mra32 Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 I bet everyone on this board that thier car cant handle as well as mine due to the fact that I have MADDD SUSPENSION MODDDSSSS. But Seriously post your suspension mods and your comparison against other cars. If you get 1G in the skidpad you get a gold star. I guess I should post mine. I was highly inebriated when I originally made this topic. I think i still am. My car handles like a wet turd. *Twin Dual Cam Lowering Package which includes: --Front Lowering springs. They are red. If anyone knows anything about these, let me know --Coilover Rear Setup. The springs are yellow and all the aluminum is blue. Looks fast. *KYB Shocks front and rear with about 15K Miles on them *34MM Sway bar with Polyurethane Bushings all around *Stock Z34 rear sway bar with stock mounts through custom drilled holes through the frame rails using a 12" long drill bit that cost $15 *AWEB RSTB *H-Body Ghetto Rigged FSTB *Falken Ziex ZE912 225/60/16 tires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 As much as I would like to see this happen, I have my utmost doubts that It will go over any more then a lead balloon. I'll let this fly for now, but the first post that takes this thread towards a flame war will be the last post this thread sees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 90 TGP Intrax front springs Birchmount 3" drop leaf (also acts as an anti sway device) KYB GR2's all around CS vert 3.4 bar Aweb rear bar 34mm front sway bar with Energy poly Addco 7/8" gen 1 bar with Energy poly GMPP trailing arms 1" billet aluminum spacers on back tires P245-45-R16 Hankook RS2 tires (basically a street legal autocross tire) Basically all thats left is Andrei's poly a-arm mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 Front and rear STB bars. PHAIL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 90 TGP Intrax front springs Birchmount 3" drop leaf (also acts as an anti sway device) KYB GR2's all around CS vert 3.4 bar Aweb rear bar 34mm front sway bar with Energy poly Addco 7/8" gen 1 bar with Energy poly GMPP trailing arms 1" billet aluminum spacers on back tires P245-45-R16 Hankook RS2 tires (basically a street legal autocross tire) Basically all thats left is Andrei's poly a-arm mod. Muahahaha Think of the poly control arm mod as equivalent to porting heads on a car. You've supercharged it, done the intake and exhaust, now you just need to open it up to allow all of your mods to go to the next level. The poly control arm mod takes your car to the next level. To say the difference is incredible would be a vast understatement. As for me... Front Suspension Techniques lowered springs, 2" lower than the Monte Carlo, 5" lower than buick's dynaride springs KYB GR2's all around with KYB mounts rear birchmount steel leaf spring (coming in the mail), 4" drop. Previously used a Flex-A-Form lowered leaf, which is now broken. Front stock 34mm sway bar Rear ADDCO (Black Powdercoat) 22mm sway bar Custom Energy Suspension front control arm bushings (1 of 2 1st gen w-bodies with this mod, and the first) Energy Suspension sway bar bushings all around 17" 17x8 Audi A4 Sport rims with 235/45/17 Pirreli P6's. I hit a sustained .91 g's with no tire squeal on my old 15" tires with stock rims on the same suspension while driving through mountain roads. I'd love to see what it could do on a skidpad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 How did you measure this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 How did you measure this? Passport G-timer. As far as I've read, its generally accepted as one of the most accurate g-timers available. For $180, I would hope so. It wasn't a "kick the ass end out" moment just to get that peak number. I wasn't going to push the car all the way on a mountain road like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted July 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 I hit a sustained .91 g's with no tire squeal on my old 15" tires with stock rims on the same suspension while driving through mountain roads. I'd love to see what it could do on a skidpad. Find a parking lot, get some cones and a helper with a stopwatch and finally substantiate your claims. I think these cars should do pretty well on skidpads for what they are, even stock, due to the fact that the rear suspension promotes a small steering angle opposite to that of the front on the outside rear wheel. Its like inherent rear wheel steering . It should point the other rear wheel in the same direction a little, but compliance probably negates this effect on the inside. Better tires should certainly help and lowering too. A good alignment will do wonders. I wonder how much change other mods should make. I think tubular rear suspension should do a good bit for upping your skidpad numbers. You could set a car up that handles like crap but is pretty good on the skidpad. Circle track cars are set up to go one way, for the most part. However to gauge a suspension based on a single number would be rather foolish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 Mine is not anything spectacular, but I like it for the most part. stock FE3 BPY front springs with GR2s TGP steering rack Poly swaybar bushings on the 34mm front swaybar TGP rear leaf spring Koni Sport adjustable rear struts GMPP trailing arms I need to get around to making or buying the parts to get a rear STB in there, I am hoping that will help how the back end feels, and I'd like to see the tubular front control arms actually happen, but if that falls through I'll probably just do the poly bushings in the stock control arms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 aweb makes a great rear strut tower bar, and it makes a HUGE difference. definitely a must have for these cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Regal Limited Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 aweb makes a great rear strut tower bar, and it makes a HUGE difference. definitely a must have for these cars. I'm skeptical about putting a rear bar on these cars. Very. If anything it stiffens it up a good deal, correct? Stock, I can get my rear end to slide around me at will. Chris and Shaun can attest to that. It's HORRIBLE. Even with the Cutlass 3.4 bar, it helped the car a little, but not much at all. I think stiffening the back of these cars could be