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Not on my W's...but I use them on my dailies. I prefer to use the rotors with the black coated hat/edge vs the silver coated ones, as I find they hold up better. They seem to hold up relatively well, even throughout the winter. In all honesty though, if your current rotors are still good you could always hit them with a bit of black spray paint. I quickly hit the rear drums of my truck over 5 years ago without any real prep work, and those have held up better than some of the coated rotors i've run.

A maroon or dark green GS, tan interior and tinted windows with "Buick" mud flaps hits a 99-04ish nostalgia spot. Would still have to have those logo puddle lights though.

Looking to replace the brake rotors on my 1994 Cutlass and I would like to have some that didnt form rust in the non-contact parts. Has anyone used some of the premium coated rotors offered with any success?

My grandparents had a 04 Regal GS with a "supercharged" emblem on the trunk lid. If I recall it was on the driver side.

Check Amazon. Just search Buick logo door light. Some are stick on with double sided tape and a magnet style sensor to activate them one the door opens.

Usually Indian for some reason. i did get on rock auto for your application, they did have one of the mounts in GM.

I guess I'll give DEA a try... from what I been reading it's all the same Subpar quality Chinese stuff.

GM if you can get them, anchor would be last resort. I just ordered a complete set of DEA mounts a couple days ago ago for my Lumina.

Greetings everyone. I tried searching but didnt find anything about what engine/trans mounts to go with. I know the options are very limited Anchor, Westar and DEA but I'm hoping yall can recommend which one you all have had the better experience. The car is a 2000 Buick regal GS thanks.

Man, surprised it was still available! /s

Shoot, those were impossible to find when I had mine. To put that into perspective, I had mine from 03-09. There were some guys that made 4th gen F body seals work, but those may or may not be available at this point as well

Hey Guys, I'm restoring my 1993 Olds Convertible. I'm having trouble sourcing new rubber for the seals on the windows, doors, and trunk. Any ideas? Thanks!

Wow, that's awesome!

Got the fuel line disconnected and fuel can ready to go but no go on the fuel pump. Do I have it wrong here? The car has been sitting for 6 weeks so the battery may be weak but radio turns on. Edit nevermind I'm an idiot i see the number on bottom of relay and i had it wrong Works like a charm thanks all

UPDATE: the car is going to the mechanic on 2/23 for this job. It will be going to a chevy dealer whose mechanic has decades of experience which is exactly what I was looking for. This mechanic is semi-retired and picks & chooses the jobs he wants to do. When he learned I'm the original and 4th owner he took the job. I was asked to supply all the parts which I think I will need. Included with these parts will be a new EGR valve and a new Low Coolant Sensor (due to the coolant being partially drained). I made a copy of Gnat's photo so thanks again for this. I will be seeing how the mechanic feels about just going the RTV route in lieu of pulling the rear head. Not only will the job be alot cheaper, I'd really prefer not opening that Pandora's box of potential additional issues if the head needs to be taken off.

Damn, that's a rare one!

Well I cant wait any longer for you guys. 23.5 years is a bit long to make a guy hang on. So I just went ahead and got it myself.

Welcome!

Not sure if you found what you’re looking for, try The Real Oldsmobile Buy-Sell-Trade group, there are a few cutlass groups, also Oldsmobile Club of America and l believe it’s called Fusick , they may have re-pops good luck

Welcome! I think black top will look great on it. Better late than never! Not as bustling as it was back in the day, but there's a few of us W-body old timers left. I wouldn't mind seeing pics of the 4.9L in a W-body.

I’ve worked on probably 2-3 dozen 60degreev6 engine headgasket or engine swap jobs, and never touched a LQ1 till I got my car. These are odd ducks. If I ever have to drop the cradle/engine, I’d for sure do engine and trans mounts. And for that matter, the cradle to body bushings as well.

I'm hoping this mechanic will have done enough of these jobs to do the same as you did. I'd really hate to have that rear head pulled if there is any way it would not need to be done. It would save some on serious labor hours as well.

I was able to replace the o-ring and add an extra gasket with the information from the old double gasket thread all without removing the rear head. I also put RTV on it and it never leaked in the 10+ years I owned the car after the repair.

UPDATE - I believe I may have found a shop with a mechanic having the experience to have worked on these motors that will do the job. My first hunch was to go to a Chevy dealership as the Lumina had these motors as well, those Z-34's you almost never see (?). As soon as they found out I was in no rush to get the car back, they were more open to the idea of working on it. I guess they thought I wanted it done yesterday. Not the case, anytime between now and July 22 will do........ Stay tuned

One should have the service manual within reach for electrical diagnosis.