rockfangd Posted June 13, 2007 Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 hi everyone i have been told for the longest time since i got my 94 cutlass that my rear end has been low. normally i disregarded this because i have very new kyb struts in the rear. But when i changed my struts my rear did not raise by more than an inch. The only thing i can think of is maybe the monoleaf is sagging. I will have to post a few pics but when i go out and look at the car it is very noticeable. In the front i have about 6 inches between the fender well and the tire, but in the rear the tires are almost in the wheel wells., you can fit like a finger in there I changed the rear struts, mounts, and rubber bushings in the rear. Is there any easy fix for this issue. Thanks to all in advance. I will post a few pics tomorrow but the issue now has to be addressed because i worry about the monoleaf breaking or losing my dual ehxaust. Which i will be very angry lol. also thanks mods for moving this. I have no idea what this would have to do with powertrain lol [attachment deleted by admin] Removed to free up storage space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted June 13, 2007 Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 Crawl under the car and take a look at the monoleaf. It's probably got plenty of cracks in it that are causing it to sag. I swapped out the monoleaf in my '93 around 200K miles, it was cracked pretty bad and the ass end was sitting low(it also would creak & pop under hard acceleration or hard braking When it did this, the popping noise it made would transfer into the floor boards and it actually sounded like something was popping right under the front of the car.). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted June 13, 2007 Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 You might need a new monoleaf by the sounds of it. Adding KYBs made Q-balls car look monster truckish. If you can wait, I MIGHT have a stock leaf for sale, it all depends on the condition its in, I don't want to sell someone a stock leaf that is starting to crack. But that won't be till mid July. Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMY03GT Posted June 13, 2007 Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 How much is a stock monoleaf to BUY? Also how hard to replace? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted June 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 it is about 450 to 550$ and i also need to know how to replace it. My donor car has a good one that i want to switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted June 13, 2007 Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 When I took mine out, I found that the easiest way to take it out is to unbolt all the cross links ( from lateral link to lateral link ) and unbolt the training arms at the body... I did this and mine just slid out. If your going to buy one for that much, just get a birchmount and some front lowering springs while your at it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted June 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 what about snapping off bolts. that is what i am worried about. torque is no issue for me but snapped bolts sure is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 I JUST DID THIS! Plenty of PB Blaster. Pb Blaster is your friend! you should be able to get a good used leaf cheap. I'd say should be no more than $25 from a yard. When I took mine out, I found that the easiest way to take it out is to unbolt all the cross links ( from lateral link to lateral link ) and unbolt the training arms at the body... I did this and mine just slid out. If your going to buy one for that much, just get a birchmount and some front lowering springs while your at it! You are saying disconnect both trailing arms, and lateral links? that worked for you? did you release the top of the strut from the body? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 I JUST DID THIS! Plenty of PB Blaster. Pb Blaster is your friend! you should be able to get a good used leaf cheap. I'd say should be no more than $25 from a yard. When I took mine out, I found that the easiest way to take it out is to unbolt all the cross links ( from lateral link to lateral link ) and unbolt the training arms at the body... I did this and mine just slid out. If your going to buy one for that much, just get a birchmount and some front lowering springs while your at it! You are saying disconnect both trailing arms, and lateral links? that worked for you? did you release the top of the strut from the body? both trailing arms, but leave the lateral links. They stay!!!! its the members that go between the lateral links ( from front to rear, on has the exhaust hanger on one side ) and the top of the strut stays in the body/bolted to the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted June 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 so altogher how much of a difficult job should this be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 not too hard. step 1: spray PBBblaster on everything. try to wiggle the nuts and bolts to make sure they break loose. step 2: repeat step 3: repeat step 4: repeat step 5: repeat step 6: repeat step 7: buy another can of PBB! it is not too hard, just time and patience, as long as you make sure all your bolts come free. I started pre-spraying them a week in advance. I made sure every bolt loosened up, and then I tightened them back up. when all the bolts came free, I did the total suspension job on the next available day. the biggest problem will be the 4 bolts that hold the retainers for the spring in place. those took several soaking, I'd turn them 1/4 turn loose, then tighten, loosen, and tighten. in and out by small bits to grind 15+ years of rust off the threads, I could actually smell cooking PBB and the bolts got hotter and hotter, but that worked to my advantage, as a hot bolt might as well have been torched to break loose. make sure not to break any or you'll be up shit creek! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted June 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 those 4 bolts are the bolts that i am most afraid of. But i must do the job lol. What about getting it out safely without killing anyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCRagtopguy Posted June 15, 2007 Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 I highly recommend CRC Knock'er Loose, it's better than PB Blaster according to tests that I have personally run. It's in a Orange can, part #03020. (end of commercial) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted June 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2007 lol. well i was supposed to attempt it today but other jobs became priority Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted June 17, 2007 Report Share Posted June 17, 2007 it is about 450 to 550$ and i also need to know how to replace it. My donor car has a good one that i want to switch. Or you could just get a custom leaf from Flex-A-Form. Mine was $330 shipped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJansen658 Posted June 19, 2007 Report Share Posted June 19, 2007 The spring is cheap. Get a used one for $25 from the local yard. As for the small bolts snapping. So what if they do. Snap all 4. The thing that the bolts screw into is a replaceable, available plate that has two threaded holes. Once you get the spring out, it is easily accessible. just pop the plate out of the body channel it is in, and pop in a new one, and use new bolts and rubber pads. The parts are like $30 from the dealer. I have even made my own plates before and used non OEM bolts. The bolts aren't the hard part. THERE IS A LOT OF PRESSURE ON THE SPRING. I don't doubt it is capable of killing someone. The hardest part is putting the pressure required back onto the spring to reassemble. The best thing to use is 2 giant C clamps, although I have used large woodworking clamps before too. You'll figure it out, but be careful, if it looks dangerous, it probably is. Also. check the little pads at the ends of the spring, NAPA sells replacement nylon blocks for the ends that will raise ride height about 1" in the rear if yours are missing or worn out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted June 20, 2007 Report Share Posted June 20, 2007 Id have to disagree that it is dangerous in dealing with the monoleaf. I removed mine and it was effortless. Like I said before, if you remove the trailing arms at the body to let the knuckles down more, it will be very easy getting it in and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted June 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2007 well thanks for all of the helpful input. I am glad the bolts are easy though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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