the worst thing to do, IMHO. correct me if I'm wrong. Right now, it's stock FE1 besides the 3.4 bar. Anyways, the plan for mine is- FE3 steering rack, FE3 springs+ swaybars and see how that does. Possibly a birchmount rear leaf if need be. Possibly cop car rear trailing arms or GMPP ones if I can find them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 yeah it stiffens up the rear end a lot. makes the car more predictable, and it doesn't wobble around when you turn. I thought that was a good thing. I have a very hard time kicking out the back end of my regal. I really have to do something insane. everyone else i've talked to who installed the bar love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted July 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 yeah it stiffens up the rear end a lot. makes the car more predictable, and it doesn't wobble around when you turn. I thought that was a good thing. I have a very hard time kicking out the back end of my regal. I really have to do something insane. everyone else i've talked to who installed the bar love it. Its quite easy, just let off the gas abruptly through a turn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 Stock, I can get my rear end to slide around me at will. Chris and Shaun can attest to that. It's HORRIBLE. What shape are your rear struts in, and your monoleaf? I thought my car would have a little trouble with the RSTB but it didn't make the rear end any more squirrely at all really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Regal Limited Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 Stock, I can get my rear end to slide around me at will. Chris and Shaun can attest to that. It's HORRIBLE. What shape are your rear struts in, and your monoleaf? I thought my car would have a little trouble with the RSTB but it didn't make the rear end any more squirrely at all really. Struts are probably blown. Not as blown as my front ones (it's worse than dynaride) but still work decent. My leaf is in great shape. Like most early W's, no rear sag, at all! EDIT- that's the best this car has EVER looked, doesn't look quite as fresh anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 my struts and mounts are practically new kyb gr2's. my monoleaf was great before it broke. I cannot get the rear end to kick out no matter how hard I take a turn and let off the gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Regal Limited Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 my struts and mounts are practically new kyb gr2's. my monoleaf was great before it broke. I cannot get the rear end to kick out no matter how hard I take a turn and let off the gas. All I have to do is yank the wheel and it goes "WHOOOOOOP!" and i'm all like "AAAAAH!!" and it's all like "SCCREACH!" and everyone in the car is like "OMG WTF HALP" and... you get the picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 Yeah, there's your problem. Get some new struts and then put the bar on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 LOL. I love the description. yeah you have some issues lol. get both struts and mounts replaced. then you'll see the benefit of the bar. its especially great if you have the 7/8" say bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 96 Cutlass Coupe -Stock BPY springs, 1 coil cut -FE3 upper mounts -Gabriel Struts -Brand New FE3 subframe bushings -LQ1 Front Sway Bar w/ proper clamps -ES Poly FSB Bushings -Uber low mileage FE3 Lumina Control Arms (came with my subframe I recently installed) -Custom FSTB (It BEEFY ) -Rear Coilovers --QA1 300lb springs --Stock Mounts --KYB GR2s -Gen 1.5 22mm Rear Sway Bar -Gen 2 Lateral Links -GMPP Tubular Trailing Arms -Rear STB (Held?? TDC??) -P225/55/R17 98V Tires Coming soon- -Installing my TGP Rack (w/ ES Rack Bushing) -O.E.M.(dohc v6) Solid Front and Rear Coilover Mounts -ES Poly RSB Bushings -Front Coilovers (already have parts, need to get above mounts) -Gen 2 Aluminum Rear Knuckles & Brakes -Gen 2 (02+ Impala) or Gen 3 Lateral Links w/ ES Poly Bushings --OR Custom Tubular Links w/ spherical Bearings -Aligned by me to my custom specs Then we will see who wants to play with me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohc v6 Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 Guess I should post mine. Front Camber plates Rear Solid mounts with pillow ball Rear tubular suspension Coilover with Koni race shocks(adjustable), springs are 500lbs hypercos Rear poly sway bar bushings Rear tie bar--Soon to make Front tie bar--Soon to make Front poly bushings Solid front dogbone 500lbs coilovers with koni race(adjutable) Custom FSTB--Soon to make Aweb Rear STB (soon to sell to build my own) Front tubular control arms-Soon to have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted July 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 This would be better if you gave feedback about your ride. What you like, what you dont like, what made the biggest improvement For me, i think I need an alignment and something tells me that my shocks are messed up. With the coilovers, when i hit potholes or something, there is a BONK from my right rear from the spring coming unseated briefly. Driving in west philadelphia on the fucked up roads is a little more stressful now, but its not as bad as my friends E28 bmw Definitely what made the biggest difference was the Wheels and tires. Going from 14" 195/70 all seasons to my current setup was awesome in so many ways. Other than that, the rear sway bar made quite a big difference and I'm cooking up a simple solution for our sway bars...anyone got an extra rear sway bar laying around? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 With the coilovers, when i hit potholes or something, there is a BONK from my right rear from the spring coming unseated briefly. I'm not the biggest suspension guru out there, but would a stiffer (higher) spring rate help keep the spring from coming out? Or is the spring seat just that small that it can't hold it in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 the strut at full droop is longer than the spring is fully extended Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 Ok, I wondered that too. Anyone look into different springs/strut applications? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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