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I think the rack in the International is not good anymore. I get a lot of kick back when going over driveway entries and such. The steering wheel will kick in my hand. What do you think? My steering wheel is off center and it definitely needs an alignment. I have a NOS rack, probably should just put it in and get all the suspension parts put in as well. The camber is off I feel too. The power steering pump is making an odd noise as well. I probably should have put in a new pump and lines when the drivetrain was out but didn't. IDK, maybe later on this year or next. I want to now focus on the STE this year. I've learned a lot from the Olds, won't make as many mistakes on the STE because of it.

What I was referring to is..is the steering wheel action the same in both directions, raise the front end off the ground & without the engine running turn the steering wheel full lock to lock.....is the amount of labor to turn the wheel the same in both directions? Now do the same with the engine running.... The OEM caster IS positive, the top of the strut is leaned to the rear of the car by default, as I stated the degree angle is approx 2.5 degrees. Comparing a gen 1 with a gen 2 is like comparing apples & oranges. Two completely different suspension designs, different rack designs. The 04 may very well be equipped with variable assist steering.

steering is tight in both directions when the car is not moving, I have checked the tie rods and rack for play and there is none/ very little (car has 186k miles on it) but once I start driving there is play when going to the right and the car likes to pull hard in that direction when there is a road crown. (I know that a little pull to the right is normal on a crowned road, but this one is much more aggressive) steering feels normal to the left which is a classic indicator of a positive caster angle. I know that the angle is positive, I just want to know what would cause a positive caster angle in the front of these cars. Could ball joints also cause the angle to be off from OEM spec? They dont have any play in them but I have some on the shelf from another car I could slap in easily. Also I dont know if this is related but the steering feels much more over boosted / easier to turn compared to my friends 04 grand prix.

Well, as I said one needs to get the vehicle up on an alignment rack to positively see what the measurements are. You state that the ball joints are not a question mark, are the struts freely turning? Are both strut bearings in proper working condition?....as in..*not dried out* *Assuming* that nothing is physically out of proper setting with the wheels *etc* ..is the rack healthy? Does the steering wheel freely move in both directions with the same amount of effort?

its definitely caster, not camber, if it was camber, I would be wearing tires, I have been driving it like this for over 15,000 miles and haven't had any tire wear. camber also doesn't affect the returnability of the steering whee. l don't have access to an alignment machine and last time I got it aligned the printer "wasnt working". I am just curious what could cause it to be off, because there aren't many things on these cars to affect that angle except for maybe the control arm bushings? I don't know.

sure you're not confusing Caster with Camber? Camber is the angle of the wheels vertical axis in relation to the vehicles vertical axis. Positive camber leans the top of the wheel outward (away) from the vehicle. Negative camber leans the top of the wheel inboard towards the vehicle. Caster is the vertical angle of the steering axis in relation to the vertical centreline thru the lower & upper ball joint position. Positive caster leans the steering axis to the rear whereas negative leans the same axis to the front. On these platform cars the Caster is generally 2.5 degrees positive. The OEM Camber is approx .75 degree positive, the max is 1.2 degrees positive. Generally both are not adjustable, one can alter the camber angle by ovalling out the 3 shock tower thru holes *across* the width of the car to dial in more negative camber or oval the holes longitudinally to alter the caster angle. In your case when was the last time the car was on an alignment rack to see what the settings are? Without the alignment rack measurements one is really just guessing at what the issue may be. Caster usually doesn't cause tire wear, but uneven side to side camber settings will.

Its enough work that you may as well just buy an LS4 car and call it a day. Unless you have access to the entire parts car its probably not worth the cost and trouble. And even then with the 4t65e they bolted to the LS4 its not a matter of if but when it gets demolished and needs a rebuild.

Not a swap for the faint-of-heart.

