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I am trying to replace the solenoid in my car with the radio on for a good 30mins, confused about how the solenoid replacements works (see this post). Without getting the solenoid replaced, but finally being able to get the car out of park, I decided to start the car but it won't go. The dash started to flicker and can hear the relay ticking. Weird electronic glitches started to happen, like turning the signal would flicker the radio button lights. Feels like something is shorting out but can't tell and not electronically inclined. After trying to start the car a few more times, the radio wouldn't even come on anymore and I'm left with just relay ticking. I am assuming the battery is dead. Before charging the battery back up and trying again, I am looking for help to understand where the short might come from during my disassembly: - I took off the front console panel with the cigarette cable disconnected - I had to adjust the steering wheel tilt to take out the front console panel out. I know the multi-function switch is already wonky because I am not getting brake lights unless I pull the switch slightly back. Could adjust the wheel tilt cause the multi-function switch to become worst? - I took off the center console, with the two small light bulbs unclipped and shift solenoid switch disconnected - I took out the radio (and maybe because I pulled too hard) found the power copper wiring fraying out. I pushed the radio back in with the wires exposed and maybe it touched some back metal plate and shorted? Beyond that, I don't understand how this process has caused these electronic issues.

I sourced a Dorman 924-980 and according to all the sites is a direct replacement for the 1995 Buick Regal. However, upon closer inspection it doesn't look right at all: Instead, Dorman 924-748 looks more like a direct replacement: Can anyone confirm the right after market part here? Again, Dorman's own site is suggestion the first as the direct fit. And finally, can the solenoid be replaced withing removing the plastic side and overhand covering it?

I honestly don't know if they're low drag or not. I've never seen anything referencing that in SI or anywhere. I did find in the meantime, a thread by Miko K where he uses a 2nd/ 3rd gen MC with a 1" bore and installed it in his Cutlass. The biggest difference being two line outputs instead of 4, but he T'd them on the car to split the 2 channels to feed the 4 corners.

"Bigger" master cylinder bore = less hydraulic advantage. If you have low-drag front calipers, you NEED the OEM three-chamber, step-bore, Quick Take-Up master cylinder. But I don't know if you have low-drag calipers.

The Monte is pretty simple and old school. All the warning lights are just regular 194 light bulbs. So I was just planning on removing the ABS light bulb and the EBCM. I was curious about the MC bore sizes, since bigger would typically be better unless I'm overlooking something.

Since you're already disks, and using the 1st gen booster, I'd grab a 1st gen master cylinder and re-do the lines as needed. Only thing I'm not entirely sure has been ever discussed has been the bore size of the master. I see there is 7/8 and a 15/16 size bore. I'd ensure you're getting the biggest bore for the disks. Otherwise - not sure on tuning or flashing the BCM to de-activate the ABS so you don't have a light on at all times.

What I used for bushings is simple rubber vibration isolator pad material (the pad was approx 12" square), up here we have a *Princess Auto* hardware/automotive supply store, Harbor Freight *might* have something similar, using my table saw I cut the bushings to the same basic shape as the original molded bushing glued to the leaf & removed the material in the inner section to make the *pocket*. One has to do them in two pieces (upper & lower). One can *fine tune* the installed height of the new spring by adjusting the upper bushings thickness, but both bushings have to be no thicker than necessary to allow the spring to go into place & tighten up the lower mounting retainer to let it bottom against the stop. Seeing as the blank leaves are 3" wide (that's wider than the glas leaf in the centre section at the mounting points) I used my 5" angle grinder with a flap wheel to notch small recesses into the edges of the steel where the pads will go to allow the mounting bolts to slide up either side of the leaves up into the subframe member. All of this wasn't difficult, it just took time & patience. If you've never removed the rear leaf without the special spring compressor there is a way to get it out without to much fuss.

VERY much appreciated - and thank you. Do you have any pics from install or how you made the rubber bits (Im guessing both center rubber and end rubber had to be made/cut) Agian, thank you!

Flaring and making lines in no issue. I have benders and a hydraulic flaring tool which makes making lines a breeze. If I have enough line, I'd just bend and reattach, but I may make some unions otherwise. I know GM likes to make oddball thread and line sizes at the MC, so no surprise there.

Being an ABS VI you will have to either re-bend the existing lines at the current ABS module to fit into the 4 ports of the non ABS master or add extensions onto what's there. What's not known is if what is there right now will have the same 4 different line nut fittings that the non ABS master makes use of. Each line nut that goes into the appropriate master port has a different thread pitch & diameter so they could not be mixed up.

Disc all around.

Do you have drums still in the back?

As the title states, I'm looking for any/ all info in regards to the proper master cylinder needed for ABS deletion. I'm only wanting/ needing to do it in order to fit turbocharger piping in the engine bay, and not because of some naive safety circumvention. I am already running a smaller first gen brake booster found on the manual transmission cars if this matters. While searching RockAuto, there seems to be a lot of overlap between the 1st gen W-bodies through 1.5, with and without disc brakes, etc. So, I figured I'd ask the experts since I've seen brake systems discussed here in the past. Thanks!

What they liked the best: The brakes. What folks complain about the most on this site: The brakes. I've said it before, I'll say it again: The biggest problem with Gen 1 brakes is not the brakes per se, it's the brake booster.

This may not be helpful but check your grounds

This is the formula I used to get the basics for for I wanted....in hindsight it is a bit too stiff, on the highway the springrate is great, car does NOT float, corners reallly well, but where potholes are concerned its a bit harsh. My thinking now that it's been 2 years since I installed it the springrate could be dropped to perhaps 280lbs per inch. The shop owner who fabbed this up did it from the original *high arc* leaf. He used regular *shallow* arc leaves (blank leaves are all arced to a basic curve) to start with, cut them to the length as per the formula, then put each one thru the *hammer* to together match what the ride height the car is at when the glas leaf was in place with the cars weight on it. Of course I had him reduce the arc as the car sits approx 1.7" lower. That means you have to get under the car to measure the curve of the glas leaf when it is under the vehicle weight. Do so from the ends of the leaf to the centre section. I just used a long straight edge, laid it up under the spring ends & took a measurement in the centre. Since I was doing all the *bull work* I had to install, test the ride height, uninstall, go back a couple of times to have him *fine tune* the arc to get all where I wanted it. One has to fab up their own rubber bushings for this.......not hard to do, just takes time cutting them to fit. *Note* to do this the exhaust has to be out of the way.

I never used that feature in either of my first gens.

"Automatic shoulder belts"

Would you happen to have the "Specs" the shop used, that could be taken to another shop (local to me in this case)? Thank you!

When I first saw this I was wondering why this logo was placed on the door handle.

I saw that as well. From what I have found, the original air date of that episode was the week of October 7th, 1987. Highly likely that those are pre-production Cutlasses that were filmed. The Regal footage is likely a production model since they were the first to go on sale in October. That Regal digital dash footage has to be from a pre-production car though. Either that, or GM made a production change extremely early in the product run to change the tach from red/orange to green.

Never seen that olds logo on the b pillar like that, and on the SL too

Gotta love that quality 80s GM fit and finish! And that Regal is very oddly equipped. Bench seat, manual locks and windows, no rear reading lights.....but it has alloy wheels. Then there is this: That cluster must be from a pre-production vehicle, as the tach was never red like that on any of the production ones. My old 88 Regal was a November 87 build, and the tach was green like the rest of the cluster.

I had a similar problem on a 2010 GMC sierra. The drivers side door window would only operate when the door was open. I dug into the wiring and found a wire that was nearly broken. I would check wiring and grounds.