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Invasion1
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Footnote: Filter has molded-in velocity stack

 

Can you see how steep the velocity stack is? If you can measure the largest portion of the opening down to where it meets the turbo inlet. Not a big deal just curious to know what K&N considers to be a velocity stack.

 

It looks in the picture that there is a plug in the center at the top. If it is...what size I.D. is it?

 

Good looking filter...got pics of it installed? 8)

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That one will work with a stock chip :) . Looks as though you can still stick a hole in the end and get the proper crankcase evacuation tube run into it, I am a strong supporter of the points surrounding this crankcase evacuation approach!! To reiterate, all engines with gapped rings have combustion chamber blow-by, and that blow-by to the crankcase must be evacuated! Blow-by is made up of both fuel/fuel diluted oil before the combustion process (compression stroke) and exhaust (with some fuel as boosted A/F is rich) after the combustion process (power stroke), this is a contaminate to the oiling system. But we also must evacuate the crankcase to get other contaminants out such as oil fumes coming out of the oil from hot spots, moisture (lots of it after starting a cold engine) and etc. Next is the pressure that blow-by can cause in the crankcase, that can disturb the sealing of the piston rings which can resulting in increased oil consumption and accelerated wear at the rings, and less power from improper sealing of those rings. Now for those few running gap-less rings, there is still the contaminants of moisture and others that need to be evacuated, moisture not only causes rusting inside an engine but also when mixed with any blow-by that does occur (there still is a little) causes acid to be formed with the constituents in the exhaust (blow-by again), which should go without saying is more of a concern in a normal “gapped†piston ring setup. In a gapped and gap-less setup there is still fuel diluting of oil at the cylinder walls, rings and piston sides during cold start-up and warm-up, this gasoline diluted oil will still find its way into the crankcase as the piston travels up and down, and will mostly be removed if there is a crankcase evacuation system in place.

 

After some thought by people here I am sure there will be those who come up with concerns regarding oil mist entering the air filter/intake stream, but is insignificant as compared to the importance of evacuating the crankcase, but if you still obsess or are anal about such things, then get an oil catch can 8) !!

 

Jeff M

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Well like so many important facts that are left out (like aftermarket companies even selling crankcase breather filters :evil: ), what is the CFM rating of their air filters??????????? Idiots or more so what idiots they think we are!!! The filter I selected has 91 sq inches of pleated surface area (filter media not filter body size is 6.5 inches long, 14 inches around), though bigger is always better and this one fits tight on some TGPs/TSTEs, bigger is hard to fit in without custom work and most people just want an easy drop-in-place setup. Smaller fits but can limit the air flow potential to the turbo, and air flow will become worse as the filter does its job of collecting dust and dirt and fuzz etc. So the largest you can fit will flow the best always, and will flow more compared to a smaller unit as it loads up with junk until people remember to clean and retreat it :lol: !!! So not sure just how long or fat this is as compared to the ones I selected but that one might be less at air flow ratings clean/dirty, it could work but without some cfm ratings or personal tests, I can't say for sure.

 

Jeff M

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fair enough.....

 

so are you saying you don't know???

 

 

:shock:

 

 

just jerking ya around.... :wink:

 

thanks for the input

 

Dave

 

Who you calling a Jerk? :lol: So you want a guarantee with that huh? :) I prefer the long winded replies so owners have enough info to access for themselves and make their own decisions 8) (THATS why his posts are always so fricking long!!! now I know why, gee thanks :roll: :lol: ). Air flow for an approximate 260 hp potential, 275 lb.ft of torque is 260hp X 1.5 or 400 cfm minimum!

 

Jeff M

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thank you sir and I got the desired response i was looking for :read:

 

Just an FYI 8) , something about me and a few others is we post in general to everyone not just the one asking the questions, that since its understood others will read this, so the info included in a responds at times is also a reply/reiteration to past talks from any member(s) regarding a similar topic, and elaborated in general based on anticipating others thinking and having questions after reading a topic’s replies, and who knows maybe even someone will use the search feature and save re-typing such info again :lol: So most of my posts though answering a members questions, inevitably will include more than that member bargained for :lol: I guess since I have been on a TGP board since 1995 I am able to anticipate the replies and questions that will result from talks like these, though I don't think that is such a grand observation by me :P, should be common sense.

 

So just something to let you know, and those others who are listening why I talk the way I do :lol:.

 

Jeff M

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Davis, sorry, back on topic!! The CFM I gave you is all that is needed, so he should be able to confirm this air filter or recommend another of similar size. Him asking rpms and boost is only part of what makes up the breathing/CFM of an engine, I assume he asked the Liters/Cubic Inches.....if not then the differences of 5,000 rpms and 10 psi of boost on a little 4 cylinder verses 5,000 rpms on a V10 with a T100 turbo running 10 psi of boost is going to make me wonder about this guy :roll:

 

Jeff M

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