Voltage drop on the ground side is exactly like voltage drop on the positive side. The pump grounds through a wire, the wire has multiple connections which end up screwed to a body panel--perhaps under the seats. Then the body is the ground, which may be connected to the battery via the negative cable. At each junction, there's some resistance. Defective or undersized cables add to the resistance. So the ground side has it's own resistance in addition to whatever resistance is on the positive side.

I have a 2001 Buick Regal LS and I was wondering how much modification to the car it would take to put the front subframe and engine of the 2006 Chevrolet Impala SS with the 5.3 LS into the Buick. I would not be using any of the AWD or RWD versions of the car only the FWD car. Another question about it would be is how hard is it to find the Impala SS cars, and could I use a different LS powered FWD car for this project like the Monte Carlo variant. Another question is how much taller is the LS engine to the normal naturaly aspirated 3800 series engine. I want to make this car into esentally the ultimate sleeper so no exterior modifications would be allowed.

Hi this is a follow up to a thread I started last fall about alignment on these cars. I know that caster and camber are both non adjustable, on my car the caster on the right is definitely way too positive and it doesnt return to center when making a right turn. (Left turns it returns just fine) What are some things that could cause misaligned caster on these cars? The Car has never been in an accident, and it doesnt wear tires at all. my ball joints are good, my control arm bushings are cracked but its not wearing tires, what else could cause positive caster on these? There arent many failure points on these so i dont know why this issue is so hard to fix. Its a 95 grand prix

I’m a little confused about the voltage drop mentioned on the ground side. I understand the voltage drop from + battery terminal to plug at the pump but isn’t it all referenced from chassis ground? How are you measuring that drop? I did finally locate the pump prime connector and did notice that it’s a small gauge wire so it’s not going to handle extra loads very well. As far as fuel restrictions, I would think that even a restriction in the sock or filter would still allow pressure to build without the motor running. It just might take longer to build using the prime. In this case, the prime never gets above 22lbs at the rail and the pump sounds like it’s laboring. I’m guessing, at this point, it’s a low voltage issue or a pump going out. I hope to get it on a lift this week to take some voltage measurements. Thanks for all the info.

In-tank fuel pumps have two sections. There's the electric motor, and there's the pump. Low fuel pressure can be a worn/damaged pump section, or it can be poor voltage to the motor that spins the pump. It can also be a plugging fuel filter as said already. In a perfect world, nobody would drop the tank until they've verified that the pump is getting voltage and amperage sufficient for proper operation. Making this worse is that GM is known to use undersize wiring in the fuel pump circuit. My '92 and '93 Luminas each have about two volts of voltage drop (VD) on the supply side, and about one volt on the ground side. With 3 volts of VD, and battery voltage of 12.x; the pump is running off of only 9.x volts. Engine starts, alternator jumps the voltage to 14.x; pump is still only getting 11.x volts.

oh... The top switch works both ways (insert bad joke) You can hear and see the top try to go back up it just doesn't have enough power to do so. Either the pump or the actuators possibly both are going. The car is just a toy so I haven't dug into it yet since it's not keeping me from driving it on nice days. Of course it would be nice to be able to put it up on my own lol

I was talking about the top switch since you mentioned it only works in one direction. I think the readout on the ACC might not change with the dimmer. I forget exactly now, but there are a few things the dimmer does not control on these cars. I haven't owned a CS convertible in 6 years now. It's been nearly 15+ years since I DD one.

I finally got around to replacing my dead power door lock receiver. This is a real stinker of a job, there is a myriad of parts you have to remove enroute to getting at the small black box receiver which (on the coupes) is located next to the rear passengers side speaker behind the rear seatback. And you risk breaking any of them along the way. The manual advised that either the upper passengers side or the upper drivers side plastic trim that goes along the rear windows up the C pillar needs to be removed. Well, no way was I going to do that. I managed to get the rear seat to rear window trim panel off without removing those pieces. That was a bit of good luck, I guess. IMHO this was a ridiculous place to put this receiver. I decided to relocate the box to rest on top of the inner fender well in the trunk, using some gorilla tape to hold it on. All covered up by the interior trunk carpet. There is plenty of wire to make this happen, no cutting/splicing needed. Now, if that receiver croaks, this will be a 10 minute fix instead of a 3 hour headache. The only thing I broke was one push pin clip, and I am having a heck of a time finding even that. I programmed the transmitters and all is working just fine, mission accomplished.

