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I have zero issues doing this physically, I just have no idea if the internals of this newer one are the same, and I’m not sure I want to bastardize both and end up with nothing haha I was gonna plug the old one in and close it so I could at least drive it but it makes getting to this piece 1000x more difficult lol

I need several electrical connectors replaced on my 2.8. Can anyone tell me if they can help me out? I don’t think any of the connectors are going to work with my harness from a 3.1 because I have a vacuum egr valve. The 3.1 mostly has the electronic egr valve and I seen the connectors are completely the opposite. What about the other sensors? Can I crimp these connectors from the harness that has the electronic egr valve and crimp them onto my harness that has the vacuum egr? list of connectors that need to be replaced due to a critter chewing them. The bastard even chewed all of my weather packs smh. MAP SENSOR- GREEN WEATHERPACK - VAPOR CANISTER PURGE VALVE SOLENOID- TAN WEATHERPACK - EGR VALVE- GREY WEATHERPACK 2.8 only vacuum - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR- BLUE WEATHERPACK - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR- BLUE WEATHERPACK - COOLANT ENGINE TEMP SENSOR- BLUE WEATHERPACK - IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE- BLUE WEATHERPACK - OIL PRESSURE SENDER SWITCH- NEAR THE OIL FILTER- GREEN WEATHERPACK - AC COMPRESSOR CLUTCH COIL CONNECTOR- CONNECTOR IS ON THE SIDE OF THE CLUTCH PULLEY- BLUE WEATHERPACK - AIR INTAKE TEMP SENSOR- on the air filter box- BLUE WEATHERPACK

I've been hitting my head against the wall trying to figure this out. After several failed attempts to locate anything for the 1992 GTP, other than what you've already sourced. I had an idea. Don't know if it's possible but it might me. Would it be possible to replace the relays in the original connector? Either using the ones in the new unit or ordering AROMAT relays. I'm sure that might be the only issue. I would assume you've already inspected the solder joints for any cracking. Now think I'm thinking about it, the resistors in the old unit could be the issue. Rewiring and using the old connectors on the new unit might be the way to go.

The sunroof switch is a rocker switch, depending on which side of the switch one presses (front side or rear side) the switch closes the circuit to either the forward relay or the back relay. The direction of sunroof movement remains in play until the end of stroke as long as one has the switch pressed. If the sunroof glass has been opened & one presses the front side of the rocker switch the glass moves forward to the closed position, one releases the switch at the point the glass is closed to keep the glass closed, if one continues to hold down the front side of the switch the glass will open up to the vent position. The same control function takes place when retracting the glass to full open, when the glass goes to full open the glass stops moving, the load comes up on the motor circuit, no voltage is flowing, so both relays go open, this same action applies when the vent goes to fully open.

HOW does the relay know which side of the button you're using?

Here’s the diagram for the Saturn part number I ordered. Posting here so I can compare it later (currently at work in the John haha) https://charm.li/Saturn/1995/Sedan L4-1.9L SOHC VIN 8/Repair and Diagnosis/Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Sunroof %2F Moonroof/

It looks like the end plug is wired the same (looks like power?) but has a different connector, and the second to last one as well and has the same connector, so the main difference is on the original the first plug (that goes to the stop switch) has three wires, but on the new it only has 2, with the third wire going to the second plug instead; both of those having different connectors as well. I’d bet this would function the same if repinned/spliced to the correct connectors. Some are different sizes so I don’t think I can just reuse the end connectors without splicing

Pics since they wouldn’t upload here https://imgur.com/a/0TaF7Mj Link from Nate for diagram https://charm.li/Pontiac/1992/Grand Prix V6-204 3.4L DOHC/Repair and Diagnosis/Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Sunroof %2F Moonroof/

So I’ve owned my GTP for 15 years and for at least 10 of those years the sunroof has always been kinda iffy, but only on one side of the button press. I confirmed years ago that it wasn’t a button issue (and have just the other day reconfirmed), so the next step was the relay. It thought I did some decent research and ordered GM part number 21038764, which was labeled for a Saturn but also came up with many other GM makes because GM. When I went to install it, I realized the body is identical, and the insides seem to be almost identical (minus a few resistors and what appears to be a voltage regulator or something, I don’t know), but the wiring is different. I’m wondering if anyone more knowledgeable than me can confirm of the electronics are in fact the same and if I can repin the plugs and slap it in, or if there’s something different and I can’t. Alternately, if anyone knows the correct part number that would also be helpful picturws attached old has the resistors. When comparing plugs, left is original, right is new one

There was a time when the rubber pads and SPECIAL glue were available in the aftermarket--Dorman 31066. Maybe it's still available--somewhere. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-31066-Leaf-Spring-Insulator/dp/B000COCRB4 The way I remember it, the glue was a real pain in the azz, couldn't get frozen, had a short shelf-life, etc. Depending on who you talk to, the rubber pads are--or are not--used with the hard, nylon blocks sold by Moog and others.

