Upper Heater Hose/ Pipe Replcement

[TheCapt]

Hello All,

 

This is my first time back to W-Body since I sold my Monte a few years back . Everybody was very knowledgeable then, so I'm hoping I can get help with a problem my brother is having.

 

He has a 1993 Olds Cutlass Supreme. His low coolant light came on the other day and upon investigation I noticed the line that comes off the top of the water pump and runs along the bottom passenger side of the engine, then up to the heater core is leaking right under the coolant overflow. The issue is it starts rubber hose, then turns to metal where it goes around the engine, then back to rubber at the other end. The metal pipe looks like it is rusted all the way through under the coolant overflow.

 

My question is, do I need to replace this with the rubber/ metal hose like it has now, or can I just use rubber hose and run to the heater core? It looks like a decent size job to change the metal hose, and I have had no luck finding it available at local auto parts stores. I hate to buy one from the junkyard if they are prone to rust.

 

What do you think?

[white4d96]

I haven't personally experienced this problem but maybe you could get a junkyard one and epoxy coat it to prevent it from rusting? Give it a bunch of decently thick coats or something like that?

[White93z34]

if its a 3.1 NAPA carries them, they list it for a 91-93 w body.

[mra32]

I had this problem. I think i created it myself when i was monkeying on the pipe bypassing/replacing the heater core. It was leaking at the mounting tab, but it was already rusty. What I ended up doing is getting a 6' section of heater hose for like $7 from Pep Boys and replaced it. I also got some hose clamps to attach it. The size on the heater core end is a little smaller than the water pump end, but tightening the hose clamp a bunch has left me leak free. I think I needed like a little over 5 feet of hose. I also zip tied it into place since the hose obviously has no mounting tabs.

[TheCapt]

I haven't personally experienced this problem but maybe you could get a junkyard one and epoxy coat it to prevent it from rusting? Give it a bunch of decently thick coats or something like that?

 

I was thinking that...I wonder if that hose is going to be different on all modles, or if their is another model I could take a hose from if I could not find a Cutlass?

 

Right now it's a somewhat slow leak, and he is just adding water/ coolant as needed. I know it's bad for the enviroment, but if I need to take the intake off to replace this one hose, he may just go through the winter like this and I'll fix it when it's warm. It sucks not having a garage...or driveway for that matter.

Edited November 24, 2010 by TheCapt

[TheCapt]

if its a 3.1 NAPA carries them, they list it for a 91-93 w body.

 

I'll take a look, I think I have a NAPA a few towns over. Thanks!

[mra32]

What engine is this? If you have to take the intake off to replace the hose, then its not the same one I'm talking about

[TheCapt]

What engine is this? If you have to take the intake off to replace the hose, then its not the same one I'm talking about

 

It's the 3.1

 

I've only gathered snippets of info from the internet about this, so I honestly do not know if I need to take the intake off. It looked like it could be easier to get to if I tilted the engine like you do to change the plugs.

[White93z34]

I don't think you should have to, if you rock the engine forward it should give you enough clearance. Getting at the fitting at the firewall may be a ballache though.

 

Edit: here is a picture of how it looks without a engine in the car if that helps at all

Edited November 24, 2010 by White93z34

[TheCapt]

I don't think you should have to, if you rock the engine forward it should give you enough clearance. Getting at the fitting at the firewall may be a ballache though.

 

Yeah, that is what I am worried about. It wouldn't be a fun job if I didn't break a plastic vacuum line trying to get to this.

[mra32]

 

This is the hose i was talking about. I dont think i rocked the engine to replace, just moved the coolant overflow tank out of the way. I could have rocked the engine, I dont even consider that something to worry about since its frequently the first step in my repairs. 2 bolts and then i just push on the tire and stick a chock behind it.

[TheCapt]

 

This is the hose i was talking about. I dont think i rocked the engine to replace, just moved the coolant overflow tank out of the way. I could have rocked the engine, I dont even consider that something to worry about since its frequently the first step in my repairs. 2 bolts and then i just push on the tire and stick a chock behind it.

 

I didn't mind doing it in my Monte, it had the 3100 so no plastic lines to worry about...this older 3.1 had a lot of creaking and crunching when I rocked it for the tune-up, so it frightens me a little. Mainly since it's not my car.

 

Thanks a lot for that picture, it makes it look too easy. I guess since it just slips on the heater core, it should be an easy job. I was worried about a threaded fitting. And it's good to see that mess of wires simply unplugs from the firewall, since the pipe is routed behind it.

 

This helped a lot!

[slick]

I think about everyone I know just replaces it with hose.

[w-bodys_are_the_best]

On my Z24, it is very similar, but goes back down to the bottom ot the firewall in the middle into the PITA J heater cores. I just ziptied heater hose to the heater pipe to bypass the heater core until I replaced it. I re-used the heater pipe once it was replaced, but though it would be a major PITA to replace the heater pipe if I ever had to, although the W's should have more room than the J's. I would probably just use heater hose depending on the condition of the bolts. If the bolts are ver rusty make sure you soak them heavily in PB blaster or they will more than likely snap off. That area and those bolts are very prone to corrosion, especially since they go through to the wheel well area.

[mra32]

On my Z24, it is very similar, but goes back down to the bottom ot the firewall in the middle into the PITA J heater cores. I just ziptied heater hose to the heater pipe to bypass the heater core until I replaced it. I re-used the heater pipe once it was replaced, but though it would be a major PITA to replace the heater pipe if I ever had to, although the W's should have more room than the J's. I would probably just use heater hose depending on the condition of the bolts. If the bolts are ver rusty make sure you soak them heavily in PB blaster or they will more than likely snap off. That area and those bolts are very prone to corrosion, especially since they go through to the wheel well area.

 

It is held on with those little studs that come out of the body and then you put the stamped steel sheet metal nuts on them which have the 10mm hex and wide flange. They arent too robust, but ive never seen a rusty one.

[GOT2B GM]

In all honesty, the same thing happened on my old 91 International, and I just cut out this section of pipe, and clamped in a piece of heater hose. Just be sure to ziptie the heater hose back away from the A/C compressor and crank pulley.

 

 

Chris' (White93z34) way is definately the proper fix, but this works just the same.

[mra32]

Thats a good idea. I think I was in for the quick and dirty solution becuase I was in the midst of my year of coolant leaks

[pitzel]

Its not that bad of a repair. Biggest trouble for me was finding an allen key that fit that harness connector which obviously has to be removed. The rest is pretty self-evident. Can't say I'm a huge fan of seeing "made in China" on the Dorman assembly that I bought to replace the whole thing, but it works and was cheap!