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I'm working on my grandson's '08 GP and I need some advice. He was starting to have problems shifting out of park and was also having 'reduced power' (limp mode) until it got so bad he called me for help. From what I've learned, the possible culprits for the shifting problem are the brake pedal position sensor, the shift interlock solenoid, and that the accelerator pedal may be one reason for the limp mode. I know the throttle body might cause this too, but I replaced that about 2 years ago with a GM OEM part. I've put a new brake pedal position sensor on, and a new accelerator pedal/sensor just in case. I have a new scan tool arriving today to calibrate the brake pedal sensor. As of now, after putting those parts in, the car starts, the shifter moves (sometimes), but when I put it in any gear it revs but doesn't kick into gear. I'm hoping this will clear up after I re-set the brake sensor. My question is about the shift interlock solenoid. After not finding new ones anywhere, I ordered a used complete shifter with a solenoid on it after asking the seller if the solenoid was for sure good. He said it was, and it's on the way. But if I remove the interlock solenoid from the shifter, would everything still work as normal (aside from the fact that the shifter would no longer need to be in park to complete the start up? Is there anything in the circuit between the brake pedal sensor and the shift interlock solenoid that would keep the car from starting or running correctly? I've already pulled the solenoid but didn't try to start it and check it yet. The car is sitting in the high school parking lot where my grandkids are students. Anyway, the scanner comes in today and the "new" shifter assembly will be here in a few days. I'm wondering if I get the brake sensor calibrated and can get it running and shifting if it would be safe (me driving) to drive back to my house to finish the job. Also, if anyone has any suggestions about troubleshooting the reduced engine power/limp mode, I'd appreciate any help or comments on that. Thanks for any help on this. Lee

I can probably make a chip for the OBD1 computer. swapping to obd2 isn't the best way to go about it but its the only way those derby companies know how to do it. Microsquirt or similar would be ideal.

Whatcha looking for? I think I got rid of the few things I had left when we moved, but I know a few guys here still have some stuff. Nate will probably chime in haha

Looking for info for parts..... anyone here available with info?

I think I used a 2x4 between the studs to twist it.

That’s how it came. Painted grey

Fuel filter was changed 2,000 miles ago. No fuel coming out of FPR port. I'm imagining the whine of the fuel pump and the reduction in pressure is likely indicating a fuel pump replacement. There is a chance the fuel filter is the issue, but it is a WIX filter and the old filter wasn't dumping filthy fuel out when I removed it.

That does seem a little low according to this chart: https://charm.li/Buick/1996/Regal V6-3.8L VIN K/Repair and Diagnosis/Maintenance/Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks/Fuel Pressure/Testing and Inspection/ Looks like minimum key on engine off should be 48 and running no less than 38. Has fuel filter been changed recently? I never thought a filter could make that much difference, but on my Grand Prix it made a huge difference. Also check to make sure no fuel leaking out of the vacuum port of the FPR. If you have a small handheld vacuum pump, check to make sure it holds vacuum and no fuel comes out. Leaky FPR can reduce fuel pressure too. I've had to replace those on 3 W-bodies. If all that checks out, you might have a fuel pump job in your future.

Fuel pressure is at 45 PSI with key on and engine off. When the engine is running, it is at 32 PSI. I think that is likely meaning the fuel pump is bad, right?

Did you paint it or something? All of the ones I am seeing look like bare metal

I've done it at least 4 times, maybe more. I'd recommend just dropping the tank. If the fuel pump still runs, I'd just use that to pump out the fuel to reduce the weight. Although if it were me, I'd invest in a fuel pressure gauge to make sure the pump needs replacing. Mine used to make loud howling sounds at half a tank and below, but it did that for over 12-years before I replaced it. No problem to do with just jack stands.

Rock auto. Somewhere around 140ish including the shipping.

Thanks for the info. That is a nice looking tank. Where did you order that from?