Are you talking about the dimmer switch? Because all of the other dash lights dim with it. Just not the digital read out on the ACC It's on always bright.

So the aftermarket radio my cutlass came with from the previous owner is awful and I hate it. Luckily they did use the wire adapter and didn't hack up the factory harness. I just purchased Joying Android 10.0 Head Unit Octa Core 4GB+64GB 7 Inch Single Din from Amazon and should be at my house on this sunday. I will post pre and post install pictures for everyone on here. I'm just going to be reusing the harness and install kit that was already there. I will give updates down the road of my likes and dislikes of the new head unit. If you have any questions please feel free to ask. (I hated my radio enough that I decided to replace it before I fixed my top lol)

1. Any fuel system with ethanol in it will be suspect after awhile of no use. In my experience(which isnt a yuge amount but still...) a fuel pump either works or it doesnt. If your getting only part of the PSI you need then I`d look at the filter or some other spot a blockage might occur first. 2. Yes, the injectors wont function right without good fuel PSI 3. If your getting 12V to the fuel pump with the key ON then the relay is working.

149,996mi I`m thinking about registering for a spot at the Good Guys show in Lebanon, TN next month. Its now open to all American cars `99 and earlier.

After 2 years of neglect, I finally had an opportunity to get the W cars out. I started with the '94 Cutlass Supreme and found a no start issue. Cranks but doesn't start. Put the fuel pressure guage on the rail and no pressure. I don't hear the pump when turning on the key. I moved onto the '95 and it cranked for a while and then finally started but ran rough with a miss. Checked all the plugs and they looked good. Verified spark from the all the coils. I hooked up the fuel pressure guage and it only pumps up to 22#. Started the car and it came up to 32#. I shut the car off and the pressure slowly bled off over the next 30 minutes to 22# and held there. I decided to walk away and start a '92 Custom Cruiser and guess what - cranks but won't fire. The fuel pump is not working there, either. Questions are these: 1) Is it typical for these pumps to not want to work after setting for a couple of years? If so, is there a way to resurrect or are they toast? 2) 22# of fuel pressure appears to be about half of what it should be. I can see that it might cause a hard to start situation. Running at 32#, is that low enough to cause a rough running situation? 3) If I bypass the pump relay, how high should I expect the pressure to go? I don't relish dropping a bunch of fuel tanks if I don't have to.

The problem could be with the switch if the contacts have gone bad. If you have a multimeter you should be able to test it for continuity.

Mine's still working, which is a good thing since I can't find one.:( Guess I'll keep my eyes open for a replacement as I'm sure I'll need one at some point. In the mean time I get to try and figure out why my top will go down but not up on it's own. lol

So this is what I found and did to get my lights off. I was already 99% sure the 3rd brake light would not cause the dash lights to be on, which was true it was not the problem. So knowing the parking brake was working correctly and not causing the red brake light to come on I then removed the ABS fuse in the glove box area. This caused the red brake light to turn off after the car was started but it still turns on as it should during the start up cycle. But the ABS light was still on. I then removed the fuse under the hood for it as well as the discovered bad relay. I then took it out to run some errands and enjoy the sunshine. After a few stops the ABS light went out and I got a much better brake pedal. I was tempted to get a new relay but why bother with it past the point that I'm at now. It stops better then it did and the lights are now off for the first time since I've owned it. I'm guessing it was prob just a bad relay to begin with. Just wanted to give everyone a update. oh my 3rd brake light took 3 891 bulbs. (i went with the leds replacements)

Now that I think about it some more I SWEAR I had this same issue many years ago. As dumb as it sounds try bleeding the brakes, start with the couple bleeders on the ABS/Master and then go to all 4 wheels.