slick Posted March 3, 2005 Report Share Posted March 3, 2005 Ok, any good way of checking them? Do they make any sounds when they are going bad? I know the balljoints are bad, and I will be replacing them next week while on spring break. But... if I'm working on my suspension, I might as well replace them if they are bad too. Also, if they are bad, how do I go about replacing those as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted March 3, 2005 Report Share Posted March 3, 2005 If you mark the spot where the old one screws on, you might not "need" an alignment, I think. Easy way to check them is jack the car up grab the wheel, if it has side to side play, they're probably bad. Up and down play is balljoints Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2005 Ok, i'll put my car up on the jack tomorrow and check it out. They don't sound all that hard to replace. How long should i expect them to take? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2005 Thats not bad at all. I guess if I have any questions I can always ask you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted March 3, 2005 Report Share Posted March 3, 2005 outter tie rods are a simple job, just a bitch if they're rusted on tight. If you get a Haynes/Chiltons manual they are good for the pictures and tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted March 3, 2005 Report Share Posted March 3, 2005 I'm gonna chime in and say definitely go with the MOOG's. I had a set put on the Loomie last year when I discovered one of the non-greasable stock outer tie rods rusted and almost falling apart. I attempted to get them off myself, but they were rusted on there pretty good, so I took it to a shop to have them replaced (I bought the MOOG's from carparts.com.) Even if you mark the spot where the old tie rod sat on the shaft, your alignment will still be off. Marking the spot will get you close enough to where you probably won't notice how far off the alignment is, but I wouldn't drive around like that for very long. It'll at least be enough to get you to the shop to get 'er aligned... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted March 3, 2005 Report Share Posted March 3, 2005 Using that balljoint removal tool makes disconnecting the outer tierod much easier too. You can also use a pitman arm puller. It should be easier to pull a very rusted outer tierod with a screw type puller than a pickle fork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canada Posted March 3, 2005 Report Share Posted March 3, 2005 I don't like to do the pickle fork method....its bad for balljoints, granted, you are replacing them, but there are times you need to remove the balljoint when you aren't replacing them. I take my small ballpen and hold it against the housing of whatever shaft I'm trying to remove. Then, hit the ballpen with my 3 lb hammer. 5-6 good soild hits, and it should be loose enough you can remove it by hand or with a pry bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2005 Well... just came in from outside. Took some nice pictures. Decided to just put them on cardomain. Anyways, pictures: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2005 So, anyone got some useful PN's for me? I allready have the balljoints, there greaseable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted March 3, 2005 Report Share Posted March 3, 2005 !!!!!!!!!!!! nice sway bar! Jesus christ. Thats easy to fix though, esp with teh ball joint out so the control arm will move somewhat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2005 !!!!!!!!!!!! nice sway bar! Jesus christ. Thats easy to fix though, esp with teh ball joint out so the control arm will move somewhat. I thought you guys would like that!! Is there a part number for that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2005 Bump... I won't be able to make it to my computer this weekend. And, I'm heading out of town early sunday, getting back wednesday. Thursday I plan on picking up the parts and working on the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted March 4, 2005 Report Share Posted March 4, 2005 Hey, Slick, that sway bar mount looks like it poly, so you should get another poly one to replace it. FWIW: I know josh replaced the tierods and balljoints about 2 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canada Posted March 4, 2005 Report Share Posted March 4, 2005 I would go to Auto Zone and get a set of the generic brackets.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2005 Hey, Slick, that sway bar mount looks like it poly, so you should get another poly one to replace it. FWIW: I know josh replaced the tierods and balljoints about 2 years ago. Yeah, he probably did, but there bad again. Those brackets, do I just ask for swaybar end brackets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2005 Any tips on loosening that damn bolt on the bottom of the balljoint? It's the one with the cotter pin in it. BTW, hand tools in cold weather suck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted March 11, 2005 Report Share Posted March 11, 2005 Any tips on loosening that damn bolt on the bottom of the balljoint? It's the one with the cotter pin in it. BTW, hand tools in cold weather suck. Breaker bar, pipe around a wrench works great too. Did you try a hammer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2005 Any tips on loosening that damn bolt on the bottom of the balljoint? It's the one with the cotter pin in it. BTW, hand tools in cold weather suck. Breaker bar, pipe around a wrench works great too. Did you try a hammer? I put some PB Blaster on it in hopes of it eating away some of the grease and rust, but that didn't help. Tapped it with a hammer several times as well. I guess I need to pick up a pipe for a cheap breaker bar(hey, it works, just don't have one here at college yet). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted March 12, 2005 Report Share Posted March 12, 2005 Yeah, a breaker bar should work perfect for that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth Posted March 21, 2005 Report Share Posted March 21, 2005 umm sorry for being dumb but is that the tierod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2005 umm sorry for being dumb but is that the tierod Yes. And I still have not gotten around to replacing them yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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