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Thanks for the info. That is a nice looking tank. Where did you order that from?

It depends on the day, but it is pretty noticeable. It doesn't get louder if I am driving or if I am sitting still. It is however loud it is until I turn the car off and then the next time I start it, it might be loud or it might quiet down some. I don't have my rear seats installed which contributes to some additional noise, but pretty sure it has gotten louder in the past couple months.

How loud is this whine, one is supposed to hear the pump running........when one turns the ign key to *run* you will hear the pump spin up for a moment then it stops. When the engine is running if you get under the rear of the car you will hear the pump running.

I just dropped the tank on my Lumina a few days ago. Don’t cut a hole in the floor, it’s really not that hard, just kind of sucks to reattach the vapor lines. In a nutshell… -there’s an exhaust heat shield that had to come off. -unplug 2 fuel lines, 3 vapor lines, the electrical connection, and two fuel fill pipes at the tank. -15mm bolts on the straps, and it comes down. It took me all of 10 mins to drop the tank. I’ve replaced the tank and fuel sending unit twice (from rust damage from sitting) and a third to reseal the sending/pump unit. Delphi pumps are good, but buy a GM fuel sending unit gasket. Don’t use aftermarket.

I have a 1996 Buick Regal Gran Sport. There is no access hatch for the fuel pump. I have noticed an electrical whine coming from the pump and want to plan on a replacement at some point. I think that dropping the fuel tank seems like a major pain especially while only using jack stands. Has anyone else found a good solution to replacing the fuel pump? I'm okay with cutting out a portion of the trunk and patching it when I am done. Is there a good way to do this without sparks so I don't have sparks near gasoline? Are Delphi fuel pumps a decent replacement?

3100s were tougher. 94-95 3.4 DOHC still had socketed MEMCAL/PROM. 3100s on the other hand, I believe they were flash PCMs like the 96 OBD II PCMs. I don't know that anyone ever got into the flash PCMs.

Probably need to reseal your back window (windshield urethane is what I used). Mine had no drain and used to collect water, but I resealed my back window and it never collected water ever again.

I know this is an old thread but having the same problem. Can anyone help?

Got ahead of the curve on this one. Last year I had my tired A/C Compressor swapped out for a new one. Bought an A/C Delco compressor new. Flipped the switch the first hot day around here a few weeks ago. Nothing. It was the "every year's plague" of re-filling the system with fresh R-134. Only this year this trick did not work. Nothing. Fortunately I have found a place that is willing to work on these 3.4 motors, a local Chevy Dealership with a mechanic that's got a 53 years experience track record who knows these motors. As usual I buck-shotted this repair, I sent the car in with a trunkload of NOS parts, even including another new Delco Compressor. Turned out the low pressure line and the valve was toast, major leaks. All is well (and cold) now, just in time for a long South Carolina summer. Which starts this week, going by the predicted temps. Looks like I get to put that New Compressor on the shelf for next time. And we all know that will be a next time down the road........

I agree. I think trying to convert a 3.1 to run on a 3100 PCM solely for derby use is taking things a little too far. Sure, you could probably get it to work somewhat without all of the necessary sensor inputs....but would it really be worthwhile? If it were me....i'd either run the thing stock or carb swap it. Trying to get it to run properly on an OBD2 PCM wouldn't even cross my mind.

32 Clicks of Rebound Force Adjustment (I'm assuming single)

The softer the spring one uses the stiffer the dampening that's needed to keep ones ride from *floating*. Are these Rev9 shocks single or double acting?

Well, crap, I'm an idiot Spring Rate(FRONT): 8 kg/mm (448 lbs/inch) (8k) (Spring Rate(REAR): 5 kg/mm (280 lbs/inch) (5k) https://www.ebay.com/itm/363295804829 BC (from ZZP): 5k Front, 6k Rear ZZP: 6.6kg front spring rate, 6.6kg rear spring rate Looks like I'm going to switch the fronts out for probably 6k if I can find them in 200mmx62mm (7.87" x 2.44") and try that. I believe the other ones use 10" springs, but I'll have to measure the other car this weekend.

Hmmmmmm.......... the Rev9 supplier doesn't disclose the coil spring rates to the customer? is it safe to assume you're using the 97-04 Buick Regal coils? https://coiloverkits.com/collections/rev9-coilovers/products/buick-regal-coilovers-1997-2004-rev9-hyper-street-ii-32-way-adjustable

I have Rev9 coilovers on my 2001 GT. I have 0 pre-load, which helps, but they're still a little bouncy and harsh no matter what I set the damper setting to. I have ZZP coilovers on the red car and, while not perfect, they are much better. I'm trying to figure out what spring rate they are or if anyone knows what I should swap them out for? I'm also going to grab more collars so I can lock them together. They keep coming loose. They have a thin lock washer, but one of them broke.

your biggest issue, I think will be the lack of a cam position sensor on a 3.1 and potentially lack of secondary crank sensor (if the 3100 has that, I'm not sure). I'm sure you don't care about things like o2 sensors and the like so I'm trying to think of things that would prevent it from just working. is a 3100 a MAF car? if it is are you even running a maf? not that I think it would matter as you could just slap that in line on a 3.1. Transmission control might be a problem, but again not sure how much you care about that since you'd probably just be using first and reverse Not sure how a 3100 PCM would cope with the lack of cam sensor signal, its possible that it would work. Truth be told the stock engine harness in that car is pretty darn close to a stand alone system. I've also seen derby guys use modified 3.1 intake manifolds with a carb base welded on and a distributor out of a 3.1 U van if you really wanted to keep it simple

So I have a simplified harness and tuned computer for a 3100 what does it take to make it work on the 3.1 motor? I derby the cars so not really concerned about how it looks or if I have to cut things up, trying to build a 93 lumina with the 3.1 my harness and computer is off of a 98. 3100 Monte Carlo. It’s the lmmf harness and computer I was told all I had to do was swap injector harness over for it to work.. anyone that could help would be greatly appreciated

I think I watched a guy on YouTube do one, and he used a claw hammer.

Getting a pry bar on the studs is next to impossible, given the space you're working with. The service manual for the car calls for a specialty tool literally no one sells. You have to make it yourself. Hope you know how to weld. And grooves to lock it in place? Bolts not work for the engineer? Did narrow wrenches and short sockets not exist in the 90's? The idiocracy of the design choices in the W-Body is astounding! Honda out there making cheap, easy to work on commuters in the 90's while GM was living in their own little city of dreams. Hollow, dim-headed loonies, the lot of them were.

RobertIsaar was the guy for this. He did all kinds of non-sense to my CSC.

I had the GTP programmed to ignore it, but then I didn't delete it, so I had it added back in as stock

I would like to know as well. I pulled it off the Monte, but it ran like crap, so I plugged it back in. It's just sitting there plugged in as it's been blocked off.

Short answer, not really. Long answer, yes but I'm not nearly smart enough for that and I think the number of people that mess with the 94/95 ECMs is in the single digits.

The threads on the fitting for my EGR tube at the exhaust manifold no longer exist. The tube isn't available anywhere. Figured at this point I'd just delete the EGR. Are there any ways to trick the car into thinking there's still an EGR so I don't have annoying check engine light? 1994 Pontiac Grand Prix 3100

Now that you mention that....the steel wheels I had might have been from an A body instead. I seem to recall my father having originally bought wheels from 1 platform, but then exchanged them as they didn't fit. I thought the originals were from an A body, and then they were swapped for ones from an H body, but looking at the offset that each platform uses, it must have been the other way around.