Vert rear quarter window motor

[dhs1223]

We had a very nice day here yesterday, so afterwork I decided I would drive home with the top down. So I got in the driver's seat, started up, PRESSED the rear two window buttons for all four window auto down and only 3 windows went down.

 

Now I need to determine why the rear left back seat quarter window did not follow the other three. Now when I press on the driver door button for that window, all I hear is a click somewhere in the dash or console area.

 

Has anyone else currently got window issues with their vert?

 

Also, what window motors interchange which this part on the cutlass vert? Just in case I have to look at changing out the motor.

 

Also, has anyone ever changed one of these motors? Is it difficult? I suspect that the entire back seat must be removed to remove the trim panel to access the power window motor.

 

Any experience in this area would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

[Crazy K]

the seat must be removed.

 

here's a tip:

 

on 93 down...remove the speaker and you will be able to see the wiring and access the switch.

 

if you can pop the switch out and determine which wires run to the motor, supply them with 12 volts and see if the window moves.

 

 

most often, A non working window is caused by a faulty switch. the 1990/91? thru 94 switch is the same as used in the rear doors of a 90-94 CS sedan, except the retainer tabs must be swapped.

 

I suspect the motor is t6he same as used on other W-body window regulators, and could be swapped by drilling viets out if they are really bad. I have not done so nor am i certain if the motor is actually swappable... but typically they chould swap.

[kbviper]

I bought a 94 vert with a nion-functioning passenger side rear quarter window. Nothing when either switch was pressed. With the top down, I reached down into the space where the window motor is and tapped it hard several times with a long handled screwdriver, while I had someone press the "up button".

 

To my surprise, the window went up, and has continued to work since. The car had been stored for about 3 months before I picked it up, and I was told afterwards that the motors can "freeze up", and be "freed up" with a good tap.

 

I store my 3 cutty verts in a heated garage with the tops up every winter, but start them, move them slightly, and shift through all the gears, and cycle the roofs and windows up and down several times, and never have had a problem.

[kuwaitliberation]

Don't know if you saw this in another thread that I answered in:

Brushes are what transfer the electricity to the motor. Because the motor turns around, it has to have something in constant contact with it, so it uses metal brushes with springs to hold them against the rotor. There are usually two of them on a standard DC motor. They are in holes covered by plugs with a slot for screwdriver. If you just open those, you will have access to the spring and brush. As the brush wears down the spring keeps it held against the rotor, however because it is uncompressing the pressure gets weaker the more it wears. This causes it to loose connectivity for very short (milisecond) intervals. It makes it seem like the motor doesn't have the power it once had. Once you replace the springs and brushes, it goes back to the original power. The motor itself never really "wears out" just the brushes which are designed to do so. You can usually get replacements at any major parts store.

 

Hope that helps!

Motors rarely die because of something other than the brushes. There "should" be a way to replace the brushes on these motors, but I have never looked at one, personally. The procedure actually only takes a flat-head screwdriver and the ability to bend your arms three different ways to get them down the side panel to the actual motor. I will research this particular motor this coming weekend and see what I can find out. No, I'm not tearing my car apart, yet, but I can see this on a friends GM that is torn to pieces. That should give me a good indication of what I would be looking at in the Cutlass

 

Don

[Crazy K]

Don't know if you saw this in another thread that I answered in:

Brushes are what transfer the electricity to the motor. Because the motor turns around, it has to have something in constant contact with it, so it uses metal brushes with springs to hold them against the rotor. There are usually two of them on a standard DC motor. They are in holes covered by plugs with a slot for screwdriver. If you just open those, you will have access to the spring and brush. As the brush wears down the spring keeps it held against the rotor, however because it is uncompressing the pressure gets weaker the more it wears. This causes it to loose connectivity for very short (milisecond) intervals. It makes it seem like the motor doesn't have the power it once had. Once you replace the springs and brushes, it goes back to the original power. The motor itself never really "wears out" just the brushes which are designed to do so. You can usually get replacements at any major parts store.

 

Hope that helps!

Motors rarely die because of something other than the brushes. There "should" be a way to replace the brushes on these motors, but I have never looked at one, personally. The procedure actually only takes a flat-head screwdriver and the ability to bend your arms three different ways to get them down the side panel to the actual motor. I will research this particular motor this coming weekend and see what I can find out. No, I'm not tearing my car apart, yet, but I can see this on a friends GM that is torn to pieces. That should give me a good indication of what I would be looking at in the Cutlass

 

Don

mine are all torn to pieces... but I don;t know with certainty at the moment.

 

But I think window motors are usually jambed to cause them to fail. maybe the armature becmae overheated and expanded to rub the inards of the case? I've seen some that do take power but appear to be short circuited... one that would more the window an inch and then blow it's circuit breaker... and move another inch once the circuit breaker closed and allowed power again, thus blowing it again.

 

it should not be a hard swap, and maybe I just need to go out and check for myself.

[dhs1223]

thanks for the input everyone.

 

I changed out the pwr window switch in back and nothing.

 

So, I thought, leave it for now, weather is getting cold again and will not want to put top down anyways.

 

Then, a few days later, I thought, what the hell, try it again, and for some reason, it started working again. Perhaps a short, but I have tried both the rear switch and the master driver's door switch a number of times since and it has not failed again.

 

Hopefully it continues to hold up.

 

Thanks

 

[DOHCRagtopguy]

Sometimes the ground fails to make a good connection and they don't work. On my wife's old Lumina that she used to have the driver's window would stop working periodically. I got pissed one day and slammed the door hard and it fixed it. The damn ground was a little loose.

[DavidHowell3633]

I had to replace the power window motor on the rear passenger side. The only difficulty was the rivets. I had to drill them out. I purchased a "nutserts" kit at Harbor Freight ($20 +/-) to reinstall. David