iTurbo Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 I'm attempting to do some diagnostics on the '98 Regal GS using an iPod Touch, PLX Kiwi Wifi, and the DashCommand app. Upon starting the car, the "Service Vehicle Soon" and ABS dummy lights come on. The "Trac off" light is always lit and sometimes (but not always) the red "Brake" light comes on too. I hooked up the Kiwi Wifi and checked the codes with DashCommand thinking that for sure I would get some fault codes but nothing comes up at all. Then I realized that the "Service Engine Soon" light does not come on, so I believe the "SVS" light is associated with a problem in the anti-lock brake system. Can anybody confirm? The brakes on the car seem to work great. They are upgraded with larger '04 Impala SS calipers and pads but I believe that is it. Just not sure how to further diagnose what is wrong as the DashCommand app does not give any info regarding the ABS system. Was hoping there would be PIDs in DashCommand that would let me log/view the individual wheel speed sensors at the very least but no dice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iTurbo Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 I just did a quick search and from the sounds of it there is some sort of special code reader just for the ABS system. Is this something that a parts store like Oreillys would have for sale? Does it plug into the OBDII port or somewhere else? You'll have to forgive my ignorance here as I'm used to working on 80s cars without ABS systems for the most part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 They may have it. It will plug into the obd-ii port. The package will say ABS code reader right on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Its most likely a wheel bearing (Wheel speed sensor) problem... I just replaced my drivers side and two weeks later the lights (all three are because of one code) came back on and its the right front wheel bearing now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Its most likely a wheel bearing (Wheel speed sensor) problem... I just replaced my drivers side and two weeks later the lights (all three are because of one code) came back on and its the right front wheel bearing now Yeah, can pretty much guarantee it's a wheel speed sensor on a 2nd gen. Service Engine Soon = powertrain problem, Service Vehicle Soon = everything else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iTurbo Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Thanks for the info help! Will try to get an ABS code reader today and will post what I find. I hope it's not a wheel bearing because they are relatively new. The entire suspension/brakes/chassis was rebuilt on this car about three years ago and has only had a few thousand miles put on it since then. My memory is a bit foggy but I think about the time it started the brakes were doing this wierd pulsing thing almost like a warped rotor feeling, but then that went away and all the dummy lights have been on ever since. Also really surprised I can't find an app in the AppStore that can access the ABS info from the OBDII serial port. At least I can't find one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 A REAL scan tool eliminates the problems encountered when using consumer-grade "junk" scan devices/code readers. Your vehicle fits into the model year range covered by the scanner listed here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127858 PM me for more details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 The snap on one Schurkey? If he doesnt post interest, I might be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 While I agree that a quality scan-tool is an excellent piece of equipment, what is wrong with a cheaper code reader, whether it is a stand-alone one, or an app on a smart phone? They're only designed to do so much, and most of them work just fine in my experiences. The only thing junky is that they may not have all capabilities of a multi-thousand dollar scan tool. EDit: To agree with others, the SVS is indeed typically for Body and Chassis codes (Bxxx and Cxxx) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iTurbo Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Thanks for the clarification on SES vs SVS. I had no idea there was both until I watched the cluster on startup when it momentarily lights up everything. On the scanner, I have been looking for something to replace my aging OTC 4000E (pre OBDII), but it would need to work with 80s and early 90s Chrysler/Dodge vehicles, plus it looks like I need OBDII ABS compatibility as well. I can't really afford it right now anyway, so if you want it Al, go for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iTurbo Posted May 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 I got the ABS fixed today. I went to Oreillys and they let me borrow one of their Innova scanners. This one was a little better than most I've seen and had ABS functionality. I checked the ABS DTC and had nine faults! Most pointed to a problem with the right front wheel speed sensor and a short or open circuit. I wrote them all down while at Oreillys and went home and put the front of the car on jackstands and started looking at the wiring for the wheel speed sensor. Within about 30 seconds I find one of the wires about 3" away from the sensor itself was so corroded that it was broken. Soldered it back together and used some heat shrink and retaped with a bit of friction tape. FINALLY no more dummy lights! All four (SVS, ABS, TRAC OFF, and BRAKE) haven't come back on since and the ABS and traction control are finally operational again! Thanks for the help and suggestions everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 I have the exact same problem, if I could solder, it would be fixed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 I have the exact same problem, if I could solder, it would be fixed It's easy as hell, and in the meantime, twisting the wire back together would achieve the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 I find one of the wires about 3" away from the sensor itself was so corroded that it was broken. Soldered it back together and used some heat shrink and retaped with a bit of friction tape. When that was me, about two or three years ago, the wire was corroded green almost the entire way inside the engine compartment. I had to cut the wire back well over a foot--more like 18 inches--before I found copper-colored wire. The solder won't stick to green wire. As long as the wire you connected to was in good condition, you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iTurbo Posted May 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Yup I noticed the same. I only had to replace about three inches of the wire past where the insulation had broken to find decent copper though. I used some copper flux paste and the acid in that helped a bit too. I did notice that Oreillys sells the pigtails for the wheel speed sensor as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Yup I noticed the same. I only had to replace about three inches of the wire past where the insulation had broken to find decent copper though. I used some copper flux paste and the acid in that helped a bit too. I did notice that Oreillys sells the pigtails for the wheel speed sensor as well. Pull it back apart--now--because acid-core flux is for copper plumbing, not copper wiring. The acid will corrode the wires. Next time, use ROSIN-CORE flux, or a separate ROSIN flux on solid solder. I used a Delco pigtail on mine. I forget the part number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iTurbo Posted May 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Thanks for the tip. I'll probably pull it apart tonight and just install a new pigtail with the correct rosin core solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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