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Need opinions for further decision...


alec_b
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So I've got a mental picture laid out for what I want to do for the stereo in the Regal. I plan on actually KEEPING this car for more than 6 months, which for me is incredibly rare, and I spend a lot of time in the car. I need a good stereo and I want to do it right in this one. Here's what I've got laid out so far:

 

Headunit: Still up in the air. I like Alpine products, and I've had very good luck with them. I've had 3 different Alpine units and loved them all. A requirement here is: 4 volt pre-out. I won't settle for anything less.

 

4 channel amp- Still undecided, but leaning towards something from rockford or kicker. Looking for around 75-100 watts into 4 channels @ 2 ohm load. Yes, 2 ohm. Read further for reasoning.

 

Front speakers: Stock location (door) 5.25 component set. Debating on whether to mount the tweeters in the stock location in the door or relocate to the factory dash location, which would be better for sound focusing and dispersion. I've pretty much settled for Infinity Reference components here, I've compared speakers for hours in the store, from varying distances and angles to help simulate a vehicle as best I can. The references are my hands down favorite. Also, they're sold with a 2-ohm load, which is why I'm looking for the 2-ohm ratings on my 4-ch.

 

Rear speakers: Stock location. Mostly for rear mid-bass fill, but something with a wide enough frequency range for the rear passengers to somewhat enjoy the ride. Going with matching reference co-axials, not sure if I'm doing 2 or 3-way yet, I've listened to both and honestly can't tell the difference, other than MAYBE slightly brighter highs.

 

Here's where I'm kind of stuck: subs and mono amp. I'd pretty much settled on using 2 12" Alpine Type-R's, in a ported tuned box. Problem: box size. The 1st gen trunks are pretty shallow, and don't have much of an opening. A properly sized and built box made to spec. for those Alpine's would be large, to say the least. I though about using 2 individual 12" boxes, but again I run into space problems.

 

I was thinking today that hey, why don't I use the same power to push one LARGER sub than to smaller ones? Then the box options open up because I only need airspace for one, which I can increase because I don't have to split space between 2 subs. My first obvious choice for this was a 15" Kicker L7. 1000 watts RMS, exactly what I plan to run, and because it's square and a 15" it makes up for some of the surface area lost by using only one sub.

 

I just don't know if I'll lose too much sound quality with the 15. I've personally never owned a 15" sub, just 10's and 12's. Honestly I'm going for more sound level than quality, but not totally so. I'm going to be using a Hifonics Hfi1505 amp, putting out 1000 rms @ 2 ohm's. Well that or an Alpine MRP-M1000 but that's a fucking expensive amp.

 

I won't say which way I'm leaning yet, I want to see what others say first to confirm or deny my own suspicions.

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Why does it feel like almost all of your car audio products are picked off the shelf at a best buy? No offense but there are much better brands that come at a lower price for the quality you're getting than a chain store name brand. With some of these name brands, you pay a LOT for just the name. Kicker comes to mind. Their square subs are horribly inefficient compared to round subs and you could spend that money much more wisely and get a lot more bang for your buck going with a different brand sub.

 

I have an Alpine R12 in a ported box. Not entirely impressed. I also have a 15" Hifonics 1600W RMS sub in my Regal. Custom built box, 3.5 cubic feet, tuned to ~31hz.

 

As for head units, I would go with a JVC or Pioneer. Haven't heard too many good things about Alpine units, but if you're planning on a 4 way and a mono amp, just make sure you have 3 preouts. It will make your life easier.

 

Look again a the components. "These Infinity speakers use a low-impedance design that optimizes power output — the speakers and speaker wire combine for an actual 4-ohm load so you get the best possible performance." Sounds to me like you could use a 4 ohm amp. In either case, I have heard them and they sound decent, but they weren't as great as the PolkAudios I ended up getting. I use PolkAudio DB5250's. I would have a look at these and seriously consider them (read the reviews):

 

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB5251-5-25-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0PFA0

 

And the matching rears:

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-9-Inch-Speakers-Silver/dp/B000P0R6KW

 

Why do I suggest these? Because I own a set of the previous models and they get painfully loud, while being pleasantly crisp and clear. The rear 6x9's particularly are not built for bass, nor are the fronts. These are intended to be used with a subwoofer. Speaking of which, you don't need bass in the 6x9's anyway if you're running a sub.

