (looks just like the one in the 90 Bonne SE (SE meant something then) bought with 500 miles onnit - am surprised that it is the same wheel when airbags were coming out). Reguardless am going to remove the JVC changer and Kenwood amp & subs from the back.

 

Interesting how vehicle systems have evolved just in the last five years, now all I really want in the car is an amp, speakers, & BT receiver, everything else is done on my phone.

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OK have figured out how wiring should go, now need to make sense of the botched up mess that it is at the moment. Original connectors were there just chopped up. Biggest irritant is that one of the chopped wires is C2-7 (dk grn) which is the data link that connects the SWC.

Mess

post-9662-0-92884200-1457659819_thumb.jpg

 

How the big connector should be.

post-9662-0-46358700-1457659866_thumb.jpg

 

 

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I would see if you can find an original pigtail from a parts car or something and just add it back in, then it should mostly be color to color, but when done you don't have to touch it again

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The one in the second picture is a spare connector with pigtail. Tomorrow I plan to open up the steering column and see if I can find the SWC module and the green data wire.

 

If I go to a different radio I have the 88-04 GM Scosche adapter and will create a stub harness. But first I need to get the stock harness reconstructed.

 

The only one I am not certain about is that green/white stripe in 16. Radio says it is a ground but not that color. OTOH 16 is not present on the Scoshe so won't worry about it.

Edited by Padgett
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The SWRC module is down under the dash.  It's near the column.  It's a small, clear rectangular box with a small connector in the end of it.

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Found the clear SWC module. Also found a PAC SWI-X under the glove box and connected to the green data wire. Am slowly making sense out of the mess.

 

post-9662-0-54733900-1458007523_thumb.jpg

 

So far have removed the Kenwood Head unit, JVC changer and control box, Pioneer Subwoofer set and controls, PAC SWI-X, and a whole bunch of monster cables.

 

Tomorrow I'll try to get what is extraneous removed and the stock connectors soldered back in. Then see if a stock radio (have one now and a cassette adapter with microphone for HFP that works well in my 88.)  will work with the steering wheel controls.
 

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Tell me about it. Have gotten all of the extraneous wire out of the way and just need one thing before I start rewiring the stock connector (If I add an aftermarket radio, will build a stub adapter) and that is to ring out the second amplifier (UW4) behind the radio cavity & determine if it is working, looks like it is currently being bypassed.

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