94vertluvr Posted November 1, 2010 Report Share Posted November 1, 2010 Here's what it is: 94 3.4L Cutlass; 4T60E Here's what it is doing: It cuts out or theres a slight pulse and then followed by engine speed; happens mostly around 2k to 3k rpm while accelerating Also, the tranny is still jerking from P to R and from R to D with some slight hard shifting of other gears; noticed mostly when the car is cold because when it's been heated and you shift thru you do not notice it hardly at all if at all! Here's what I've done: Replaced all fluids including tranny w/a new filter; this is a newly installed engine(supposedly has around 82k miles off another 94 cutlass i was told); the mechanic put in all new gaskets when he installed the engine; compression was checked at around 165 - 170 in all cylinders except #5 had around 150 to 155 - I put in all new AC DELCO platinum plugs and a new wire set. That #5 plug has some carbon on it - the rest were burning clean. I replaced all the coils yesterday; replaced the throttle position sensor; replaced fuel filter, mobile 1 synthetic oil; oh and new alternator AND I've been using super unleaded fuel. This is driving me freaking nuts until I get it running right!! I have another 94 3.1 that runs absolutely fabulous compared to this!!! I spent nearly $200 on this car just over the weekend to try and fix this but i've only seen a little improvement. At this point the funds are drying up and I need to try to limit my parts to what actually NEEDS to be replaced!!! Thanks for the help in advance guys n gals!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted November 1, 2010 Report Share Posted November 1, 2010 are you sure the trans vacuum line is connected to the modulator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted November 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2010 Well! I'm glad you asked that...it was in the modulator but apparently as I just found out that when I was putting the air cleaner assembly back in yesterday that hard rigid pipe/vacuum line apparently broke so this apparently has something to do with the shifting issue I'm sure!!! Are rubber lines as good as these hard ones?? I seem to have more trouble with these damn hard vacuum lines than anything else. thanks for the prompting! Any ideas on the other? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted November 1, 2010 Report Share Posted November 1, 2010 yeah if you patch it up with some rubber vacuum line you should be fine. Id replace the entire thing eventually though. If that is not connected the car will sure as hell clunk going into gear, reverse especially. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted November 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2010 (edited) OK...thanks that fixed the shifting issues, not sure how it got broke but it did; spliced it together with good ole rubber! Still have the issue with the miss/pulsing of the engine so I took it by a garage today and the guy drove it and says that it feels like to him the exhaust is clogged; I had already cut off the cat; so he recommended i loosen the exhaust and see if that makes a difference; so that is my next plan of attack...just wondering if the bolts will be as seized as on the older vehicles of the 60's that I tried to removed the exhaust from and ended up cutting it off! ALSO - Question: i have a haynes manual along with a complete set of 1995 W Service Manuals; keeping in mind my car is a 1994 3.4L. Referencing the coil line up; my coils were - 1,4,6,3,2,5 which matches the Haynes manual; BUT the service manual said they should be 1,4,3,6,2,5; MY QUESTION THEN - Why would they be different and has anyone else noticed this??? I'm quite certain the the firing order needs to be right in order for it to run right. Can anyone shed any light on this at all??? Thanks! Edited November 1, 2010 by 94vertluvr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted November 1, 2010 Report Share Posted November 1, 2010 Service manual has a mistake in it, all 1994 manuals are like this i found out... Recheck compression on no.5. Loosen spark plug one full turn and run the car. Recheck compression and see if it comes up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted November 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2010 (edited) So do I loosen the plug; put the wire back on it; run it n then shut it off; then check compression? Sorry, I'm feeling my way around these things...thanks for the reply! Service manual has a mistake in it, all 1994 manuals are like this i found out... Recheck compression on no.5. Loosen spark plug one full turn and run the car. Recheck compression and see if it comes up. Edited November 1, 2010 by 94vertluvr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted November 1, 2010 Report Share Posted November 1, 2010 Loosen the plug one full turn and then run it (wire on or off) for about 30 seconds and recheck compression. What this can do is blow out any bits of carbon that may be stuck to the valve keeping it slightly open and thus giving a lower compression reading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted November 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2010 ok...i see i will try that tomorrow and report it back...so if the reading goes up then? Is it ok and if it stays the same? Oh and btw I did put in Seafoam into the intake earlier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted November 1, 2010 Report Share Posted November 1, 2010 If it doesn't come up, run a can of Seafoam through the engine. I'm betting there's a sticky valve causing your miss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted November 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 i ran about 6 oz of seafoam thru it a week or so ago; should I run a whole can thru the intake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virtuetovice Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 The firing order isn't printed under the hood on the newer Cutty's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 No... A half can should be fine... Did you let it sit and soak or did you just leave the car running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted November 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 i let it sit for like 5 or 10 mins then restarted it and let it run smoking and all. Should I have let it sit longer? Someone else suggested it might be a sticky valve or something...could that be why the carbon fouling on that plug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted November 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 it might be, since I had the books i was just trying to go by what they said...little did i know I'd get 2 freaking different answers!! Talk about confusing to a nonmechanic!! I will tell you that I switched out the 6 and 3 to what the service manual said and it ran but like a POS!!! BUT I am learning quickly!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 No that's a perfect amount of time... But maybe one of the injectors aren't spraying enough fuel in there and your getting a slight misfire on cylinder 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted November 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 Oh, Ok i guess I didn't even think about it possibly being an injector...maybe i need to have a test done on it...have you tried it before Al? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 Well you can ohm check it but I am not really sure how you can test the flow without pulling a bunch of crap off... I think I need to see what's happening over just reading... Can you maybe post a video? I am not really understanding what's actually happening with the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted November 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 Al it would be kind of hard to video that because it's more a sensation, a feel you get while driving it. It happens mostly from 2k to 3k rpms while accelerating, especially noticeable when the car is cold when first driving it during the day and after it's sat awhile. It has a slight miss to it, the acceleration is not completely smooth while it's shifting from say 2nd to 3rd gear; you feel a lull in the power at that point and first thing in the morning it can almost be called a cut out that it's pretty obvious. I have 2 verts; this 3.4 and a 3.1 and I have to tell you the 3.1 would probably kick the 3.4's ass and I know that is not suppose to be. I think that's why a shop today suggested a clogged exhaust...he said the resonator was very hot...i think in the morning i'm going to go by a muffler shop and have it cut off...I've already cut the cat off. The cat was definitely clogging the power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted November 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 Al is the fuel intake system/injectors so internal that you could not take it apart to see/test their flow rate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 No they are right under the intake but to take the intake off you have to take the airbox out and the throttle body off and things like that... Its been a while since I worked on my 3.4 that I had... You can see the rail on the passenger side of the engine bay sticking out a bit where you can check for fuel pressure... I just remember when I pulled my intake off it was a pain... And is cylinder 5 on the back of the motor or front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 back of the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted November 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 #5 is in the back on the far right...so even with the intake off the car will run? From that point is there a guide to test the injectors that you know of? Thanks for the help Al! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted November 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 I don't know if this helps either, but most of the time it will crank up in a few seconds like normal but then there are times when it may take 10 or 15 seconds to crank up...not sure if it's related or not...could this be a timing thing? It is pretty intermittent though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 sounds like the ignition module to me... I had a faulty one cause similar problems of cutting out and stumbling on occasion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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