 

I would stick with the Hifonics amp. I've owned two and they're rock solid stable and reliable under the heaviest loads I could push through them. I currently have a bxi1610D 1600W @ 1 ohm. Alpine will be more expensive simply because of the name. At least, that's how its been in my experience. Try to stay away from name brands that you'll pick off the store shelf unless you're getting an employee discount somewhere. Kicker is one brand I wouldn't buy anything from simply because of the inflated price.

 

If you lived nearby, I'd let you hear what my car sounds like so you could see what I'm talking about.

Edited by xtremerevolution
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Carputer... nuf said

 

How did you manage the preouts for the carputer, in order to fade front to rear, and manually adjust bass for only the sub?

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How did you manage the preouts for the carputer, in order to fade front to rear, and manually adjust bass for only the sub?

 

I have no sub, just 4-channel amp for the highs. I can control L/R through Centrafuse but F/R is controlled by the gain at the moment. Once I get a better mobo or just learn to setup the outputs from the mobo, F/R will be controlled though the computer as well using the software for the onboard audio.

 

Im not too worried about the sound control right now as my speakers suck (stock, sorta)

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I have no sub, just 4-channel amp for the highs. I can control L/R through Centrafuse but F/R is controlled by the gain at the moment. Once I get a better mobo or just learn to setup the outputs from the mobo, F/R will be controlled though the computer as well using the software for the onboard audio.

 

Im not too worried about the sound control right now as my speakers suck (stock, sorta)

 

What display did you end up using? How much did you pick it up for? I'm kind of interested for a purpose other than audio.

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Lilliput 8" widescreen VGA touchscreen. Appx $250

 

Freakin hell. I've seen those around and I never understood the asinine price tags. 2 years ago you could buy an EEE PC 7" or 9" for under $300, for the WHOLE netbook brand new.

 

You can get one hell of a head unit for $250. Granted, the screen probably is touchscreen, but that's beside the point. Still very expensive.

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They are super nice units and are very reliable. My last one used a Hitachi screen, this one uses a Samsung IIRC, so they use quality screens in them

 

 

Of course I bought mine brand new for $100

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Thanks for all the info xtreme. I really like the setup in your car, although I probably won't go with kenwood amps. I've had really BAD luck with everything from them, and they're overrated to boot.

 

I've listened to several different polk audio options, and they're too warm for me. I want BRIGHT highs, and the polks don't deliver. Nor do alpines, rockfords, or even diamonds. Infinity's are the only brand that sound really "good" to my ears, that's why I plan on going with those.

 

As far as the chain store choices, yes I know these are all things I can walk into the store and buy, but believe me that is NOT the case. I've been browsing onlinecarstereo.com and just ordered 2 12" Type-r's for a friend of mine from them. I plan on getting all of my things there as well.

 

What would you recommend for a sub that will take 1000 rms, and be as loud as a 15" L7? I realize square subs aren't great for SQL, but like I originally posted I'm going for more SPL than SQL, and L7's are basically made just for that. With a correctly made box, it'll sound good. I can get a 15" for $289, if you have other ideas of what may give me what I'm looking for at that price please let me know, I'm always interested in finding something bigger and better.

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Thanks for all the info xtreme. I really like the setup in your car, although I probably won't go with kenwood amps. I've had really BAD luck with everything from them, and they're overrated to boot.

 

I've listened to several different polk audio options, and they're too warm for me. I want BRIGHT highs, and the polks don't deliver. Nor do alpines, rockfords, or even diamonds. Infinity's are the only brand that sound really "good" to my ears, that's why I plan on going with those.

