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Another Alternator down


Puggsley456
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Well, here's more specifics on the charging/voltage issue I posted earlier...

 

During the day (no headlights on) it does fine - very little, if any fluctuation in the volts gauge.

 

However with the headlights on it becomes noticeable, and the blinker makes it worse - the gauge actually fluctuates in sync with the blinker if I'm idling at a stop light. When the engine is under load (ie passing on a Highway) with headlights and blinker on, the fluctuations aren't noticeable.

 

However, if the car is in Park with the lights on, the fluctuations become minimal, even if I turn the blinker on it still doesn't get as wild as it does when the car is in Drive.

 

Does it sound like a pulley, or just a bum alternator, or merely the gauge itself?

 

Thanks,

Kevin

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It honestly sounds like a combination of problems. First thing I would do is have everything tested to see where you stand. Then I would probably address all your "Big 3" wires in case you have a bad ground somewhere. The the next step if you still have this problem would be to put a smaller pulley on there to give you more amperage at low rpm.

 

I have been in you situation many times before. I have always.....until now had problems with low voltage at idle. This does seem to have been resolved with a smaller pulley. Now my voltage stays constant no matter what rmp my engine is at.

 

But after you know eveything is ok with the alternator and battery....I would first look at the wireing....it will be the least expensive place to start.

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Well, I had the alternator and battery tested at Pep Boys this AM, and they say everything is behaving as it should.

 

Which wires should I look at?

 

Also, when I have the defroster on (and with the accompanying bump in RPMs), the problem goes away, which leads me to suspect that a smaller pulley may be the answer. What is the cost to change a pulley?

 

Thanks,

Kevin

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Well, I had the alternator and battery tested at Pep Boys this AM, and they say everything is behaving as it should.

 

Which wires should I look at?

 

Also, when I have the defroster on (and with the accompanying bump in RPMs), the problem goes away, which leads me to suspect that a smaller pulley may be the answer. What is the cost to change a pulley?

 

Thanks,

Kevin

 

This should awnswer most of your question regarding the upgrade of the "Big 3".

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801

 

Now as far as the pulley goes......you'll have to check out your local car electrical shop to see what they can get for you.

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My first mistake when I got my new alternator was buing a Bosch reman. lol....what a piece of shit. The alternator whines under the hood like no other.......dorwns out the sound of the engine at idle (after the lifters stop ticking when it warms up lol)....

 

Hell my lights dim at idle with full defrost, rear defrost, and headlights on :roll:

 

Good luck!

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yeah my alt is whining like nothing else, but hey Im still running 14.0v.

 

as far as pulleys, there was a thread about those, Ill see if I can find it cause I know it will help you out.

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A whining alt. means there is too much resistence. Its like trying to run a race while breathing through a straw. open it up with some nice OFC cable and let the power flow. Even a Bosch alt :x ....will charge if you got free flowing power. Oxidation can creep into even the best wiring though and resistence at any point can cause the wire to heat there and oxidize rapidly. this produces a green powdery oxidation to penetrate through the copper. then you want to replace that wire with a new one before it kills your regulater. that whine will heat up the alt so hot that it either kills the regulater or in my case, the alt was so powerful and well built the regulater held and the wire melted off the alt post.

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  • 3 weeks later...

try using an autolite from checker, they have a lifetime warranty. I used to have the same problem on a grand am and after switching to autolite havn't replaced another one yet.

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Garrett Powered you are so off the wall in your post why don'you find another forum that likes you starter an alternator. :evil:You are about the dumbest fusk that has ever posted on this forum. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: I mean it. :frown:

 

Yes our cars are hard on altenators but if you to to GA or OR and get the liftime warrenty it is well worth it, I've been through 7 in the last 11 years. Yea its a 30 minute change but you dont have to pay for them. Heck I just walk in with my old alternator and the manager just goes and gets me a new one.

 

Anyhow think about it. Been through about 11 coils and only paid for one. :biggrin:

 

Jud

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Garrett Powered you are so off the wall in your post why don'you find another forum that likes you starter an alternator. :evil:You are about the dumbest fusk that has ever posted on this forum. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: I mean it. :frown:

 

Yes our cars are hard on altenators but if you to to GA or OR and get the liftime warrenty it is well worth it, I've been through 7 in the last 11 years. Yea its a 30 minute change but you dont have to pay for them. Heck I just walk in with my old alternator and the manager just goes and gets me a new one.

 

Anyhow think about it. Been through about 11 coils and only paid for one. :biggrin:

 

Jud

I appreciate the INPUT from someone who I ADMIRE and think is SO COOL!!! and I know you mean it. :sad: I wont talk back to you cause you are the expert here. :wink:
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