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By the way, the paint looks really excellent.

Needed a win, its been awhile.

wow! that thing was packed full of junk no wonder.

Thanks for posting an update! Now I know why newer cars have a cabin air filter! I wonder how bad mine is.

Thanks for the options but did not need it. since I have a recovery machine with R134a it was not a big deal to open the system and refill it. Yes it was previously converted. after recovering the system I removed the one bolt under the hood holding the lines to the evaporator. Also I removed the clamps for the heater hoses at the firewall. Making sure a pan is under where you remove the heater hoses so not to spill it on the ground. under the dash at the floor I removed both left and right kick panels and gave access to where the bottom of the heater box is. I removed the silver trim around the cluster and radio, unbolted the center stack with that vent, climate control, and pocket. Behind that is another carpeted pocket unbolted that which gave me access to the heater box.. Removed the first panel that direct the floor air flow. There seems to be some pipe that goes into the floor under the carpet no idea where it goes since the back doesn’t have air vents or under the seats lol removing that panel I can see the heater core two or 7 mm. This car seems to be made with 7 mm screw screws.LOL . I was able to pull the heater core to the left and that gave me access to the evaporator. Remove the two screws on the bottom and I was able to pull the evaporator into the car and let me tell you I’ve attached a picture of what it looks like before cleaning it and after cleaning it after reinstalling everything and putting a new O-ring on the AC lines, putting a vacuum on the system and allowing my machine to refill the system with the correct amountthe airflow out of my vents was like a new car and my AC finally blows ice cold. All in all I was only left with 27 mm screws. I have no idea where they’re from but everything is nice and tight and working great. Now I know this isn’t a tutorial with instructions step-by-step but this is just what I had to go through since I couldn’t find any information and didn’t wanna wait for my service manual to come in which yes I did order on eBay. i’ve attached a few pictures before and after. I did do a little bit more cleaning after the clean picture I’ve attached. It looks like a brand new unit now. I hope in the future if somebody has to go through this and doesn’t understand what I’ve typed then can always reach out to me with questions.

Looks fantastic! You did good!

All that work and I ended up dropping and breaking that vent awhile back. Thanks to an extremely generous member here I have a replacement vent. I keep the pair inside packed in a box so I can`t break them without effort. Had an idea and went with it in securing the drip pans and screens. Using some things I had on hand I came up with some brackets that can be removed easily for cleaning or paint. I don't know if it helped or not, but I also used a small wire brush to clean out the posts and put a few drops of silicone lube in them before barely snugging up the mounting screws. Everything holds tight and secure when the hood is open and closed and looks good from the top, underneath maybe different but each side is mirrored to the other to the 1/16" with the exact same parts. It could look better with fabbed up metal stock instead, but the idea works and can be covered with some insulation in the future. It really doesnt look half bad with just the screens and pans, and Ive not even painted those yet. Seems like it could match the front grilles...

Thank you, and yea it doesn’t appear so! Was one of the biggest selling points!

Nice, thanks for that!

Oh ok I see the wheel in the channel now. That makes things a little simpler. But after looking into it a little more I’ve encountered another problem. One of the black guides for the glass is broken. Can these parts still be found or am I SOL?

18x8 +42 with 5mm spacer = +37. Needed spacers to clear the front calipers, and I didn't want the rear to look more tucked than the front, so I put spacers on the rear just to match. Your tires would stick out 7mm more than mine if you go for 245-wide.

I've done this on an '88, you don't have to remove the glass. Just put something over the window frame and tape the glass up. The lift arm has a wheel that rolls horizontally in a channel. Once you've got the regulator loose, you can move the lift arm far enough to the side that the wheel will come out of the channel and the regulator will be completely loose in the door. Monte looks a little different. https://charm.li/Chevrolet/1995/Monte Carlo V6-204 3.4L DOHC VIN X SFI/Repair and Diagnosis/Windows and Glass/Windows/Window Regulator/Service and Repair/Window Regulator/Regulator/

Discoloration never even occurred to me. I don't think it's discoloring in the Cutlass yet. Yeah, I strongly suspect heat also plays a big part. It's been garaged over 24-years, thought it did spend ~10 hours a day during the Spring/Summer/Fall out in full sun for 19 of those years. It was 100% outdoors for 8+ years before that. I don't know if that's enough cumulative UV to cause this kind of vinyl decomposition. My garage does get really hot in the summer though. About 10-degrees over ambient, 15-20 if I've driven any of the cars, as the hot engine makes the garage even hotter. I've seen rubber belts in VCRs and cassette decks literally turn to black goo when stored in a hot garage, and that kind of equipment almost never sees sunlight. Seriously thinking maybe I need to install a mini split in my garage.

That's impressive for a MI car. It must have not have been driven in the winter.

I've never seen those not on a Buick/Oldsmobile. I assume it was a way to get a softer ride for the "luxury" brand cars

Interesting. I think it's an early W body thing and dependent on whether it's a sedan, coupe, or convertible, (Cutlass line of course). I think the newer cars maybe starting in 94 on...again, depending on body style, they just got a combination of those items. 55trucker would know I bet.

Yes, those figure 8 shaped springs cushioning the lateral links. My `94 3100 CS only has these aux. springs while my `95 LQ1 Vert and TGP only have a rear sway bar. I thought it was one or the other and the two parts were not installed together. They must help "soften" the handling in the back in a way to give a smoother feel, at least thats the impression I feel when driving the `94 CS and TGP.

Well it looks like the glass is even riveted to the lift arm which is why I was considering lifting the whole thing out. They really liked their rivets back then.

Thank you!

Thank you! I am part of the 5th generation group! But will have to take a look at adding the other one. It should make for a fun project for now!

Why worry about it? the only way that one can change the controlling of the fans is to reprogram the PCM.

all wiring is connected. no one talks about free sensors and connectors. the question is in the logic of turning on the cooling fans.

As both you & Chris state the compressor has electrical switches on the back of the housing then the engine wiring harness must have a sub harness that goes to those switches. So the PCM will control both switches & will command them in the manner the PCM program was written.

Yes, there are two sensors connected to the back of the compressor, low and high pressure the question is in principle about polling the pressure sensor on the tube near the dryer, according to the diagram it is indicated as a two-stage switch, on the control unit the contacts to it are marked as Hi and Lo Coolant Fan Request but the control unit does not respond to the sensor signals in my opinion, two fans should not turn on at once On my GP 1991 LQ1 the scheme is implemented on one pressure sensor, which is located near the dryer and shows the exact pressure in the system. In this case, the fans are switched on in turn depending on the pressure. And in this version, there are no sensors on the compressor.

For me...and for a 1991 W body car, it wasn't that bad really. I was expecting a lot of work but surprisingly easy.