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Component speaker sets- worth it?


Brian P
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I'm looking around for a 6.5" set for the fronts and I'm looking at Alpines in particular (not limited to) but they carry similar models of coaxials or component sets. I haven't heard them side by side (best buy only has the coaxials on display) how much better/clearer do they actually sound?

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Well...the Alpine Type-R coxials sound pretty good, but the main advantage of components is in the crossovers, which make it so the tweeter only plays high frequencies and the woofer lower frequiences. Therefore allowing higher volume levels with less distortion

 

Some coaxials, like Infinity Kappas, and Polk MOMOs have crossovers built in

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The advantage of having components rather than just coaxil speakers is that you are splitting up the sounds throughout the speakers. Basically, you will be albe to have your highs coming from the tweeter, and the lows coming from the larger speaker itself. The crossover that comes with it doesn't allow the frequencies that the certain speaker cannot normally play, or play well, come to that speaker. Thus, this increases the life of the speakers, and the sound will be more clear. Also, this allows you to set up a "sound stage" in your vehicle. For optimum sound quality, put the woofer down in the door panel, and have the tweeter sound as if it is coming at you from the dashboard area (placing them on top of the door panels facing them across the car works, custom a-pillars work :wink: , aiming them at the windshield then having the sound bounce back works as well).

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but I always thought a coaxial speaker won't allow hi's to come thru the woofer? At least the Alpine coaxials? I tried the type R's at best buy and wasn't too impressed since it seemed to be all about bass output and lack of hi's. Also some component sets I notice the tweeter is pretty tiny. Can this reproduce sound accurately, or will I be hearing just lo's and extreme hi's?

 

I'll link ya to the speakers I'm considering.

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If they are the Type-R's that I'm thinking of, I sell them at work too (I work in car stereo at Best Buy as well). Some coaxils do have built in crossovers, but there not the greatest. Also, remember that the EQ that they stereo these speakers are based off of are on a flat EQ, so you can adjust the treble and bass levels as you please.

 

As for speaker size, I wouldn't worry about it too much. I have a set of infinity kappa 5.25" components in my Z34 right now. It came with a 1" tweeter. You really don't need anything bigger than that, as its not reproducing any bass (the bigger the speaker, generally the deaper the note). I personally want 6.5" components, but that will wait until I get my employee discount on the Alpine stuff :D

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get rockford fosgate components. they used to be $200 at best buy, but i think they are clearing them out for 129 or something. they are much better sounding than alpines type r components. much nicer vocals and better clarity.

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yeah when's that discount kicking in? :hint: LOL

 

Check these:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5768080177&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

 

vs

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5767791844&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

 

I have the sps-690A's in the rear (6x9's) they're very good, but they do lack a little in hi's.

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get rockford fosgate components. they used to be $200 at best buy, but i think they are clearing them out for 129 or something. they are much better sounding than alpines type r components. much nicer vocals and better clarity.

 

really eh? I might have to go to best buy again today, fucking kids that work there complaining that I'm playing them too loud. best buy added RF amps to every display speaker so you could literally blow them up if you want!

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but I always thought a coaxial speaker won't allow hi's to come thru the woofer? At least the Alpine coaxials?

 

No...they don't

 

There has to be a crossover to split up the frequincies, and not even the Type R coxials has crossovers, let alone the Type S ones you posted.

 

I would not buy a set of speakers without crossovers, because I like turning up my music pretty loud, so I'd choose the components you posted above

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yeah thats the thing I turn up the stereo all the time, and clarity is something I look for. I'm off to worst buy to see what they have maybe I won't get harassed by the stereo minions.

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ok just got back.... they didn't have the component Type S's around but they did have the Type R's ($230 on "sale") and they were....eh....I dunno. Not that they sounded BAD but compared to the others, they were "lower" in sound I guess. Yeah the "car audio experts" were all over me telling me the "Alpine guy" thinks the Kenwoods are better, and the JVC and Sony headunits are the best. Worst buy should have a "Shut the fuck up" option for customers.

 

The RF components were $180 on "sale" (yeah right) and they were "alright", not for the price though. I did notice however the '05 Pioneer speakers sound a lot clearer than the '04's.

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I guess it's really up to you on what you want to go with. Me personally, I would go with a set of component speakers for sure in the front, that way you can set up your stereo system and image it to how you like.

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I'm still probably going to regardless. Also what if I were to run a xover with the lows going to an existing coaxial, and hi's going to a separate tweeter? Same idea? Because I have a set of Pioneer 6.5's (02 model?) which was the top of the line coaxial from Pioneer. Would be nice to keep them around yet.

