Castrol 10W40

[97loudcut]

First off let me say that I am not running this. I would only run 10W40 in the Spring/Summer, and I allready run Royal Purple 10W30 through the months of Spring and Summer, but..

 

A guy comes into my work a couple weeks ago with a 3400SFI and it had pretty bad lifter tick, a little worse than mine. Terry Jr., my manager / owner, comes up to the guy and says, "Why don't you try this Castrol 10W40? I have used it in cars before to stop the tick." So the owner agrees and we change his oil..

 

Now before he left I specifically told him, "If this clears up your lifter tick, come back and let me know." Well about a week later the guy comes back for a new battery and says, "The lifter tick is gone, no more noise!"

 

So has anyone tried this? Terry Jr. said that it is only the Castrol 10W40 that clears it up, and not any other brand.

 

So for you guys that run conventional oil year round, you may consider swapping to Castrol 10W40 during the warmer months.

[19Cutlass94]

10W40 is a heavier weight oil than what most guys here use. This may help the problem, but I believe over anything it was the weight of the oil that helped, and not specifically what brand it was.

[97loudcut]

10W40 is a heavier weight oil than what most guys here use. This may help the problem, but I believe over anything it was the weight of the oil that helped, and not specifically what brand it was.

 

He said it was only Castrol. He tried Valvoline, QS, Penzoil, and Havoline.. only the Castrol worked.

 

You do know like 10 yrs. ago Consumer Reports did an oil test on conventional oils and Castrol topped the list for it's great protection against sludge. I am sure things have changed since then, but I was just saying..It is specifically the Castrol 10W40

[Psych0matt]

hmmm, i might try that, although as long as im topped off it usually doesnt have it. i just have one extremely obnoxious lifter, and if i get any bit low itll tick all the time. its funny cuz i can tell how low im getting because itll go from ticking like 4 or 5 times to doing it all the time

[FordBoy]

Really i never heard of that i may have to start useing castrol

[GnatGoSplat]

Most people don't recommend 10W40 in anything because it has too much viscosity improvers in it.

[Psych0matt]

Most people don't recommend 10W40 in anything because it has too much viscosity improvers in it.

 

yeah, but we all know how well you take care of your cars!

 

 

:jk:

[97loudcut]

All I'm saying is try it.

 

FYI Shawn, I don't know who your "most people" are but I work a very professional place, you can ask Tony, and we would never recommend anything to hurt your engine. Some engines take 10W40 and even some people request it. For the people that do request 10W40 they always specifically ask for Castrol.

[1990lumina]

I may try this in the summer...that shit is too thick to run for me in winter though IMO...I leave my car parked all over the place unplugged usually so it's not gonna get to the top end of the motor very fast in -40 weather..I had considered runing a synthetic 0W30-40 this winter but decided against it because it was fucking expensive, and stuck with my normal 5W30-winter 10W30-summer routine

[97loudcut]

I may try this in the summer...that shit is too thick to run for me in winter though IMO...I leave my car parked all over the place unplugged usually so it's not gonna get to the top end of the motor very fast in -40 weather..I had considered runing a synthetic 0W30-40 this winter but decided against it because it was fucking expensive, and stuck with my normal 5W30-winter 10W30-summer routine

 

You of all people should try this.

 

By plugged in, you mean that you have an engine block warmer or an oil pan heater?

[GnatGoSplat]

FYI Shawn, I don't know who your "most people" are but I work a very professional place, you can ask Tony, and we would never recommend anything to hurt your engine. Some engines take 10W40 and even some people request it. For the people that do request 10W40 they always specifically ask for Castrol.

 

I don't think any manufacturer actually recommends 10W40, I've never seen it anyway.

At any rate, I guess you're right. Today's 10W40's aren't as bad as they used to be. The 2nd post in this thread explains why everyone used to say 10W40 is bad. The guy seems to know what he's talking about. Even though today's viscosity improvers are higher quality, I still think it's better to use 10W30, although maybe it's the VI's that are sealing gaps and quieting things down.

 

 

 

 

[5speedz34]

FYI Shawn, I don't know who your "most people" are but I work a very professional place, you can ask Tony, and we would never recommend anything to hurt your engine. Some engines take 10W40 and even some people request it. For the people that do request 10W40 they always specifically ask for Castrol.

 

I don't think any manufacturer actually recommends 10W40, I've never seen it anyway.

At any rate, I guess you're right. Today's 10W40's aren't as bad as they used to be. The 2nd post in this thread explains why everyone used to say 10W40 is bad. The guy seems to know what he's talking about. Even though today's viscosity improvers are higher quality, I still think it's better to use 10W30, although maybe it's the VI's that are sealing gaps and quieting things down.