Nuts, nope. Thanks anyway rich_e777 for the input but I just checked and the Cadillac Allante convertible top motor is a totally different construction, so it won’t work. that’s too bad too because it seems to be cheaper.

I wish I had the knowledge, they really didnt intend on these Verts lasting all that long it seems. IIRC and I`m stretching hard into the memory banks, I recall something about the pump from a Cadillac Allente. Another thought, what about a local company that rebuilds tools and industrial equipment? Perhaps its entirely possible to replace internal parts the same way its done with alternators and rack and pinions.

!!! A quick update for those that may still stumble on my question above. Checked the electrical all the way to the motor/pump and it’s fine. Checked the fluid level and it’s fine. Tested both relays and they are working great. I was given a suggestion to tap on the casing of the motor/pump, and that worked. The top goes up and down again. Its lift strength seems pretty wimpy so I still need to look into a possible new motor. Here’s my updated questions… Can I replace just the motor side of the motor/pump (I saw a listing on line for about $50)? If not, the only replacements that I’m seeing will cost about $350. Are there other options for replacement motor/pumps that might be a bit cheaper? Options for specifically 91-95 Cutlass replacements seem to be very limited. About motors/pumps off of a Camaro?

Interesting idea. Might be a while before I have an opportunity to give it a try, but I'll definitely put it on the agenda.

Apparently It’s called a spring plate. If I’m seeing things correctly, it seems like it’s used to attach to lower part of a spring compressor.

I dont understand what the purpose of those wings hanging off the struts are. Curious why they are/were there.

I have a 93 Cutlass convertible and after getting it out of winter storage a couple weeks ago I finally had an opportunity to put the top down and take it for a drive. Though I hear a slight clicking sound that seems to be coming from back by the pump, the top does not go down or up, and the pump doesn’t seem to engage at all. It seems that very little information is available. I looked for a fuse that would control the power to the pump and was not able to find one that looks like it is dedicated for that use. A relay is a possible problem, but I am having troubles finding that. Reading what I could find on this website, it sounds like a relay or relays could be back by the pump. I can try testing that, but because the top doesn’t move in either direction, I’m not sure if that will be the problem. If you have any ideas, please let me know. Thanks.

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Describe the *noise* you are hearing.......you say that this was heard when the original spring was still in place? Does the *replacement* spring still have the rubber pads glued to the ends of the leaf?

The spring is installed and functional, the car a bit higher in the rear but I expected that. What I didn't expect is for the noise to return after about a day. I am wonder if it is the point where the spring contacts the plastic isolator and or where the the isolator sit in the bracket. Any ideas are appreciated.

The bearing race doesn't have an opening one can get at to squirt in some lube.

Try this.....remove the wheel(s), disconnect the tie rod end from the knuckle, with the wheels off the ground you should be able to freely turn the knuckle by hand, the bearing at the bottom of the spring.......everything including the spring seat & above remains stationary, everything below the spring seat (including the bearing) rotates with the movement of the rack.

Additionally, I found a small hole in the bottom of the spring perch and I'm thinking a shot of white lithium up there might help.

So, I thought about the strut bearing suggestion, and should point out that it only does this at first - if you spin the wheel back and do it again, it doesn't make the sound. I'm thinking if it's worn bearings it would do it every time and only when under pressure, not when unloaded. Thoughts?

First Guess: Once you have it all apart far enough to lube them...you'll discover that the roller elements and the races are scarred from lack of lube, and they just plain need to be replaced. And that's fine...but then you figure you might as well replace the struts while you have it apart. And if you're gonna slap struts on it, you might as well upgrade the springs. And the control arm bushings, and sway-bar bushings. Which is a perfect time to check and replace the ball joints if needed. By that time, the brakes are apart, so replace the calipers, check the rotors and pads for wear, and deal with whatever you find including the brake hoses and maybe the ABS wheel-speed sensors and front hubs. Well, you have it that far apart, so a quick-ratio rack 'n' pinion with fresh tie rod ends isn't so much more work, and that means flushing the PS fluid, too. Some folks think a real PS cooler is a good idea--better than a bunch of tubing looped back-and-forth like the OEM "cooler"...