3.1cutlass Posted November 17, 2008 Report Share Posted November 17, 2008 Mostly for show, you can't see them all that great with the headlamps on. (Duh! ) But I'm too cheap to go for strobes... -----------------Story of money------------------------------- VERY LITTLE CASH FLOW! It takes me 4 months to come up with $50... Yea, I need a job. I've applied at several fast food places, and EVERY grocery store in my area. No dice. I need to go get ASE Certified. I'm already capable of becoming certified in Brakes. And taking an ASE Certified course this year in Electronics. As some of you may know ASE certification is necessary for an automotive job. All persons who repair motor vehicles for compensation (including the reconditioning, replacement, diagnosis, adjustment or alteration of the operating condition of the vehicle or any component or sub-assembly) in any category of major repair, must be certified by the State of Michigan. http://www.michigan.gov/sos/0,1607,7-127-49534_50302---,00.html -----------------------------End Story-------------------------------------- Just don't become a know it all like some of the other ASE shit heads on this forum. Good luck to you though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timm Posted November 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2008 Mostly for show, you can't see them all that great with the headlamps on. (Duh! ) But I'm too cheap to go for strobes... -----------------Story of money------------------------------- VERY LITTLE CASH FLOW! It takes me 4 months to come up with $50... Yea, I need a job. I've applied at several fast food places, and EVERY grocery store in my area. No dice. I need to go get ASE Certified. I'm already capable of becoming certified in Brakes. And taking an ASE Certified course this year in Electronics. As some of you may know ASE certification is necessary for an automotive job. All persons who repair motor vehicles for compensation (including the reconditioning, replacement, diagnosis, adjustment or alteration of the operating condition of the vehicle or any component or sub-assembly) in any category of major repair, must be certified by the State of Michigan. http://www.michigan.gov/sos/0,1607,7-127-49534_50302---,00.html -----------------------------End Story-------------------------------------- Just don't become a know it all like some of the other ASE shit heads on this forum. Good luck to you though. Lol, I can't really go being a dick to anyone, as I'm probably the youngest person on this forum. (16.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intern8tion9l Posted November 17, 2008 Report Share Posted November 17, 2008 headlights look sweet man, i have it mind to do something of that nature if i ever drive my car again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timm Posted November 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2008 Can't anyone here figure if this will work without the park lamps making the car go into RUN? Okay, so now I want to have the LED's and the front 2 parking lamps to automatically be on when the ignition in in the run position. This diagram should work. BUT Wouldn't that make my car go into the "RUN" if someone flipped the parking lamps on? DISCUSS! (My brain hurts from making this diagram now...) The relay is to separate the front two lights from the rest of the parking light circuit, but allow them to come on when the parking lights are turned on. (A giant, highly rated diode would also do the job.) The switch is destined to stay on, unless something comes up and I need them off, but still want my regular parking lights. Don't ask why I want this. I'm bad at coming up with good answers for half the stuff I do. I find my best ideas are my least thought through. The LEDs look bad without the orange contrasting them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 19, 2008 Report Share Posted November 19, 2008 I saw a mustang with LEDs in the headlights today. they were pointing directly out though. the diagram is a bit hard to follow!!!! Sorry! in fact.... it really makes no sense based on how the car is wired. I have thought of separating the front markers onto a separate circuit, that is always powered when the ignition is on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 Yeah, that diagram is pretty nuts to follow. Eliminate all pictures, and just use words. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted November 21, 2008 Report Share Posted November 21, 2008 Alright, first pic is yours. The relay is just redundant, I don't know why you put it there. Secondly, the rest of the schematic won't work because there's more to do. The second is a pic I got off of All Data. Sorry its just black and white, didn't think of making it colorful. But, this way will (I'm pretty sure) allow you to retain factory wiring and function at the flick of a switch, So long as you wire it correctly. P.S. You could always tie the ground for your LED's into the switched ground of the relay to further simplify the circuit. Unless you have a separate switch for your LED's and are fine with that, either way will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenegadeZ Posted November 23, 2008 Report Share Posted November 23, 2008 Lol I know right! I thought someone would get a kick out of the red text... why stop using it now...thanks Jeremy it feels like home!....I use leds for my reverse lights now, the reg "921 bulb" worked a litte better @ lighting the "whole" area behind my car but didnt look as good...how ever I do have 5% tint all the way around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake91 Posted November 23, 2008 Report Share Posted November 23, 2008 looks good nice job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted November 30, 2008 Report Share Posted November 30, 2008 1996Regal: How long did it take to for you to get the LEDs, because I ordered from the same store on Ebay almost two weeks ago, and haven't gotten anything yet. Just getting antsy I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timm Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Alright, first