 

 

 

 

 

First I didn't read the link....

 

Matt, I know the place you work at is very professional and has a good reputation. But, are any of the guys you work with ASE certified? You even told me many of the people that started there never knew how to change oil.

 

Second, I've always thought Castrol was dog shit. The reason I thought this is because I've heard their synthetic isn't really synthetic at all.

 

Also, how much heavier is 10W40 over 10W30? I think 10W30 might not be to thick to run here, but I really don't know how far that oil is rated to go down to. Also, you could always just add a additive in if you wanted to right?

 

Ohh, here is the consumer reports article and it does rate Castrol better but that was 10 years ago.

 

If it where me I would run synthetic all the time and keep it somewhere between 5W30 and 10W30 depending on where you live.

 

Edit: I've never seen any manufacture recommend 10W40 except for maybe I think a Mercedes Benz diesel that came in. Granted we don't get a whole variety of vehicles either.

[5speedz34]

I cut and paste this from Alldata:

ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY

Engine oil viscosity has an effect on fuel economy and the cold-weather operation. Lower viscosity engine oils can provide better fuel economy and cold-weather performance. However, higher temperature weather conditions require higher viscosity engine oils for satisfactory lubrication.

 

 

The recommended oil viscosity for the M/L van is SAE 5W-30 .

When the temperature is consistently above -18°C (0°F), SAE 10W-30 can be used.

SAE 20W-50 or oils of other viscosity rating or quality designations are NOT recommended for use in this vehicle at any time.

Notice

Using oils of any viscosity other than those recommended could result in engine damage. When choosing an oil, consider the range of temperatures the vehicle will be operated in before the next oil change. Then, select the recommended oil viscosity.

 

Important

If your vehicle is operated in an area where the temperature falls below -29°C (-20°F), consider using a SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or a SAE 0W-30. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures.

 

Personally, I don't know how much more "protection" 10w30 offers to warrant running it. I know my sisters car got 10W30 for a while, but I will probably switch to 5W30 since it can get below 0*F at times and the car sits outside.

 

[GnatGoSplat]

Second, I've always thought Castrol was dog shit. The reason I thought this is because I've heard their synthetic isn't really synthetic at all.

 

It is and it isn't. Real synthetic was always PAO, then Castrol took conventional oil, hydroprocessed it (very clean), and called it synthetic. Mobil Oil complained, "hey, that's not real synthetic, you can't call it synthetic!" so they filed a complaint. The National Advertising Division (NAD) ruled on the matter and decided Castrol was allowed to call their oil synthetic, and that's where it stood. http://www.1st-in-synthetics.com/articles60.htm

 

That said, I'm not a big fan of Castrol oil because throughout the 90's I used Castrol GTX religiously. I wouldn't touch any other brand. But in my wife's car (an identical car 1yr older), I always used Wal-Mart SuperTech (WPP oil) of the same weight. One day, I took the valve covers off, and discovered the wife's car was much cleaner internally and has better oil pressure to boot. Both cars now have about the same mileage (200k). Since spending more on oil didn't seem to help, I now use cheap-ass SuperTech in all my daily driver cars with non-performance engines.

 

Also, how much heavier is 10W40 over 10W30? I think 10W30 might not be to thick to run here, but I really don't know how far that oil is rated to go down to. Also, you could always just add a additive in if you wanted to right?

 

10W30 and 10W40 is the same 10-weight base, the 40 just has extra viscosity improvers to improve viscosity at higher temps.

 

[5speedz34]

Yeah, this is now the second time that SuperTech is mentioned as being pretty good. I wonder if it not worth recommending to customers at work over the Valvoline(bulk oil)?

 

Like I said you can't beat the advantages of synthetic so I would just run synthetic.

[GnatGoSplat]

Yeah, this is now the second time that SuperTech is mentioned as being pretty good. I wonder if it not worth recommending to customers at work over the Valvoline(bulk oil)?

 

Dunno, but I've used SuperTech for over a decade and never had an oil-related engine problem.

There are different suppliers though. Round bottles are Mobil and squarish bottles are WPP (Warren). Never had a problem with either.

 

[19Cutlass94]

My dad has always ran Valvoline, even in his car when he raced it back in the '70s and we use all of their oil today. I believe that you change the oil when it is suppose to be, you really wont have a problem. As far as what oil you want to use, Ive seen how clean mine was with Valvoline, so Im sticking with that. Even though most people will go with whats the cheapest...

[Crazy K]

Dunno, but I've used SuperTech for over a decade and never had an oil-related engine problem.

There are different suppliers though. Round bottles are Mobil and squarish bottles are WPP (Warren). Never had a problem with either.