 

As far as the chain store choices, yes I know these are all things I can walk into the store and buy, but believe me that is NOT the case. I've been browsing onlinecarstereo.com and just ordered 2 12" Type-r's for a friend of mine from them. I plan on getting all of my things there as well.

 

What would you recommend for a sub that will take 1000 rms, and be as loud as a 15" L7? I realize square subs aren't great for SQL, but like I originally posted I'm going for more SPL than SQL, and L7's are basically made just for that. With a correctly made box, it'll sound good. I can get a 15" for $289, if you have other ideas of what may give me what I'm looking for at that price please let me know, I'm always interested in finding something bigger and better.

 

I know what you mean about bright and warm, so if that's your preference, then that is your best bet.

 

I've talked to many car audio guys who have told me that the two kenwood amps I'm using are practically the best ones that they've ever made, which I guess means they're halfway decent. At their price tag, I suppose that would be true. I obviously didn't pay the full $300 retail.

 

Its not about SQ with the Kicker square subs. Its not even about SPL. Its about the design being inefficient compared to round subs and its just a big joke. You take any kicker square sub with a certain power handling ability (watts), and I will find you a comparably priced round sub with a closely appriximate surface area and power handling ability and it will sound better and louder at the same power level than the Kicker sub. You're talking to the guy who owned a Kicker L5. I know, not as powerful as an L7, but still. It was impressively loud even for what it was, but I honestly thought its replacement, the Alpine R12, sounded better overall. I'm not saying it won't sound good, but you have to ask yourself if something won't sound better.

 

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_24625_Kicker_10CVX152.aspx

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_16856_Kicker_06CVX15-2.aspx

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_14028_Lanzar_OPTI1532D.aspx

 

If I was in the market for a new sub, I'd pick up the last one in a heartbeat.

Edited by xtremerevolution
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I had a 12" CVX running on a Kicker 750.1 about a year ago and wasn't impressed. It was loud, but not like I thought it should have been. Maybe it was my amp but it just didn't sound good.

 

Is that Lanzar actually a decent sub? The Hifonics 1505 will push that great at 1 ohm, IF it can actually handle the power it says.

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I've been reading up on it, and it seems to pound pretty damn hard and live up to its ratings. That's a really long excursion.

 

[video=youtube;_pkPfhu-fyU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pkPfhu-fyU

 

If you read the reviews on onlinecarstereo.com, people are putting down 150dbi+ with a single sub. One guy apparently recorded his at 153.1. That's pretty damn good for under $250. Let me see a 15" Kicker L7 do that. Hell, let me see two 12" Kicker L7's do that. Not gonna happen.

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I would not recommend getting a 15" L7 if you want any semblance of SQ. 15s suck for SQ and so do the Kicker solobarics. Trust me, i had two 12" L5s for a long time. They were LOUD but sound quality was terrible, and they took up alot of room in my trunk. I would go with 1 12" or 2 10" subs in a ported box. I wouldnt recommend Lanzar either, they are pretty much a bargain basment brand like Legacy, Boss, Power Acoustic, etc. The stuff generally sounds ok and is cheap, but they also have a high failure rate and tend to overrate their equipment.

 

As far as headunits go, ive never had Alpine, but they are a pretty good brand from what ive heard. Im a pretty big fan of Pioneer myself. The new DEH-P4200 is a nice unit for a good price.

 

Infinity speakers are good for the price, but they work on 2 ohm OR 4 ohm, so you dont need a amp that is 2 ohm stable. I would for sure go with a component set in the front. Ive done tweeters in the dash as well as ones in the factory location. Both sound good, the downside to putting them in the doors is that you may block some of the sound with your leg, especially if you are on the tall side. Just go with a 2-way in the back, anything other then that is pointless.

