L67-equipped cars: My car starts and then stalls. Repair inside.

[digitaloutsider]

This writeup covers all L67-equipped second-generation W-bodies. It's written with the Regal and Grand Prix in mind. I have not worked on an L67-equipped Monte Carlo or Impala so I can't vouch for how similar they are (the part is the same, however).

 

If your car is having issues with starting and then stalling within a few seconds, it's very likely that your fuel pump resistor has made it's way out the door. The resistor is used to control speeds on the dual-stage fuel pumps that L67-powered cars are equipped with.

 

The fuel pump speed relay can be temporarily modified to bypass the resistor and run the pump at high speed full time. This is useful for troubleshooting purposes, but should not be used as a fix. It's good enough to test and get you home if you're stranded, but it's a large amount of stress on the fuel pump. To bypass the resistor, do the following:

 

 

If your car starts and stays running, you have determined the problem to be the pump resistor. Head to your local dealer and purchase GM part number 88951182. This is the fuel pump resistor and relocation kit. From the factory, the resistor is located in the passenger side front fender, attached to the frame rail. In the following picture, it is located behind the washer bottle. In the 98+ cars, I recommend just leaving it there and unplugging it. It's not worth the hassle of removing the washer bottle. GM now recommends that the resistor is relocated to the firewall. The relocation kit includes the bracket, a screw and three black zip ties.

 

 

This is the brand new resistor and relocation kit as received from General Motors:

 

 

In the relocation guide included with the kit, GM says to remove the resistor harness from the main engine bay loom and relocate the resistor itself to the firewall. This is a much bigger pain in the ass than just putting it in some other logical place. I've seen people mount it above the battery on the side of the engine bay or go ghetto and zip tie it to holes in the radiator support.

 

I decided to mount it next to the fuse box. GM intends the bracket to be mounted to the firewall and then have the resistor mount to it. I attached mine here and instead used the "mounting bracket" as a shield to prevent things (tools and the like) from striking it and breaking it. I have some Dynamat-like material here (from the factory), so it's not pressed up against hard metal. The screw is in tight enough to keep it from moving around freely. I ran the harness down behind the battery and plugged it in behind the headlight:

 

 

I coated the hole in RTV to prevent any rusting. Anyway, use your imagination. Just find a better place for it than GM did

[Andrew]

nice write-up! how much was the kit ?

[digitaloutsider]

Thanks! I paid $50. GMPD has it for like $35. YMMV.

[AL]

So this is only for L67 cars? My friends Bonneville does the same thing that is mentioned for the cause

[White93z34]

97-00 GS regals and GTPs only IIRC

[digitaloutsider]

1997-2004 L67 equipped Regals use this, so I assume all other L67 powered cars do as well.

[Andrew]

BUMP because i have to order this. Damn car left me stranded on the side of the highway 45 miles from home. Got it towed home, and it started right up. First time she's left me stranded though.

 

Even with it being faulty, you should still hear the fuel pump cycle on with the key on right? Is it possible for the resistor to be an intermittent issue?

Edited February 20, 2011 by Andrew
had to herpa derp

[Addicted to eaton]

not sure. Check it to make sure its your problem. by bending the relay like he said. you pump has two settings, high and low. I think it uses high when starting then goes into low. so it would start right back up but not run for long.

[Andrew]

you might have missed the part where i said once i got it home, it started up fine.

 

But it died on me as i was coming onto the highway, then did the described start and stall. Tried for about 20 minutes before i called for a tow. Wish my phone had internets so i coulda tried the bypass.

 

Im hoping this is the issue and not the pump.

Edited February 20, 2011 by Andrew
i r gud spellar

[Addicted to eaton]

the pump is pretty easy to change and can be had for 30-40 bucks on Club gp.

[Andrew]

i wont buy a used pump, but yeah at least they are easy to swap.

[Addicted to eaton]

i didnt figure u would go used lol.

[Andrew]

Any comments on the Caspers fuel pump rewire kit? It should be about $80 shipped, and has a bypass for the OEM resistor. Im guessing the relay it adds controls the hi/low function?

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=11_37&products_id=674

I know the ZZP kit is cheaper, but it looks poorly done and has received bad reviews, nor does it mention bypassing the resistor.

 

Also the OP diagram says on the GP's its relay #14 or #19. On mine 14 is the pump relay, i thought the bypass was for the fuel pump speed relay, which is 15 on mine.

Edited February 21, 2011 by Andrew

[digitaloutsider]

The fuel pump rewire seems like a waste of time to me. I wouldn't even bother with it, i'd just fix the resistor.

 

And yes, the car should still prime the pump when you turn the key on, even with a bad resistor. I also can't really speak to which exact one it is on that GP, I don't have a diagram or manuals for it. I grabbed that off a clubgp page.

[Andrew]

I mounted my new resistor in the same place you did. The easy way to access the connector for it is to just pull the battery forward, and its right there.

 

stole this pic from club gp.

Edited February 22, 2011 by Andrew