It depends on the day, but it is pretty noticeable. It doesn't get louder if I am driving or if I am sitting still. It is however loud it is until I turn the car off and then the next time I start it, it might be loud or it might quiet down some. I don't have my rear seats installed which contributes to some additional noise, but pretty sure it has gotten louder in the past couple months.

How loud is this whine, one is supposed to hear the pump running........when one turns the ign key to *run* you will hear the pump spin up for a moment then it stops. When the engine is running if you get under the rear of the car you will hear the pump running.

I just dropped the tank on my Lumina a few days ago. Don’t cut a hole in the floor, it’s really not that hard, just kind of sucks to reattach the vapor lines. In a nutshell… -there’s an exhaust heat shield that had to come off. -unplug 2 fuel lines, 3 vapor lines, the electrical connection, and two fuel fill pipes at the tank. -15mm bolts on the straps, and it comes down. It took me all of 10 mins to drop the tank. I’ve replaced the tank and fuel sending unit twice (from rust damage from sitting) and a third to reseal the sending/pump unit. Delphi pumps are good, but buy a GM fuel sending unit gasket. Don’t use aftermarket.

I have a 1996 Buick Regal Gran Sport. There is no access hatch for the fuel pump. I have noticed an electrical whine coming from the pump and want to plan on a replacement at some point. I think that dropping the fuel tank seems like a major pain especially while only using jack stands. Has anyone else found a good solution to replacing the fuel pump? I'm okay with cutting out a portion of the trunk and patching it when I am done. Is there a good way to do this without sparks so I don't have sparks near gasoline? Are Delphi fuel pumps a decent replacement?

3100s were tougher. 94-95 3.4 DOHC still had socketed MEMCAL/PROM. 3100s on the other hand, I believe they were flash PCMs like the 96 OBD II PCMs. I don't know that anyone ever got into the flash PCMs.

Probably need to reseal your back window (windshield urethane is what I used). Mine had no drain and used to collect water, but I resealed my back window and it never collected water ever again.

I know this is an old thread but having the same problem. Can anyone help?

Got ahead of the curve on this one. Last year I had my tired A/C Compressor swapped out for a new one. Bought an A/C Delco compressor new. Flipped the switch the first hot day around here a few weeks ago. Nothing. It was the "every year's plague" of re-filling the system with fresh R-134. Only this year this trick did not work. Nothing. Fortunately I have found a place that is willing to work on these 3.4 motors, a local Chevy Dealership with a mechanic that's got a 53 years experience track record who knows these motors. As usual I buck-shotted this repair, I sent the car in with a trunkload of NOS parts, even including another new Delco Compressor. Turned out the low pressure line and the valve was toast, major leaks. All is well (and cold) now, just in time for a long South Carolina summer. Which starts this week, going by the predicted temps. Looks like I get to put that New Compressor on the shelf for next time. And we all know that will be a next time down the road........

I agree. I think trying to convert a 3.1 to run on a 3100 PCM solely for derby use is taking things a little too far. Sure, you could probably get it to work somewhat without all of the necessary sensor inputs....but would it really be worthwhile? If it were me....i'd either run the thing stock or carb swap it. Trying to get it to run properly on an OBD2 PCM wouldn't even cross my mind.

32 Clicks of Rebound Force Adjustment (I'm assuming single)

The softer the spring one uses the stiffer the dampening that's needed to keep ones ride from *floating*. Are these Rev9 shocks single or double acting?

Well, crap, I'm an idiot Spring Rate(FRONT): 8 kg/mm (448 lbs/inch) (8k) (Spring Rate(REAR): 5 kg/mm (280 lbs/inch) (5k) https://www.ebay.com/itm/363295804829 BC (from ZZP): 5k Front, 6k Rear ZZP: 6.6kg front spring rate, 6.6kg rear spring rate Looks like I'm going to switch the fronts out for probably 6k if I can find them in 200mmx62mm (7.87" x 2.44") and try that. I believe the other ones use 10" springs, but I'll have to measure the other car this weekend.