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'94+ brakes & Addco bar installed *pics*


Guest TurboSedan
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Guest TurboSedan

finally got the '94+ rear brake conversion done today and i succesfully mounted the Addco bar :)

 

here is what i had to start with...safe to say the old calipers were seized eh? the old sway bar was about as big as my pinky finger.

 

DSC02383.JPG

 

and this is how it is now:

 

DSC02389.JPG

 

this is the modified '90 brake hose. i cut the bracket off of the brake hose with a Dremel since it wasn't going to be used anymore. you can see how i straightened the metal section out with a hammer. the metal section previously had an almost 90* bend in it:

http://www.turbosedan.com/ste/brakes_susp/DSC02384.JPG

 

new brakes are installed, now to get the Addco mounted up:

http://www.turbosedan.com/ste/brakes_susp/DSC02385.JPG

 

i was thinking about using stock GM inner hangers (from a '95 Brickyard Monte w/22mm bar) but i decided to use the Addco hangers & poly bushings instead (thanks Paul!). i had to cut the stock hanger bracket off with a Dremel and then the Addco hanger bolts right on:

http://www.turbosedan.com/ste/brakes_susp/DSC02387.JPG

 

i had to use GM outer clamps & bushings (from a '95 Brickyard Monte). the holes in the Addco clamps were not spaced right and wouldn't fit over the lower strut bolts :? i'll have to grind out the holes in the Addco clamps before i can use them. these GM clamps and bushings space the bar further away from the strut (since the bushing is 'taller') but so far it looks like it will work fine this way:

http://www.turbosedan.com/ste/brakes_susp/DSC02388.JPG

 

with the car raised off the ground there is about 1" of clearance between the bar and the two big bolts for the lateral arms near the center of the car. with the car on the ground there is just over 1/2" clearance. that should be enough clearance, but using the Addco outer clamps & bushings would probably give me another 1/2" of clearance here :

http://www.turbosedan.com/ste/brakes_susp/DSC02397.JPG

http://www.turbosedan.com/ste/brakes_susp/DSC02400.JPG

 

with the car raised off the ground there is NO clearance between the bar and the lower strut. after i put the wheels back on and put the car on the ground it looks like i have about 1/8" clearance between the bar and the strut on both sides. however, the alignment is wayyy off (see below). i'm hoping that i'll have more clearance after the rear end is aligned:

http://www.turbosedan.com/ste/brakes_susp/DSC02398.JPG

http://www.turbosedan.com/ste/brakes_susp/DSC02399.JPG

with car on ground...hard to see but there is ~1/8" clearance:

http://www.turbosedan.com/ste/brakes_susp/DSC02401.JPG

 

like i said, the alignment is way off. i am usually able to get it close by pushing in on the top of the rotor and pulling outwards on the bottom of the rotor while my brother tightens up the strut bolts, but this wasn't possible with the Addco bar in there:

http://www.turbosedan.com/ste/brakes_susp/DSC02402.JPG

http://www.turbosedan.com/ste/brakes_susp/DSC02403.JPG :lol:

http://www.turbosedan.com/ste/brakes_susp/DSC02404.JPG

 

hopefully the car can be aligned with the Addco bar in place. if not i'll just have to get the revised Addco bar.

 

i can't wait to get rid of the 4x4 stance. i have almost everything ready to lower the front and upgrade the front brakes, but i still need to buy the FFP coilovers. i also have a NICE set of white GP 5-spoke wheels that will be going on the car but i still need to buy a set of 245/50s.

DSC02405.JPG

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sweet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! how's it stop???

 

I personaly think the sway bar is of use only if you delete the monoleaf. so you may not really enjoy it until then... but begone with that 4x4 crap!!!!

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Guest TurboSedan
sweet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! how's it stop???

 

I personaly think the sway bar is of use only if you delete the monoleaf. so you may not really enjoy it until then... but begone with that 4x4 crap!!!!

 

i'm not sure yet. hope to be driving the car by March. i'd like to paint ALL of the suspension parts (front & rear) with POR-15 when i install the Intrax springs and FFP coilovers. i'll be painting the calipers too of course. doesn't look so great right now but it will soon.

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LOL! :lol2: :willynilly: ! poor TSTE! :lol:

 

Josh, looks like attacking it the same way I'm attacking mine.. except backwards. I'm going to pull and rebuild my motor and go over the entire front end, and eventually work my way to the rear. Well, not the whole front end, not now, but eventually. the only thing I don't plan on replacing is the rack. it's getting new tie rods and balljoints during this crusade, as well as pulling the subframe and control arms and sanding/por15ing the crap out of them. Once funding is back up a little bit I want to rebuild some '96+ strut towers and through them on. they'll get the KYBs that are in there now, hopefully some Intraxes, as well as new hubs and of course, new brakes. I want this things rack to be TIGHT :lol:

 

after all that's done, it's time to go over the rear. Not sure what yet, '94+ brakes, new hubs, Aweb's rear STB and the GMPP trailing arms, but besides that not sure how I'm going to tackle the suspension itself. I'm pretty sure I'll be throwing the crosslaces on, but probably not still in black trim. I really miss the look of those fat 245s.