 

 

I just checked the bottle, the Supertech Synthetic Oil made by warren has WPP imprinted in the jug's underside.

 

:redface:I'm really really bad right now and drove my vert 7000 miles on the last oil change on supertech synthetic.... and the oil is cleaner than the same overage of mileage in my Lumina when I has castrol... (granted the lumina had 108k more miles total)

 

I'm going Supertech syntehtic with the WPP stamp!

[5speedz34]

Yeah, this is now the second time that SuperTech is mentioned as being pretty good. I wonder if it not worth recommending to customers at work over the Valvoline(bulk oil)?

 

Dunno, but I've used SuperTech for over a decade and never had an oil-related engine problem.

There are different suppliers though. Round bottles are Mobil and squarish bottles are WPP (Warren). Never had a problem with either.

 

 

I typed that wrong Shawn. Generally at work we recommend the Valvoline over the SuperTech since the fact that it is name brand. What I meant to say is I wonder if SuperTech is better than Valvoline. I wouldn't think so, but IMO most conventional oil is equal. Like 19Cutlass94 I agree if you change the oil on a regular basis I think you would be fine.

 

We recently changed bottles. The 5W30 SuperTech is square and clearer. The 10W30 is the round bottle and is much darker.

 

I don't think anything is wrong with it, personally. I think the bias comes from the fact that it is a "generic" oil.

[mfewtrail]

 

 

That said, I'm not a big fan of Castrol oil because throughout the 90's I used Castrol GTX religiously. I wouldn't touch any other brand. But in my wife's car (an identical car 1yr older), I always used Wal-Mart SuperTech (WPP oil) of the same weight. One day, I took the valve covers off, and discovered the wife's car was much cleaner internally and has better oil pressure to boot.

 

Shawn, did you own the other car from new? If not, it could have been dirty inside by the time you purchased it. My current 210K+ mile 3.1 MPFI has been ran on Castrol GTX since the first oil change after it left the dealer's lot. The engine is extremely clean inside(3K oil changes always, I do 4-5K intervals now though). My other 3.1 w/ 230,000 miles on it when I pulled it(was pulling it to do a performance build, nothing was wrong with it) also had Castrol all it's life..it too was one of the cleanest engines I've seen inside.

[1990lumina]

all oil has to meet certain standards anyway, so I can see the cheapest oil still being good quality...I started running Castrol in the Lumina last oil change...it's too far gone to really help anything but what the heck lol..

 

IMO, doesn't dirty oil mean the oil is doing it's job??I mean of course dirty oil isn't good for an engine either and should be changed, but doesn't that mean the oil is doing it's job cleaning the internal parts of the engine??

[5speedz34]

all oil has to meet certain standards anyway, so I can see the cheapest oil still being good quality...I started running Castrol in the Lumina last oil change...it's too far gone to really help anything but what the heck lol..

 

IMO, doesn't dirty oil mean the oil is doing it's job??I mean of course dirty oil isn't good for an engine either and should be changed, but doesn't that mean the oil is doing it's job cleaning the internal parts of the engine??

 

Oil's main job is to provide lubrication but, it also has cleaning agents. Oil gets dirty from more than just cleaning. It gets dirty from contamination of gas and other things.

[GnatGoSplat]

Shawn, did you own the other car from new? If not, it could have been dirty inside by the time you purchased it. My current 210K+ mile 3.1 MPFI has been ran on Castrol GTX since the first oil change after it left the dealer's lot. The engine is extremely clean inside(3K oil changes always, I do 4-5K intervals now though). My other 3.1 w/ 230,000 miles on it when I pulled it(was pulling it to do a performance build, nothing was wrong with it) also had Castrol all it's life..it too was one of the cleanest engines I've seen inside.

 

Nah, my stepdad had it from 15k to about 110k and I've had it from then to over 200k. He always ran Castrol GTX which is why I continued the tradition. I won't say mine was dirty, but the varnish stain in the head/rockers/lifters from the GTX was a lot darker. Brown vs. yellow.

 

IMO, doesn't dirty oil mean the oil is doing it's job??I mean of course dirty oil isn't good for an engine either and should be changed, but doesn't that mean the oil is doing it's job cleaning the internal parts of the engine??

 

Yeah, oil is supposed to hold contaminants in suspension so dirty oil doesn't mean anything.

 

[97loudcut]

Yes Tony, both mechanics are ASE certified and 4 of the "Quick Lube Tech's" are certified.

 

I just said that you don't have to be certified to work there.

[5speedz34]

Yes Tony, both mechanics are ASE certified and 4 of the "Quick Lube Tech's" are certified.

 

I just said that you don't have to be certified to work there.

 

Ok, well I was just establishing their credibility.