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ABS problem or electrical problem


EMNCFI
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Ok, first off I searched for this topic for about 2 hours already, and need to find an answer, so new thread time. On my way to work today, after washing, polishing and waxing the TGP yesterday, I got an anti lock light on the dash, I have a newer accumulator, GM part about 2 years old (install at least). The anti lock light stays on constantly, and when I apply the brakes, I get the fasten belts light to come dimly on while pressing the pedal. Once at work, I shut off the car and re-started it, with the same problem. With the car in park, I pressed the brake pedal numerious times, every third press the Powermaster pump came on, which seems to be a good sign. At this point unless someone has experience with this, these are my thoughts:

1. washing the car got water into one of the wheel sensors for the abs, and having problems now

2. fuse to ABS blew?

3. ground somewhere is bad

 

or something else?

 

talk amongst yourselves

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1. chip could be bad.

 

2. ground is likely corroded.

 

2.5. can you re-flash the chip? or maybe reset the ecm after cleaning the grounds and filing the terminals?

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I could try that, I am running the stock chip now with a Jeff M top gun sitting in the garage. I think and just think here, that its a ground thing, maybe got some water on some bare metal and got some surface rust. A while back the battery had a major leak, and about a month ago I went to a Red top optima so no more leaks, but when I get back from Eugene tomorrow, I will check the grounds, it did it on the way to the airport today

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you need to send that memcal to Adam and have him make sure it has the right chip soldered in it. it should be a black Atmel chip. then we can burn the Top Gun file or anything we want on it.

 

I got a chip burner here.

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weird, doesn't make sense that the grounds being bad would make the brake lights not work AND the PM3 unless it was the transmission bolt grounds all came disconnected or some other main grounds from the block. I wouldn't doubt it, but in that case the car would likely not run either.

 

but the pm3 grounds to the body by the "key wire" body ground from the block with a tiny nut on a stud. next to the battery tray.

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Looking at the thread... I don't see how the EPROM could affect ABS, PMIII is on a separate computer under the passenger seat.

 

The fasten belts lamp... I'd be more inclined to think it to be a instrument cluster issue more then anything else, those clusters do weird things... have any other ones to try out?

 

Do you know anyone who has a tech1 or equivalent to read back ABS codes? That is my first stop in diagnosing PMIII

 

To be clear you DO have brakes at present?

 

Make sure the brakelamp switch is operating right, PMIII observes brake pedal operation.

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I did take a quick look at it tonight before it got kicked out of the garage for my wifes supercharged Grand Am (yes grand am, yes supercharged) the fuse for the rear lights was blown, not sure why that would happen, but if its connected to the PM III that might just be the cause of the ABS light, but still wondering why the brake lights fuse (glove box 15 A one) would blow the way it did

 

missed that last part, yes I do have brakes, they work fine as normal, pump comes on every three presses, and stop the car fine. If it comes down to it I have a second PM III rebuilt in my garage as a spare

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voltage dips. and most definately be caused by the eprom. thats exactly how it has played out on every single tgp I have ever seen.

 

what you get for running a 22 year old tune with 22 year old wiring.

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I think I might put the top gun back in then, as for today, the ABS problem is solved. I cleaned up all the grounds, and found the bad vac line that was keeping my vents and cruise from working, so now again I have abs, cruise and vents. Was a good day for the old TGP

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top gun won't fix the couple things I had in mind but I had better 0-60 times with it. well, I never timed it with a stock chip, but with top gun and nothing else, I did a 6.6 second 0-60.

 

I had a pump blowing fuses at one point, I noticed the red clear top fuse under the hood vents can get moisture in them and corrode it over time. but wiring does not always fix it if the pump is worn too bad. I think the fuse blew a few times before I could really fix up the voltage situation and ended up with a different PM3. I got a pile of broken ones here. the pump can be swapped out but that never has worked for me, for very long at least.

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