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Got any part #'s for the Brickyard Monte outer clamps?

 

So is the revised ADDCO bar bent differently than the one you have? I sure the "f" hope so, 'cause I plan on ordering one when I buy the FFP C/O's and don't want any clearance/alignment issues...

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Guest TurboSedan

yeah i had to start with the rear. obviously i had NO brakes back there. i also had the Addco bar sitting in my garage for ~3 years so i thought now was the time to do it. i still have alot of work to do with the rear suspension though - FFP coilovers and KYBs, GMPP trailing arms and painting everything. i also need to install the '94+ parking brake cables i have. and new bushings everywhere of course...this car desperately needs new bushings for the lateral arms - they are dryrotted so bad :( i'm not sure if i'll need a rear STB yet (i don't want the car to have an oversteer problem). oh, i also installed a new Prior accumulator so i'm hoping the brakes should be a helluva lot better than they were. they were downright scary when i drove the car last October!

 

the front end is going to be redone in February. i have the '96 strut/knuckle assemblies and i've already gotten the old balljoints removed. my KYB strut mounts and boots should be here by Friday; then i can install my Intrax springs. hopefully i can buy new balljoints, 11.25" rotors and new pads the first week of February. i also have a 34mm front sway bar here waiting to go in. i still need to find out where i can get bushings for the front end though....hell i don't even know where to get them for the rear end.

 

anyways, the engine runs great and the transmission still shifts perfectly. all i need to do in the drivetrain department is get my crossover pipe rebuilt and put the 'new' turbo back on. later this year it will all be pulled out and gone through like i did with my Cutlass. no rebuild here, just new gaskets and seals everywhere, new oil pump etc. oh....and my Getrag 5-speed of course :D

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Guest TurboSedan
Got any part #'s for the Brickyard Monte outer clamps?

 

i think the outer clamp is the same regardless of sway bar size. i will check though...there is a part # stamped into them. obviously the bushing itself is different but i have no idea what the part# is for those.

 

So is the revised ADDCO bar bent differently than the one you have? I sure the "f" hope so, 'cause I plan on ordering one when I buy the FFP C/O's and don't want any clearance/alignment issues...

 

Paul has some pics here:

 

http://photobucket.com/albums/v476/pwmin/new%20sway%20bar/?start=20

 

although, the comparsion pics between the old and the new revised Addco bar aren't really easy to tell since one bar is right side up and one is upside down in the pics (at least that's what it looks like to me).

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Yayyyyyyyy!!!!!!!

I finally got my pics! :D

 

That car still looks damn nice from the side! The paint on the top is at least shiney, the paint that's still there. :lol: You should see my STE, the top is some shitty Macco paint job, looks flat white. :evil: I wish I could fix it, but....bah, I guess it just adds to the sleeper affect. :twisted:

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Why the hell IS the rear so high Josh???

 

I mean, it started out like this:

new1.jpg

 

Maybe it's the elevation?? :shrug: :lol:

Odd, should look great once you get it going! Can't wait for more pics. :mrgreen:

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Guest TurboSedan

honestly i don't know what happened :?: it has been that way ever since i pulled the wheels off a few months ago...the ride height and even the alignment just seemed to get worse (before i even touched the rear suspension). my only guess is that the rear suspension hasn't settled since i haven't driven it at all since i've had the wheels off.

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Guest TurboSedan
Not to jack post but that my jackstand? :lol: Forgot if you still had em. (don't need em just wondering lol)

 

Nice progress, I'll have to drop by and check it out sometime.

 

yeah i forgot i still had them :lol: i'm not using them so if you need them i'll drop them off or you can pick them up. all four of my jackstands are still sitting under Jeremy's Shelby Lancer. we've gotten a ton of work done to the Shelby so it should be coming off the jackstands this week.

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Monte Carlo Z34 GM part no. bracket: 10259660

bushing: 10270253

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2192176/8

 

the bushing is just a tad small, but it works.

 

 

lookin good. the sway bar will help some even with the leaf but the leaf does some of what the sway bar does also. shane never had any problems with the addco leaf on his lumina and it was lowered in the rear factory style :lol: (which btw he doesnt have anymore :( )

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honestly i don't know what happened :?: it has been that way ever since i pulled the wheels off a few months ago...the ride height and even the alignment just seemed to get worse (before i even touched the rear suspension). my only guess is that the rear suspension hasn't settled since i haven't driven it at all since i've had the wheels off.

 

Yeah, that explains it. When you jack it up and the wheels hang, the way the control arms are hinged makes the track width decrease. When you set the car back down on the ground, the friction of the tires on the pavement prevents the tires from moving outward, preventing the car from lowering. Drive it, and it will settle back down to its original height.

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after lowering any of my cars back onto the ground, I drive (or usually push since usually the motors are dead) the car back and forth a few feet so the suspension settles and doesn't sit with a really bad camber angle.

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