 

I would look into Memphis Car Audio if you want some good quality stuff. You will most likely need to find a autorized dealer near you. You wont find much Memphis stuff online except maybe used on ebay, in order to legally sell the brand you must be a authorized dealer. They make great stuff, especially amps. I dont know how much you are looking to spend but Memphis makes a 5 channnel amp, four stereo channels and one mono for the sub.

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I've listened to several different polk audio options, and they're too warm for me. I want BRIGHT highs, and the polks don't deliver. Nor do alpines, rockfords, or even diamonds. Infinity's are the only brand that sound really "good" to my ears, that's why I plan on going with those.

 

Not sure what Polk Audio speakers you listened to, but this review seems to disagree with you.

 

I bought these speakers without listening to them just based on reviews I read in different places from different people. I have not connected them to head unit power or anything other than the system I have set up now so I can't say how they sound straight from the head unit. I am powering them with a 100Wx2 RMS Profile Clarus Amp. I have to say, these are the CLEAREST, CLEANEST, LOUDEST sounding speakers I have ever heard. (I have heard, owned, and installed ALOT of HIGH POWER systems!) Even at full volume these speakers SCREAM with absolutely no distortion. (I am VERY careful not to set the gain to high on the amp to protect these speakers but even with the amp overgained distortion was very hard to notice) I hear every bit of music with incredible accuracy. The only thing I can think to put for these speakers as a weakness is the tweeters. It's not a question of accuracy or clarity as they rate just the same as the woofers. They are however very bright sounding. This is something that I would usually put in as a compliment, but in this case I would say they are to bright, so much so that they give the illusion of almost sounding harsh at times. For all I know it may just be the way my car reflects the high sounds and have nothing to do with the speakers themselves but nonetheless it was a problem. Unhappy with this result, I did some tinkering and found that lowering the treble a bit seemed to remedy this for the most part (Lowering the treble from the head unit caused the back to suffer also so I accomplished this with a 1 ohm 50watt resistor in series with the tweeter) until I finally purchased a set of midranges for the dash which eliminated the need for the resistor, permanently remedied the tweeter problem, and balanced out my system perfectly. If the back speakers had been the same, I'm sure an EQ would have also helped solved this problem. Despite this obstacle though I have to say I am extremely happy with these speakers. I would recommend them to anybody who is looking for extreme clarity without an extreme price tag, would buy them again without so much as a second thought, and am very sorry that I hadn't tried Polk sooner.

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I guess that just goes to show that all ears are different. I really did for the most part like the way they sounded. I guess the tweeters just didn't do it for me. I guess that legacy doesn't seem too bad, I may just give it a shot. I can always replace it later.

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I guess that just goes to show that all ears are different. I really did for the most part like the way they sounded. I guess the tweeters just didn't do it for me. I guess that legacy doesn't seem too bad, I may just give it a shot. I can always replace it later.

 

You also have to consider the way they wired it up, the kind of head unit they used, the kind of amp, and the way the head unit was configured. You often have to configure the EQ settings for each set of speakers.

 

Now if one guy said that these were extremely bright, i can't imagine what yours would sound like.

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Just got 2 Alpine SWR-1222D's from the UPS man today! Going to be installing them in a friends car along with that Hifonics amp I mentioned earlier. Going in a '09 Scion TC. Should be incredible... maybe if they're loud enough I'll just stick with that instead of the 1 15".

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Just got 2 Alpine SWR-1222D's from the UPS man today! Going to be installing them in a friends car along with that Hifonics amp I mentioned earlier. Going in a '09 Scion TC. Should be incredible... maybe if they're loud enough I'll just stick with that instead of the 1 15".

 

Where do you live again?

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Just got 2 Alpine SWR-1222D's from the UPS man today! Going to be installing them in a friends car along with that Hifonics amp I mentioned earlier. Going in a '09 Scion TC. Should be incredible... maybe if they're loud enough I'll just stick with that instead of the 1 15".

That should be loud for sure! Hatchbacks are the best kind of car to get crazy loud bass out of.

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