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Boost guage misteriously started working :)


RedZMonte

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Got me why... but it now just started working. It goes up to the 2nd to last bar. I am still going to get a cup and a Autometer boost guage for accuracy.

 

Shane

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Over the years pretty much every odd gauge cluster reading/problem has been fixed when the owners resoldered the gauge cluster circuit board. Shawn Lin has done a great job in detailing the work so anyone with a solder gun can fix the common gauge cluster problems, check his link below here. As for the boost gauge, you got that right, it’s only a relative indicator of boost, once the engine gets around 10 psi or more the gauge will just max out and show 15 psi, a real boost gauge like you are looking into is the best approach.

 

Jeff M

 

http://www.w-body.com/service/checkgauges.html

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My fuel light does the same thing..

I fixed the keyless entry module last night, so I need to pull the cluster again and do the work on those solder joints.

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Yep, soldering job will take care of that low gas light too, that is one of the more common false lights to come on when the gauge cluster needs work.

 

You "fixed" the remote module? I think I seen the fix (maybe Shawn again) on that but we never got enough feedback here as with the gauge cluster to know the "fix" recomended worked. Can you tell us what you did, and that it must of worked??

 

Thanks

Jeff M

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Shawn has the repair information on his site for the keyless module.. I followed that, hoping it would do some good. I also noticed that a small resistor had fallen off the board inside the remote control, I also soldered that back on as well.

I have yet to try it, but from the way it looks, everything should work. I'll give it a try when I get home from work today.

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Shawn has the repair information on his site for the keyless module.. I followed that, hoping it would do some good. I also noticed that a small resistor had fallen off the board inside the remote control, I also soldered that back on as well.

I have yet to try it, but from the way it looks, everything should work. I'll give it a try when I get home from work today.

 

You guys have keyless entry? I don't :(

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You guys have keyless entry? I don't :(

 

Are you sure about that??? I think all TGP's have keyless entry. Look for "AU0" on your RPO codes. If it's there, you have it.

 

As far as the RKE fix, I've heard back from enough people to know it DOES work, BUT for a 100% results, you have to resolder the WHOLE THING, not just the chip as I mentioned in that article.

Some people resoldered just the chips and were happy because the RKE module worked... but then it would quit just 1-2 weeks later.

Resoldering EVERYTHING on the board is the only way to fix it reliably. I had a DOA RKE module in the 94 Cutlass and after a COMPLETE resoldering, it hasn't failed once in 9-months, it's used every day. I did the same to my TGP module and it still works great 2-1/2 years later, although I haven't used it every day.

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perhaps i'll have to solder mine, i have a remote from a 95 firebird, that was made by trw, and has the same button arrangement and new batteries, but i can seem to get it to program. Should it work?

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Yep all TGPs had it from the factory, sounds like he is just missing the remotes to know this. I am glad that “you†Shawn have gotten positive feedback on your fix, we never got enough here at this forum for me to see it confirmed yet, and I was looking/hoping for it to be confirmed a few times before I tell everyone that emails me (or posts here but that is a 90%|10% ratio emails to posts), and I wanted there to be a good fix, I too have same problems. My last questions just to be sure but it sounds maybe that is corrected too, does all the resoldering the RKE take care of the trunk latch activating when the RKE gets heat soaked/hot??

 

Jeff M

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Guest TurboSedan

i've resoldered mine 3 times now, and each time it is the small chip closest to the edge of the board. it will work great for maybe 2 months, then slowly quit working all together. of course, my soldering skills aren't that great....

joshua

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Black Phoenix - Yes, that TRW remote should work with the TGP.

 

Jeff - Yes, the soldering (if successful) should take care of of the random trunk popping problem.

 

I found this great stuff by KESTER called ROSIN PASTE FLUX FORMULA SP-44. Dab a little on all the solder joints, and when the hot soldering iron contacts the solder joint, it flows instantly, turning very shiny silver. You don't even have to add any additional solder to the joints with the flux, but the joints turn out to be super shiny and smooth - perfect solder joints.

I highly recommend picking some up, the Kester flux makes quick work of resoldering. I bought it from Digi-Key, but you might be able to get it at any other electronics store. Maybe even other brands of flux work just as well, but I needed to add something to my Digi-Key order to qualify for free shipping and this brand of flux was the first one I found. :)

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Sorry, i meant i can't seem to get it to work, i read the soldering article and i guess i'll have to try that. I'm glad to hear the remote will work. The locks cycle and everything when you ground that unconnected wire near the antenna motor/shaft, but the remote doesn't program.

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I stripped the bottom of the chip in my box with thinner and resoldered pretty much the whole thing, just like the instructions say. Worked great. Although I still have power locks that only work correctly when it's hot, normally only the drivers one works. It doesn't seem to have any effect on the RKE box, as the trunk button always works, and it has a pretty good range.

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Shane,

 

You have the RKE under the rear deck lid, inbetween the rear pass headreast and center light. I went to one of the local dealers and picked up two remotes from the used car dept for $10.00, they are easy to reprogram. I also have a RKE in my garage (I think - may have given it to TGPilot) if yours does not actually work.

 

Thomas

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The RKE box in my TGP looked like it had been previously worked on. A couple of the clips that hold the top removable plastic panel were broke off, and the solder joints on the IC's looked like they had been resoldered (looked nothing like the others).

It still doesn't work. I went through and resoldered every joint last night, and nothing worked. It wouldn't even cycle when the wire was grounded.. BUT, it would click when I pushed the unlock button on the doors.. weird. My trunk release doesn't work either. It had been unplugged at the mechanisim in the trunk, but after I plugged that back in, it still doesn't work.

Anyone have an extra (working) RKE box they want to part with? lol

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Shane,

 

I went to one of the local dealers and picked up two remotes from the used car dept for $10.00, they are easy to reprogram

 

Thomas

Used car dept? or the parts counter? Anyone have the P/N For the remote i need? I will just buy some new ones.

 

Shane

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They go for about $10 on Ebay. Look for "Pontiac Remote" on Ebay.

I assume they are the older looking ones like this:

i-1.JPG

 

I assume the newer ones won't work:

i-1.JPG

 

Shane

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Luke, this may sound dumb, but be sure to ground the green wire in the trunk to the screw on the antenna. I grounded it to the body, and areas on the antenna and nothing happened until I read the factory manual, and in there it says to use the screw. If you can see the thing clicking it might be good.

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Shane,

 

If you go to the Electrical Repair section on the w-body page it tells how to ground the receiver in the trunk (green wire I think, by the antenna).

 

Thomas

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