Need to know some info about replacing the strut cartridge?

[89-W-Body-Regal]

I have a 1989 Buick Regal Custom 2.8L V-6. This is my first time replacing the front strut cartridge myself. I just bought the tools on eBay. I need to know, when you remove the strut cartridge, the dealer shop manual says, oil from strut tube using suction device.

If the oil has to be removed how much oil has to be removed? Do you ever need to drain the oil with fresh oil? What type of oil do you use? Not motor oil? Sorry for the stupid questions, that’s my only issue I have replacing these. I want to know how much to keep in there and how much to remove. Here is the factory info from my Buick shop manual.

Edited June 30, 2024 by 89-W-Body-Regal

[Schurkey]

The OEM strut has loose oil inside.  You'd remove ALL of it to the best of your ability.

The replacement cartridge is a different design, that doesn't need oil inside the housing.

Remove the oil, drop the new cartridge into the housing, put it together just like the manual says.

[89-W-Body-Regal]

What do you think of this? I don’t know why the shop manual doesn’t say this. I’ve watched a video on YouTube where a guy doing one of these said to keep some oil in there because you have to coat the new cartridge 1/2. So he removed some and said if he had to put some back in you would do it with the suction.  The guy mentioned the oil cools down the heat of the strut cartridge so it don’t overheat.

Was he right ? I don’t know why the manual didn’t mention this. Don’t want it to overheat the cartridge. But that’s what I hear people done before over the years.

Watch 5:40 to 7:35

Edited June 30, 2024 by 89-W-Body-Regal

[ron350]

Procedure #8 says - oil from strut tube using suction device.

 The service manual just forgot to put REMOVE OR DISCONECT at the top of that list.

 

[89-W-Body-Regal]

19 minutes ago, ron350 said:

Procedure #8 says - oil from strut tube using suction device.

 The service manual just forgot to put REMOVE OR DISCONECT at the top of that list.

 

Yeah I see that, none of that service info makes sense really with wording. The video was really helpful. But the guy was right about the oil?

Edited June 30, 2024 by 89-W-Body-Regal

[ron350]

Step #8 says remove the oil so i removed the oil when I replaced my cartridges.

 Do whatever you want I don't think it really matters.

 

[Schurkey]

There ARE strut cartridges that when replaced, need some oil-bath.

Apparently, the W-body ones don't.  OR the service manual is wrong.  Can you get access to a later-model-year manual?

[89-W-Body-Regal]

On 6/30/2024 at 7:58 PM, Schurkey said:

There ARE strut cartridges that when replaced, need some oil-bath.

Apparently, the W-body ones don't.  OR the service manual is wrong.  Can you get access to a later-model-year manual?

Ok well I found out from another post from 2019 this is what strut I have. The seat is fastened to the top of the knuckle assembly. That is why I can’t install the tool inside down into the strut tower to remove the strut closure nut that is supposed to remove the cartridge because the seat is covering any access to fit the cartridge tool down into the strut tower. Do I need to remove the whole strut assembly?
 

*The manual says do not service the strut unless the weight of the vehicle is on the suspension. But some shops have the wall mount spring compressors for that*

 

Seat on top of the knuckle.

actual knuckle that the cartridge fits into.

 

Edited yesterday at 03:03 AM by 89-W-Body-Regal

[White93z34]

These cars are different then most with how the front suspension works. 

The seat sits well below where the strut nut is it won't be in your way at all.

I've had them get to the point where the strut and spring wants to kick to the side when the upper mount is removed, can get sketchy. There is another tool meant to fit inside to maintain order in the event of that situation.

As for the oil, keep it, remove it. really makes no difference. Listen to your heart.

[89-W-Body-Regal]

3 hours ago, White93z34 said:

These cars are different then most with how the front suspension works. 

The seat sits well below where the strut nut is it won't be in your way at all.

I've had them get to the point where the strut and spring wants to kick to the side when the upper mount is removed, can get sketchy. There is another tool meant to fit inside to maintain order in the event of that situation.

As for the oil, keep it, remove it. really makes no difference. Listen to your heart.

Which tool is that because when I’ve tried to use the strut service tool kit from the dealership that was for these cartridges according to my Buick shop manual. Here are the steps I took: let me know if i am missing anything because it’s my first time doing this and i was not successful.

- First I removed the strut mounting plate with the 3 nuts.
- Next I removed the top nut for the cartridge with an impact socket. The special socket and Torx socket didn’t work. I am assuming because it’s corrosive. It still came off with the impact the nut.
- Then I removed the rubber strut mount bumper prying it off with a screw driver.
- Next the service manual says to remove the jounce bumper (the little foam bumper)I didn’t see that on mine. That must have never been reinstalled when we had a shop done the cartilage years ago.
- Next I tightened the strut extension bar onto the top of the strut cartridge where the nut goes on top of the shaft. The extension bar let me push down on the spring to compress it with the wheel on the ground.
-I then removed that tool as soon as I compressed the cartridge down and it was tough because the cartridge would move side to side with that tool when I was trying to loosen it. When it came time to use that other extension bar with the closure nut socket on it to loosen the cartridge closure nut I couldn’t fit that bar down into the strut tower from the top because I had no access to fit it down into the tower hole.
 

I think it’s because the black seat that is fastened to the top of the knuckle is covering the hole so it won’t let me access the closure nut to loosen the cartridge tool. I don’t know why but there is another dealer tool by Kent Moore to actually service the whole knuckle too. It says you need to remove the whole knuckle to use the spring compressor.

In this video the guy makes it look easy. He just fits the cartridge tool down in the tower and out comes the cartridge. It wasn’t like that on my regal. So I stopped at the point where I couldn’t get the bar to fit down into the tower to remove the cartridge.

 

PS. Thank you for the kind information about removing the oil that it’s only by choice not required to do so.

Edited 20 hours ago by 89-W-Body-Regal

[ron350]

Please post some pictures or a video so we can see what is going wrong?

 

 

[89-W-Body-Regal]

Thank you definitely with keep you posted when I do again. I am going to get the tool again. I sent it back because I couldn’t use it but I’ll be getting another kit.

Edited 15 hours ago by 89-W-Body-Regal

[55trucker]

10 hours ago, 89-W-Body-Regal said:

Which tool is that because when I’ve tried to use the strut service tool kit from the dealership that was for these cartridges according to my Buick shop manual. Here are the steps I took: let me know if i am missing anything because it’s my first time doing this and i was not successful.

 

this is one suppliers kit.

 

https://westerntool.com.au/wp-content/uploads/AT185.jpg

[White93z34]

90% of the time the only special tool I use is the spanner nut tool that actually unscrews it from the cartridge.

Like I said I've had it where as soon as you pull the upper mount the strut rod wants to go hard to one side or the other thats where this tool, circled comes in to help stabilize it while you work.. also obviously make sure you're on level ground.

then you jam the spanner tool down over it and spin it out pull the strut cartridge, slam the new one in and tighten it back down.

 

[55trucker]

I have a similar *Powerbuilt* kit.