Invasion1 Posted March 2, 2003 Report Share Posted March 2, 2003 ' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJB Posted March 2, 2003 Report Share Posted March 2, 2003 Tire Rack has performance pads and rotors. http://www.tirerack.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted March 2, 2003 Report Share Posted March 2, 2003 do the '94+ rear and '95+ front brake upgrade! the '88-'93 W-body rear calipers are JUNK and are notorious for seizeing up, which places more of the braking effort to the front causing the front rotors to warp. i got my rear calipers from a salvage yard '95 Regal for $10, and a set of new pads for any '94+ W-body from the parts store for $20 or so. you'll need the bigger 11" rear rotors also, but i think mine were only $22 each at Advance. the brake calipers bolt onto your existing knuckle. the catch is the e-brake, some people on here have modified their existing cable to fit the new calipers and some have just used the '94+ e-brake cable. most people don't notice any increased braking performance, the main reason to do the swap is the much better caliper design. and hey you get the bigger rotors to boot (10.1" vs 11"). the '95+ W-bodies recieved bigger front rotors - the '88-94 front rotors are only 10.5" diameter and '95+ got the much bigger 11.25" rotors. you need the whole strut tower/knuckle assembly from a '95+ car because the caliper brakets on the strut/knuckle are welded on in a different place to accomadate the bigger rotor. otherwise it is the same so the new strut/knuckle will bolt right into your car. the knuckles and pads are the same and can be used with the new rotors. i'm not really sure if the brake lines are different or not on the new cars?... another brake upgrade would be going with a bigger brake booster. i'm not really sure which year the W-body started with the bigger booster? the bigger booster can't be used in manual equipt cars becaust the clutch master cylinder gets in the way i'm ordering all of my brake parts from tirerack.com for a '96 Cutlass Supreme. EBC Greenstuff pads, SS braided brake hoses, and 2 new rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted March 2, 2003 Report Share Posted March 2, 2003 Calipers don't warp guy ANother option to help with the rear calipers, is to get the stainless steel slider kit (AKA pins) they won't sieze up like the steel sliders do. I bought reman rear calipers at autozone, they use a good rebuilding company, and they give anodized aluminum sliders, which arent as good as stainless steel, but they've held up pretty well for me. The problem I have now with the rear calipers, is that one of the e-brake levers keeps siezing up partially and ruins a good set of pads, so I disconnected it on that side and don't bother with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted March 3, 2003 Report Share Posted March 3, 2003 Calipers don't warp guy hahahahah duh..... i meant rotors of course... joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crc Posted March 3, 2003 Report Share Posted March 3, 2003 If the sliders are your only problem then don't replace the calipers.. That's an absolute waste of money.. The OEM calipers are actually pretty damn indestructible except for those badly designed sliders. When I got my cutty I replaced the sliders on the rears (along with new rotors) and even though my rear calipers were caked with rust (because of previous owner's poor maintenance and also age), after I refurbished them they worked %100.. and are still going 4 years now.. I've had to only replace the pads in those years.. I have yet to find anything bad with the fronts.. they're solid.. I bought a small kit with new S-S sliders for both sides.. Hell'va lot cheaper than getting new calipers (even old, junkyard replacements) If you're gonna work on the sliders might as well refurbish your calipers, take them apart and replace the inner seals, grease the piston, and after that's done check your brake fluid while you're bleeding, also your brake lines, and e-brake cable. :?: I have had to replace the rear brake calipers 2 times in the last 9 months on my 1992 Cutlass and once on my 1993 Cutlass Convertable the front have not faired much better. some opperation called Parts Master makes these junk calipers and i won't buy them anymore. Can someone give me a name or source for better front and rear W-body brake calipers? I have to change the the front and rear on the 1992 and the rear on the 1993 thanks Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patgizz Posted March 3, 2003 Report Share Posted March 3, 2003 and the stainless slider kit still sucks and freezes up, believe me i tried it. started buying rear calipers at autozone cause they come with all the e-brake stuff attached, and anti-seize the hell out of the pins and sliders and theyll last a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timoiii Posted March 5, 2003 Report Share Posted March 5, 2003 My father went shopping on my behalf and found a set of rear calipers with brackets from a 96 GP for $50 (everything but the knuckle bolts). I should have read the board closer to give him a target price. I guess it is somewhat of a consulation that they seem to be in excellent condition. For all of the Romany out there, I don't mean anything bad towards you. Timo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairdo12 Posted March 5, 2003 Report Share Posted March 5, 2003 my rear sliders ceased causeing the rear brakes to stop working, after that happend the front rotors warped. i still have the stock calipers on the front brakes and they work like champs, however for the rear calipers i just went to autozone and picked up their brand of caliper. Its got a lifetime warranty. only cost 40 bucks each after returning the old ones for the core charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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