All Activity

And a few years later and I'm finally building a proper exhaust for it. I bought a universal kit off Amazon and put this together this weekend, along with a couple used Borla mufflers that were given to me. It's louder than I was expecting, but is mostly just too much bass and rumble for my liking. I attribute it to the 3 inch pipe and straight through design of the mufflers. I have since ordered a smaller inline chambered muffler that I'm going to install where the factory cat/ resonator were installed to see if it tones down the deep rumble a bit. Aside from that, does anyone know where I can get new or like new OEM looking exhaust tips for this car or have recommendations for a lookalike? I'd certainly appreciate any suggestions but ideally would like to copy the original style.

I'm sure everyone will have their own opinion here, but if you want to keep a stock sound I would highly suggest a Walker Muffler. I had them on my 3.1l Grand prix and I think they sounded better than the rusted out stock muffler, and restored the original sound. https://www.walkerexhaust.com/ And here is a Youtube video with a Walker Muffler on a Pontiac 6000. To each their own, if you don't like this, there are plenty of other options. I really like Magnaflow mufflers as well and have those on my GTP, and my old 3.4l Cutlass.

Hi everyone. I’m restoring my 90 olds cutlass , the car is all original. Still has stock muffler. But I’m pretty sure it’s on it way out. My question is if there are any mufflers that won’t take away from that 3.1 raspy sound. That exhaust tone is nostalgic.

Thanks for this.

1.5gens are significantly lower offset than 2nd, though.

I knew the make/model, not specific years. the bell housing is different. Google's gay robot doesn't know about the TC. It also thinks it was in a 94 Lumina. Like hell it was.

What I do not like about spacers is that more often than not a simple spacer will not be either hub centric or wheel centric. Ideally one wants both inner & outer to be centric to what the spacer is being used on. The hubs design is to take the vertical shock of bumps in the road, the wheel lugs are there to hold the wheel to the hub.

I'm glad that joke is still funny

I never thought of that, but I do like that 1/4" spacing on the front after parking next to the TGP. It gives the impression those 2G GTP rims are wider like the TGPs and I have to make that match on the rear to make it all look "right".

I thought the same thing, but then I saw the valance is intact so you know it's fine.

Nice car...1st thing you might consider is removing that led light bar right in the centre of the path for the air intake for the a/c condenser & the rad.

Welcome to the site! There is plenty of information to find around here about these cars.

Hi, I have a 92 Chevy Lumina Z34 automatic with the V6 DOHC. It's all stock. I am new to fixing cars and got it a year ago. Any tips or suggestions is appreciated. The current thing I'm working on it wiring and brakes.

This, kids, is why this website is the fucking best when it comes to W-Bodies.

There's a guy in Denver that we used to use a lot that checked mine out that might be worth talking to: Steve's Transmissions and Gears 303-744-7904

Bumping for any more adventures that anyone may have had with the 284. I have about 1000 miles on my LS4/ 284 combo and all seems well. I have two additional 284s in need of different repairs that I could/ would like to combine to make one like-new unit.

Psssst....hint *move the calipers inboard*

I have `99 GTP rims on my `94 Cutlass Supreme, you`ll need at least 1/4 clearance on the front to clear the calipers. I bought a pair off the shelf at Autozone that work great and I didnt need to get longer studs or replace the lugnuts at all. Even transferred the Oldsmobile center cap over to the Pontiac wheels.

I've been running the plate style spacers for years, but I think they're 5/8, so really not enough to make much of a difference in this case. Mine were mostly to make up for the hub bore difference, bonus of the fitment being better

It shouldn't be much lower than it was, but I definitely should get it aligned again. It's hard to tell since I had them all the way apart. I should have measured the wheel gap and/or fender height from the ground before and after, but I didn't for some reason.

Except you can't get any under 1"

I'm seeing -.65 on both front wheels as the finished setting by the shop, that's a little more than negative half a degree. You're at just under 1 degree negative on the rears. I personally wouldn't adjust those at all, but those settings were done 2 years ago, you've had the front end apart & the car now sits lower, that will alter those earlier settings to some degree. Lowering the car will induce more negative camber.

I'm at just under - 1. I raised it a little more.

I would think bolt-on spacer adaptors would be simpler than replacing 20 studs.

Unsubscribe