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I'm still probably going to regardless. Also what if I were to run a xover with the lows going to an existing coaxial, and hi's going to a separate tweeter? Same idea? Because I have a set of Pioneer 6.5's (02 model?) which was the top of the line coaxial from Pioneer. Would be nice to keep them around yet.

 

Could... but what would you do with the tweeter that is built into it? That's the only problem with that. I mean, if you want to, you can cut the positive wire that runs to the tweeter and put an inline bass blocker in there, that way it only gets the highs.

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The advantage of having components rather than just coaxil speakers is that you are splitting up the sounds throughout the speakers. Basically, you will be albe to have your highs coming from the tweeter, and the lows coming from the larger speaker itself. The crossover that comes with it doesn't allow the frequencies that the certain speaker cannot normally play, or play well, come to that speaker. Thus, this increases the life of the speakers, and the sound will be more clear. Also, this allows you to set up a "sound stage" in your vehicle. For optimum sound quality, put the woofer down in the door panel, and have the tweeter sound as if it is coming at you from the dashboard area (placing them on top of the door panels facing them across the car works, custom a-pillars work :wink: , aiming them at the windshield then having the sound bounce back works as well).

 

Actually, the upper door panels and dash are one of the worst places for tweeters imaging-wise. For best imaging, you want the tweeters as equidistant from the listening position as possible, and you'll get better results with the tweeters low in the doors or in the kick panel area. If the tweeters sound too low, then they can be supplemented with additional tweeters placed up high, but attenuated so they don't overpower the main tweeters.

http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/learningcenter/car/speakers_imaging.html

 

Most coax speakers don't have real crossovers, just a tiny capacitor inline with the tweeter that works as a high-pass filter. You can sometimes get coax speakers that can be used with external crossovers as well. Usually those are the ones that are advertised as coax that can be converted to components. The old JBL P-632's were like that. The placement of the tweeters also made them a point-source driver (speaker with the tweeter placed right inside the dome of the woofer).

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Actually, the upper door panels and dash are one of the worst places for tweeters imaging-wise. For best imaging, you want the tweeters as equidistant from the listening position as possible, and you'll get better results with the tweeters low in the doors or in the kick panel area. If the tweeters sound too low, then they can be supplemented with additional tweeters placed up high, but attenuated so they don't overpower the main tweeters.

 

I have always been told by the guys who set up there cars for SQ that you want the sound to seem as if it is coming at you from the top of the dashboard area.

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I have always been told by the guys who set up there cars for SQ that you want the sound to seem as if it is coming at you from the top of the dashboard area.

 

Hmmm, but the car audio nerds on the Internet agree with the Crutchfield link, that getting the tweeters as equidistant as possible is the most important. These are car audio nerds that spend big bucks for Dynaudio, Focal, Seas, Scanspeak, and other less common brands. They do say you can raise your sound stage using additional tweeters, but the main ones should be as equidistant as possible which in most cases, means down low and in the kick panel area if possible.

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I have always been told by the guys who set up there cars for SQ that you want the sound to seem as if it is coming at you from the top of the dashboard area.

 

Hmmm, but the car audio nerds on the Internet agree with the Crutchfield link, that getting the tweeters as equidistant as possible is the most important. These are car audio nerds that spend big bucks for Dynaudio, Focal, Seas, Scanspeak, and other less common brands. They do say you can raise your sound stage using additional tweeters, but the main ones should be as equidistant as possible which in most cases, means down low and in the kick panel area if possible.

 

Yeah, I knew about the equidistance part, and it makes really good sense too. I reckon I'll have to read up more. Thanks Shawn.

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I have always been told by the guys who set up there cars for SQ that you want the sound to seem as if it is coming at you from the top of the dashboard area.

 

Hmmm, but the car audio nerds on the Internet agree with the Crutchfield link, that getting the tweeters as equidistant as possible is the most important. These are car audio nerds that spend big bucks for Dynaudio, Focal, Seas, Scanspeak, and other less common brands. They do say you can raise your sound stage using additional tweeters, but the main ones should be as equidistant as possible which in most cases, means down low and in the kick panel area if possible.

 

 

i got THE CAR STEREO COOKBOOK and it also says to put the speakers close to the woofers...its no more then like 6" away it says...

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i got THE CAR STEREO COOKBOOK and it also says to put the speakers close to the woofers...its no more then like 6" away it says...

 

Yep, I remember the car audio nerds talking about that a few years ago. Something about since the woofer is really a mid-woofer and also supplies the middle frequencies, you don't want the tweeter and mid-woofer's distance to your ears being too different. It has to do with timing being off. At any rate, the difference would just be in milliseconds, but car audio nerds worry about that kind of stuff.

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