All Activity

It looks like the end plug is wired the same (looks like power?) but has a different connector, and the second to last one as well and has the same connector, so the main difference is on the original the first plug (that goes to the stop switch) has three wires, but on the new it only has 2, with the third wire going to the second plug instead; both of those having different connectors as well. I’d bet this would function the same if repinned/spliced to the correct connectors. Some are different sizes so I don’t think I can just reuse the end connectors without splicing

Pics since they wouldn’t upload here https://imgur.com/a/0TaF7Mj Link from Nate for diagram https://charm.li/Pontiac/1992/Grand Prix V6-204 3.4L DOHC/Repair and Diagnosis/Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Sunroof %2F Moonroof/

So I’ve owned my GTP for 15 years and for at least 10 of those years the sunroof has always been kinda iffy, but only on one side of the button press. I confirmed years ago that it wasn’t a button issue (and have just the other day reconfirmed), so the next step was the relay. It thought I did some decent research and ordered GM part number 21038764, which was labeled for a Saturn but also came up with many other GM makes because GM. When I went to install it, I realized the body is identical, and the insides seem to be almost identical (minus a few resistors and what appears to be a voltage regulator or something, I don’t know), but the wiring is different. I’m wondering if anyone more knowledgeable than me can confirm of the electronics are in fact the same and if I can repin the plugs and slap it in, or if there’s something different and I can’t. Alternately, if anyone knows the correct part number that would also be helpful picturws attached old has the resistors. When comparing plugs, left is original, right is new one

There was a time when the rubber pads and SPECIAL glue were available in the aftermarket--Dorman 31066. Maybe it's still available--somewhere. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-31066-Leaf-Spring-Insulator/dp/B000COCRB4 The way I remember it, the glue was a real pain in the azz, couldn't get frozen, had a short shelf-life, etc. Depending on who you talk to, the rubber pads are--or are not--used with the hard, nylon blocks sold by Moog and others.

Nuts, nope. Thanks anyway rich_e777 for the input but I just checked and the Cadillac Allante convertible top motor is a totally different construction, so it won’t work. that’s too bad too because it seems to be cheaper.

I wish I had the knowledge, they really didnt intend on these Verts lasting all that long it seems. IIRC and I`m stretching hard into the memory banks, I recall something about the pump from a Cadillac Allente. Another thought, what about a local company that rebuilds tools and industrial equipment? Perhaps its entirely possible to replace internal parts the same way its done with alternators and rack and pinions.

!!! A quick update for those that may still stumble on my question above. Checked the electrical all the way to the motor/pump and it’s fine. Checked the fluid level and it’s fine. Tested both relays and they are working great. I was given a suggestion to tap on the casing of the motor/pump, and that worked. The top goes up and down again. Its lift strength seems pretty wimpy so I still need to look into a possible new motor. Here’s my updated questions… Can I replace just the motor side of the motor/pump (I saw a listing on line for about $50)? If not, the only replacements that I’m seeing will cost about $350. Are there other options for replacement motor/pumps that might be a bit cheaper? Options for specifically 91-95 Cutlass replacements seem to be very limited. About motors/pumps off of a Camaro?

Interesting idea. Might be a while before I have an opportunity to give it a try, but I'll definitely put it on the agenda.

Apparently It’s called a spring plate. If I’m seeing things correctly, it seems like it’s used to attach to lower part of a spring compressor.

I dont understand what the purpose of those wings hanging off the struts are. Curious why they are/were there.

I have a 93 Cutlass convertible and after getting it out of winter storage a couple weeks ago I finally had an opportunity to put the top down and take it for a drive. Though I hear a slight clicking sound that seems to be coming from back by the pump, the top does not go down or up, and the pump doesn’t seem to engage at all. It seems that very little information is available. I looked for a fuse that would control the power to the pump and was not able to find one that looks like it is dedicated for that use. A relay is a possible problem, but I am having troubles finding that. Reading what I could find on this website, it sounds like a relay or relays could be back by the pump. I can try testing that, but because the top doesn’t move in either direction, I’m not sure if that will be the problem. If you have any ideas, please let me know. Thanks.

X

Describe the *noise* you are hearing.......you say that this was heard when the original spring was still in place? Does the *replacement* spring still have the rubber pads glued to the ends of the leaf?

The spring is installed and functional, the car a bit higher in the rear but I expected that. What I didn't expect is for the noise to return after about a day. I am wonder if it is the point where the spring contacts the plastic isolator and or where the the isolator sit in the bracket. Any ideas are appreciated.

The bearing race doesn't have an opening one can get at to squirt in some lube.

Try this.....remove the wheel(s), disconnect the tie rod end from the knuckle, with the wheels off the ground you should be able to freely turn the knuckle by hand, the bearing at the bottom of the spring.......everything including the spring seat & above remains stationary, everything below the spring seat (including the bearing) rotates with the movement of the rack.

Additionally, I found a small hole in the bottom of the spring perch and I'm thinking a shot of white lithium up there might help.

So, I thought about the strut bearing suggestion, and should point out that it only does this at first - if you spin the wheel back and do it again, it doesn't make the sound. I'm thinking if it's worn bearings it would do it every time and only when under pressure, not when unloaded. Thoughts?

First Guess: Once you have it all apart far enough to lube them...you'll discover that the roller elements and the races are scarred from lack of lube, and they just plain need to be replaced. And that's fine...but then you figure you might as well replace the struts while you have it apart. And if you're gonna slap struts on it, you might as well upgrade the springs. And the control arm bushings, and sway-bar bushings. Which is a perfect time to check and replace the ball joints if needed. By that time, the brakes are apart, so replace the calipers, check the rotors and pads for wear, and deal with whatever you find including the brake hoses and maybe the ABS wheel-speed sensors and front hubs. Well, you have it that far apart, so a quick-ratio rack 'n' pinion with fresh tie rod ends isn't so much more work, and that means flushing the PS fluid, too. Some folks think a real PS cooler is a good idea--better than a bunch of tubing looped back-and-forth like the OEM "cooler"...

The bearings were never intended to go unattended for periods this long. they are located in the centre of the lower spring seat, in a steel encased raceway, I can't remember precisely but there is approx 60 maybe 70 small ball bearings in the race. One has to disassemble the strut off the car to get at them. I've done them twice now in the time I've owned the car. Even tho you can hear the groaning you may still be able to salvage them, one has to remove the race from the spring seat, remove the upper cap, drop them all out into a pan & clean them all, clean out the raceway, reapply a healthy amount of EP grease and set them back into the race, press the cap back down on & reinsert the race back into the spring seat. It is time consuming....and one needs a spring compressor.

It's making some weird groaning noises when turning the wheel on the ground, and that's what it does in the air. Been doing this ever since I swapped to the 96s for the upgraded brakes.

Never, I didn't know there were strut bearings, and nowhere in the FSM does it mention lubricating them as part of regular maintenance. In fact, it says there is nothing that needs lubrication in the suspension at all.

Yep, strut bearing can make that sound. Does it make that sound on the ground too? I feel like I remember them being noisier with no load.

How long has it been since the strut bearings were lubricated or replaced?

I greased the outer tie rod and ball joint, why is it still making this noise? 20250502_104001.mp4