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1. Any fuel system with ethanol in it will be suspect after awhile of no use. In my experience(which isnt a yuge amount but still...) a fuel pump either works or it doesnt. If your getting only part of the PSI you need then I`d look at the filter or some other spot a blockage might occur first. 2. Yes, the injectors wont function right without good fuel PSI 3. If your getting 12V to the fuel pump with the key ON then the relay is working.

149,996mi I`m thinking about registering for a spot at the Good Guys show in Lebanon, TN next month. Its now open to all American cars `99 and earlier.

After 2 years of neglect, I finally had an opportunity to get the W cars out. I started with the '94 Cutlass Supreme and found a no start issue. Cranks but doesn't start. Put the fuel pressure guage on the rail and no pressure. I don't hear the pump when turning on the key. I moved onto the '95 and it cranked for a while and then finally started but ran rough with a miss. Checked all the plugs and they looked good. Verified spark from the all the coils. I hooked up the fuel pressure guage and it only pumps up to 22#. Started the car and it came up to 32#. I shut the car off and the pressure slowly bled off over the next 30 minutes to 22# and held there. I decided to walk away and start a '92 Custom Cruiser and guess what - cranks but won't fire. The fuel pump is not working there, either. Questions are these: 1) Is it typical for these pumps to not want to work after setting for a couple of years? If so, is there a way to resurrect or are they toast? 2) 22# of fuel pressure appears to be about half of what it should be. I can see that it might cause a hard to start situation. Running at 32#, is that low enough to cause a rough running situation? 3) If I bypass the pump relay, how high should I expect the pressure to go? I don't relish dropping a bunch of fuel tanks if I don't have to.

The problem could be with the switch if the contacts have gone bad. If you have a multimeter you should be able to test it for continuity.

Mine's still working, which is a good thing since I can't find one.:( Guess I'll keep my eyes open for a replacement as I'm sure I'll need one at some point. In the mean time I get to try and figure out why my top will go down but not up on it's own. lol

So this is what I found and did to get my lights off. I was already 99% sure the 3rd brake light would not cause the dash lights to be on, which was true it was not the problem. So knowing the parking brake was working correctly and not causing the red brake light to come on I then removed the ABS fuse in the glove box area. This caused the red brake light to turn off after the car was started but it still turns on as it should during the start up cycle. But the ABS light was still on. I then removed the fuse under the hood for it as well as the discovered bad relay. I then took it out to run some errands and enjoy the sunshine. After a few stops the ABS light went out and I got a much better brake pedal. I was tempted to get a new relay but why bother with it past the point that I'm at now. It stops better then it did and the lights are now off for the first time since I've owned it. I'm guessing it was prob just a bad relay to begin with. Just wanted to give everyone a update. oh my 3rd brake light took 3 891 bulbs. (i went with the leds replacements)

Now that I think about it some more I SWEAR I had this same issue many years ago. As dumb as it sounds try bleeding the brakes, start with the couple bleeders on the ABS/Master and then go to all 4 wheels.

Check the obvious things, is the brake fluid level full? is the switch used to measure it working? Same goes for the parking brake pedal, try lifting on that to see if that causes the BRAKE light to go out High mount won't cause any of that on these cars. As for the ABS, yeah you need an appropriate scantool to read those codes. I use both a Tech1 or Tech2 to pull those codes, if you're anywhere near Pittsburgh I could pull them for you. Likely you have a couple separate issues, but on a 93' the ABS light is a non critical light, you just won't have any anti-lock is all.

The high mounted brake light won't cause the cluster warning lights to come on. For the park brake light check the parking brake cables tension to ensure that the park brake system when released has enough tension on the cables to disengage the warning light contact at the pedal assembly. As instructed you should get a scanner on the system, most likely (but not definitely) one or more of the wheel sensors has a compromised circuit issue.

You will probably need to scan the car to figure out what is going on. I would check your ground wires and connections around the ABS module. Look for corrosion and clean as needed.

