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RKE module


Afubar
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I've found the RKE module in my 93 vert and have it appart.  TRW  Model/FCCID: AB00103R,  DOC 218 K681

 

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Here's the inside

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So what am I looking at to solder or anyone know where I can find a new/old one to buy?

Thanks Guys

Kaye

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There used ti be a write up but I cannot find it anymore.

 

Inspect the solder joints on the back of the board for cracks. Most of the time they can be reheated to fix the issue. Sometimes new material may need to be added.

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Your second picture is the part that will need to be soldered.

 

Carefully look for cracked solder joints. Those are damaged and will cause the RKE not to function.

 

I fixed the one on my convertible a few years back and it still works great.

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Well, I've gone over this thing with a magnifying glass, the only area I see that may be suspect is this where I have the red circle.  Sorry the pict is not that great, had trouble zooming in.  The area I circled has a very slight discoloration right at the point of the existing solder.  What do you think?

 

 

 

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OK, it took some digging around but I knew I had this info somewhere. I hope this answers all of your questions.

 

  • Repair for non-functional keyless entry
     
     
    Keyless Entry: Repair for non-functional keyless entry
    Write up done by: GnatGoSplat

    Sometimes the keyless entry system just doesn't work. When you press any button on the remote transmitter, nothing happens. In some cases, the keyless entry system works intermittently, but in others, not at all.

    Before you attempt any repairs, verify that it is the receiver that is bad, and not the remote transmitter. If you have a spare transmitter that always worked, but now it also doesn't, then chances are, the receiver is bad. However, it would be a good idea to replace the batteries and clean the electrical contacts in the transmitter. If the keyless entry still doesn't work, one way to tell for sure if the receiver is bad, is by grounding the programming wire in the trunk. If it's working, it should lock and unlock your doors within 1-2 seconds. If it does nothing, your receiver is bad for sure. However, it can still do the lock/unlock thing and still be bad!

    The cause of all your problems? Teeny tiny cracks on the soldered joints on the circuit board inside the keyless entry receiver. I believe they were not soldered all that well to begin with, and temperature variations over the years eventually caused them to crack. I think the cracks occur mainly on the solder joints of IC's (chips).

    Repairing your keyless entry receiver yourself is cheap & easy. If you have the tools, it's pretty much a FREE repair. The hardest part is getting the keyless entry receiver out of the car and then putting it back in (okay, that part is rather tricky). Read on to learn how to repair it yourself.

    Tools Required:

    * Pencil tip soldering iron
    * 60/40 tin/lead solder
    * Lacquer thinner (available anywhere paint is sold, Wal-Mart, etc)
    * Small flat head screwdriver

    Repair Instructions:

    Here are my instructions for fixing your keyless entry yourself. It's actually quite a simple job and the tools to fix it don't cost much at all either. Clicking on any picture will let you view a larger version.

    1. Remove the keyless entry receiver from the car.
    To remove the receiver:
    1. Remove lower seat cushions by removing a bolt from bottom of each seat cushion(s) (2 bolts on a rear bench seat).
    2. Remove upper seat back(s) by removing nuts at bottom of the seatbacks and then lifting upwards to disengage.
    3. Remove upper 1/4 panel trim by using a trim panel remover. Remove any courtesy light(s) that may be installed on them. Use care not to apply too much force to plastic trim.
    4. Some cars may require removal of lower/side 1/4 trim panel, they are usually snapped in. Use a trim panel remover.
    5. Remove two plastic trim panel fasteners from front of rear package shelf trim panel. Use a trim panel tool.
    6. Locate keyless entry receiver module, it should be on the right (passenger) side near the speaker. It is a black plastic box with 8-wires going to it.
    7. Remove two plastic rivets holding receiver module to rear package shelf.
    8. Disconnect wire harness from receiver module.
    keyless-rx1.jpg

    2. Remove the top cover from the Keyless Entry Receiver module. The receiver case is snapped together. There are 6 slots on top and the protruding tabs on the lid snap into them. I used a flathead screwdriver and gently worked all the tabs out of the slots. You have to do both sides. I discovered you can't just do one side and then lift up, because there are two plastic guides that go straight down, so pretty much the lid needs to be removed by lifting straight up
    Opened Receiver Module
    3. Pull out the circuit boards by pushing out on the sides of the module near the end with the connector to disengage the snaps. While pushing out on the sides, lift up the black plastic piece that forms the panel with the connector. The circuit boards will come out with this piece.
    4. The circuit boards are coated with a clear, shiny, rubbery coating. This coating must be removed before soldering. Use lacquer thinner to clean off this coating. I poured lacquer thinner on the circuit boards, let it set a few minutes, and then took an old tooth brush and brushed off the coating. Repeat until the circuit boards are completely clean.
    These areas should be resoldered.
    keyless-rx2.jpg
    5. Resolder the pins of the IC's on the larger circuit board. I believe the 14-pin IC near the edge of the circuit board is the one that has the cracked soldered joints, but for best results, I would go ahead and resolder ALL the IC's on both the larger circuit board and also the smaller one. You might also go ahead and resolder all the solder joints if you have the time. Can't hurt.
    6. Plug in the connector and verify that the keyless entry receiver is working.
    7. If your keyless entry is still not working, try grounding the programming wire and reprogram your remotes.
    This article was originally published in forum thread: Repair for non-functional keyless entry started by White93z34 View original post
    1. Categories:
    2.  
    3. D.I.Y,
    4.  
    5. Interior Electrical
Edited by 94 olds vert
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You really should do it. The hardest part is removing it from under the package tray.

Soldering shouldn't be too bad, did the cluster a while ago. My locks need lubed anyway so I've been being lazy
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Okay, 94 olds vert and all others, you all are positively the cats meow. None ranked higher in my opinion.

 

 

IT WORKED!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Thank You, Thank You! If this old lady can do it with your all's help, anyone can.

 

 

Thank You one and all

 

 

Kaye

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  • 6 months later...

Drivers side door on my 92 Oldsmobile cutlass supreme international was not unlocking with the remote. Other doors and trunk worked fine. Wiring diagrams indicate that the drivers side door is on its own relay. I opened the RKE and found the relay was not working. My unit has the barrel shaped open mechanical relays like the picture above. Ordered a new 30 amp 5 pin relay and wiring harness to wire it into the board. Hopefully I will be able to stop using my key by next week!

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Drivers side door on my 92 Oldsmobile cutlass supreme international was not unlocking with the remote. Other doors and trunk worked fine. Wiring diagrams indicate that the drivers side door is on its own relay. I opened the RKE and found the relay was not working. My unit has the barrel shaped open mechanical relays like the picture above. Ordered a new 30 amp 5 pin relay and wiring harness to wire it into the board. Hopefully I will be able to stop using my key by next week!

 

This seems to be very common. I have re-soldered 4 completely dead modules and 3 of them regained all functions except that driver door unlock. Only one has worked 100%.

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  • 5 years later...

Thanks everyone for posting the procedure for repairing the receiver. Just followed this procedure for my 1992 Buick Regal Gran Sport. Worked like a charm. I did add a little new solder to the existing solder joints on the chips in addition to reheating. If I have any troubles in the future, I will use a solder sucker to remove existing solder then will replace with fresh solder. 

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