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The fronts are not adjustable *out-of-the-box*, one has to use a dremel tool to open up (oval) the 3 front shock tower holes inwards to get a negative adjustment. At the rear one needs to (again) oval the thru holes at the bottom of the strut (inwards) to allow the knuckle to be moved *inwards* to get a more desirable negative setting. I'm sure that negative at both ends will change the cars handling characteristics to your liking.

Given what you're doing with the car going bigger can't hurt, when you say you've spun out the car because of the brakes is that because the tail is loose & breaks free in a corner under braking? Being an FWD car the tail is more likely to follow the front where the front goes as the the back end is not driving the car. Something else to consider is the factory camber the cars alignment is set to, it's not slalom considered at all, the fronts are set to a .8 positive camber setting while the rears are at just on the + side of 0. If you were to go to a negative setting on both the front & rear I'm sure you see a far more responsive & more neutral response.

If it's anything like my car, forget about replacing that brake line and using the same routing as the factory without a lot of work and effort. You'd have to drop the subframe and disconnect the rack and pinion. On a lift at a garage with a dealer mechanic, it's not horrible, but expect at least $200-$300+ extra for the subframe dropping and lifting. Plus, GM may still have the OEM line for your car. GM had all but one of all of the brake lines for my car (rear right). Note, they are not cheap - by any means! One issue is that GM uses an integral flex hose in the lines. But, if you want, you can use your original brake lines and cut off and splice after that flex hose connection. If you are going to replace the brake line, then I suggest running the brake line up top, along the top of the firewall, and then run it down the right fender. That's how Ford does it for the Fox (85-93) Mustangs. See the last picture to see what I'm talking about. You can kinda see the right front and the rear brake lines right below the hinge (on the picture on the left) in the engine bay, right at the firewall. Ford uses a brake line union. I on the rear brake line, I have a small black proportioning valve because I have the '95 Cobra brakes (and ABS) on my '86 Mustang. If you do the above, make very sure: 1) You use some thermal sleeve/wrap light I did (I cut mine and used tie wraps). 2) Secure the brake line to the firewall very well in many places. You do not want the brake line to vibrate and flex - and create stress points. Home Depot has some steel rubber lined hose clamps. They sell them near the electrical switches. It's a good idea to lightly put a few tie wraps around that rubber portion to prevent it from wiggling off over the years. See the 2nd to last picture to see what I'm talking about. Original brake line: New replacement brake line from GM (after being coated with POR-15): Thermal wrap I used to further protect the brake line: Thermal wrap installed on the new brake line: Installed new brake line - view #1: Installed new brake line - view #2: Hose clamps that I have used, near center, near the top of the picture: NOTE: For the clamp use below, the clamps are used to limit/modify the movement of the brake hose when the wheel is fully turned to prevent the hose from rubbing against the wider front tires. As shown, for this specific use, the clamps are not tight, nor are they suppose to be tight. For a hard brake line, you want the hose clamps *tight* against the hard brake line. Shows the routing of the right and rear brake lines in a "Fox" Mustang. Note the two brake lines below the hood hing on the left side of the picture. One has a brake line union, the other a prop valve (for the rear brakes - one line for both rear brakes in a Fox Mustang): Example of a rubber lined hose clamp: Note, get the correct size as needed. KMC Stampings COL Series Aluminum Loop Hose Clamp, Rubber Cushion, 3/8" Clamp ID, 1/2" Band Width, 1/32" Band Thickness http://www.amazon.com/KMC-Stampings-Aluminum-Cushion-Thickness/dp/B005LW4P58 BTW, when I did the engine-swap/car-restore on my 2000 olds, I ended up replacing *100%* of the brake lines. And I mean *100%*! That includes the ones between the MC and the ABS, even though they looked okay. The right front brake line leaked as soon as I touched it. So, I replaced all of the front brake lines. After I finished the engine, a side brake line went. Argg! And, the right rear didn't look good. So, I decided that my life wasn't worth risking on the 10+ year old POS GM quailty brake lines. And, I replaced every remaining brake line in the car. I used POR-15 on every brake line. I covered the right front with thermal sleeves to protect it from the heat of the exhaust manifold. From GM, the right-front brake line does come thermal wrap in the center portion of the brake line. But, IMHO, GM was way too limited in the sections they protected with thermal wrap. Also, GM didn't have any additional protection for where the brake line goes behind the steering shaft - and gets covered in dirt, snow, salt, rain, and moisture. For the right rear, I used fuel line to further protect the brake line that also had POR-15 on it. It's in a position that gets snow/salt sitting on it during the winter. Good Luck!