The ABS and Brake light are on on my dash. They were on from the moment I got the car and put a new battery in it. I just did the rear brakes and did bleed the system. (Driver side outer pad was metal to metal.) The car stops fine with no weird noises (all though spongy, prob could use a new booster.) I did notice the 3rd brake light is out; will this cause those lights to come on? I have a scan tool obd2 I can get the adapter kit for it for $100 but if it's just the 3rd brake light I would rather spend the couple bucks there being that I just had to pay for a funeral and money is tight. Any other tips besides just unplugging the dash lights(that's not a fix.) Thanks in advance. Also This is a 93 vert with the 3.4L DOHC

If you have a set of the ST springs you'll find the drop at the front is approx 1.5 inches using the original rubber hardware, I had a set of those sitting on the shelf for more than 10 years. I couldn't find any Intrax at the time I was looking for drop springs, last year I finally did the cars suspension, the ST are a linear rate spring like the OEM springs. In my case that is better for the car where clearance is concerned seeing as the tires outer corners are directly under the wheelwell lip, spring compression can't allow contact between the tire & the fender lip, the other 3 bodylines don't display this issue as the fenders cover the wheels entirely. They do rider firmer, but to me that's not a negative seeing as (in my mind) the oem ride is far too soft. The new rear spring is as the chart shows 330lbs. per inch spring rate, this firms up the rear, along with the custom alignment the car corners more exactly, flatter, considerably less understeer. The car doesn't *float* anymore.

Very cool! I`m going to order one for the `94 when I go to put the ST springs on the front. I had that misconception I guess, I thought those were the only ones.

Pretty sure every one of these cars use this

yes indeed...

It's a misconception that one or all need to *go to* Birchmount Spring here near to me in Toronto to get a replacement steel leaf spring for their car. Any spring shop can fab up a replacement multi leaf arrangement, the shop just needs to know what spring rate you want, how many leaves you require (the fewer the better ..more than 1 leaf), the total length of the leaves, the ride height you're looking for. What you see below is what is under my car...the shop I approached arched the 2 leaves to the right height I wanted, seeing as this is a transverse spring each leaf on each side has to be tweeked to ensure that each side of the car's ride height is identical.

Gotcha. Thank you for the accurate description. I was just making a guess. So...the Z34's do use this sensor as well then?

*It basically adjust the steering feel when going thru a parking lot and then tightens up when on the highway or Interstate*. almost......lol, not quite.... the sensor is there to 1. disengage the a/c .... 2. send a signal to the ecm to raise the engine rpm when the vehicle speed is so slow that the engine rpm is to low to adequately assist the needed power steering pressure. When the pressure in the system drops to a pre determined pressure that switch opens, the ecm *sees* that & raises the engine rpm to increase the pump rpm & power steering pressure. The sensor is referred to as Idle Speed Power Steering Pressure Switch

Does anyone know if the 91-93 Z34's uses a speed sensor mounted on the steering racks? I know the GP and Cutlass did. It's part # 10096157/10204102 if they used them. Thank you.

Nice ride, these old cars really stand out in traffic now and when running good are still pretty easy on the MPGs. Ive read and been told by several that the coil over idea on the 1st gens is sort of sketchy due to the rear strut tower area not being reinforced to take that sort of load. A rear tower strut bar might help with that but it`ll have to be a custom made one. There used to be lowering spring options but I dont think those are anywhere out there now. IIRC ST made some for the front and Birchmont had a traverse option.

Welcome!! Nice Grand Prix. Clean ones are getting harder and harder to come by these days.

Hello, I’m new here but wanted to take the first step toward posting. As you can see in the title I have a 1991 Grand Prix. I just finished getting my DIY exhaust mocked up and ready to weld and I will try to post pictures of it soon as well as other things. I have all new KYB struts and just ordered the rest of the parts I need to build rear coil overs, with the intention of lowering the car a lot. Will start a thread on that soon. Glad to be here.

Great news!

Got her running boys!! Not only that, she runs tip top again!! It was timing all along. Fabbed some tools in my father in laws shop to replicate those in the Kent moore kit and worked like a charm. A big thank you to those who offered help and guidance through my first real foray into the 3.4L dohc joys and frustrations. It's been better than 12 yrs since my z34 and I never tackled projects like gaskets or timing on it. This is really a great group!!