pic is yours. The relay is just redundant, I don't know why you put it there. Secondly, the rest of the schematic won't work because there's more to do. The second is a pic I got off of All Data. Sorry its just black and white, didn't think of making it colorful. But, this way will (I'm pretty sure) allow you to retain factory wiring and function at the flick of a switch, So long as you wire it correctly. P.S. You could always tie the ground for your LED's into the switched ground of the relay to further simplify the circuit. Unless you have a separate switch for your LED's and are fine with that, either way will work. Looks good, Thanks! Will try it out later this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timm Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 1996Regal: How long did it take to for you to get the LEDs, because I ordered from the same store on Ebay almost two weeks ago, and haven't gotten anything yet. Just getting antsy I guess. It took a LONG time. Or it seemed like forever anyway. They will come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timm Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Also an update! two of my LEDs are gone! :-0 IDK if they got un-soldered or what. The two in my climate controls. One behind the temp. One behind the Fan speed. not the same day. whatever, I think I'll order some white LEDs instead and redo all the interior. The blue is starting to look a little to "ricer" for me. (I use that term very loosely.) I'm definitely thinking a bright white would look awesome. -----------EDIT--------------- *face palm* I swear I posted this reply before I saw this thread http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=74118.0 But, whatever. You can accuse me of "copying" the idea of straying away from blue color. But once you get the blue installed and drive around with it for a few days, you WILL HATE IT! So I really don't care if I'm "copying". I think we've all thought of an LED conversion, but now people are actually doing it instead of just talking about it. No one will understand my point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwk39018 Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 I did a led conversion in my Elantra, Did i copy you than to Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timm Posted December 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 Alright, first pic is yours. The relay is just redundant, I don't know why you put it there. Secondly, the rest of the schematic won't work because there's more to do. The second is a pic I got off of All Data. Sorry its just black and white, didn't think of making it colorful. But, this way will (I'm pretty sure) allow you to retain factory wiring and function at the flick of a switch, So long as you wire it correctly. P.S. You could always tie the ground for your LED's into the switched ground of the relay to further simplify the circuit. Unless you have a separate switch for your LED's and are fine with that, either way will work. I wired it up and it works GREAT! The only thing with the diagram is that the 87 (NO) and 87a (NC) needed switching. Easy fix, THANK YOU! YOU ARE NOW MY HERO FOR PROBABLY THE NEXT MONTH OR SO! :thumb: Will upload some pictures later! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuminaSS Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 what value of resistor? Can't quite decipher the ring colors on it. http://cgi.ebay.com/Lot-of-100-X-3mm-Blue-LED-5000mcd-Free-Resistors_W0QQitemZ250326051315QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Electronic_Components?hash=item250326051315&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1240 I got the resistors 13.2 v... .. .. .... Never mind, too much thinking to do conversions. Fixed DVOM. 540 ohms or you could throw variable resistor on there to act as a dimmer switch. I was lookin into doin this w/back up lights & def the tails. I was waitin fro some mini-leds to come out so I could make a whole cluster for the brake lights & third brake light. I love the "digital" look of the mini led's. they're much more effective @ creating light then a standard bulb which is more efficient @ creating heat then actual light emittance (lumens). sucks but true. a light bulb & a toaster have more in common then to an led lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 Alright, a little update/ hijack of the thread. please pardon me. Anyway, out of inspiration after successfully starting a LED conversion update to the HVAC controls in my truck, I decided I had a whirlwind of ideas I could try. First on my list since I have the Monte at school doin body work, is to do some stuff while I'm not working on the body. The first idea is this: You know on the trunk panel, everyone is painting stuff on there to make light patterns. Well, I am going to paint that black of course, but I always wanted more functional/ practical lighting on there. Well, there are those two red reflectors next to the Taillights. I thought, what would it be like to make those another parklight. Well, I set upon it with some of the 5mm LEDs I got off of Ebay. I know there is no bezel or any fixture there, so I am improvising. I got some generic PCB board from Radio Shack, which I may have to trim a bit, but it looks to be pretty close to the right size. I then plan on cutting a small square out of the plactic from the inside of the panel, behind the red reflector and putting my little light in there, effectively making another parklight. I'm not sure of the sealing/ holding method. Probably some clear or black (most likely black) so it doesn't light up the rest of the clear panel. The silver tape is just metal tape, as sort of a reflector, for now. Maybe it will work. And the glob on top of the LEDs is Hot Glue; what I have found best diffuses the light from the LEDs. My little light fixtures probably look really nerdy/ like crap, as they are only prototypes at this points Let know thoughts/ suggestions!!!!!!!! Future plans include using more PCB board to redo the sidemarker lights, and dome lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.