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LQ1 Timing belt


Taper123
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Have a 93 Lumina euro with the 3.4  Looks like my timing belt decided to tear itself up on me while driving.

 

Does this engine have valve reliefs so that it did not bend the valves?   Had a old Chrysler you could shred all the belts you wanted, just realign and put on a new belt.  A honda though...  it bent almost every valve.   SO wanted to know if I'm in for a belt change/timing or much much more.

 

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Searched the internet... and it appears that the 93 was a non-interfering engine.   Was on way home from a 200 mile trip, and was slowing down for a curve (about 20 mph) and suddenly lost all power.  Literally under 2 miles from my driveway.

 

Now to search for good writeups / videos on what I need to do.    Any suggestions on parts to use?   Engine actually just turned...  60k miles on this trip.

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1 hour ago, Taper123 said:

Searched the internet... and it appears that the 93 was a non-interfering engine.   Was on way home from a 200 mile trip, and was slowing down for a curve (about 20 mph) and suddenly lost all power.  Literally under 2 miles from my driveway.

 

Now to search for good writeups / videos on what I need to do.    Any suggestions on parts to use?   Engine actually just turned...  60k miles on this trip.

There is some really good information here on this subject.  I'm sure guys will chime in.  There should be something in the Powertrain section.  You might have to dig a little.  I will be doing this to my 3.4 Cutlass soon.  Any pics?

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You *should* be good. It's technically non interference, but its not completely unheard of to bend valves. If it was a low-mid RPM you are probably good. I had the same thing happen ages ago and I was fine.

I've done this job many times now, its not as bad as it seems but it is rather time consuming.

For a 93 you will NEED, at minimum:

Valve cover gasket set, intake gasket set, Timing belt, all 3 idler pulleys.

You'll need at minimum tool wise the cam sprocket removal tool, the cam cog holder tool and either the cam hold down tools or some flat stock with a hole drilled in it to lock the cams in position.

Now the kick in the nuts. The actual timing belt tensioner actuator is getting difficult to find now. It's a GM dealer item only and I don't know if its still in production. If the spring inside that broke you'll need a new one. If its still good it can be reused. You'll discover that in the teardown, I'm sure. Make sure to refill it with oil when you have it retracted and to replace the rubber plug.

If you search through my posts I think I've covered it or semi covered it 2-3 times. The first time I did it I think I used a writeup from 60degreev6.com and the factory manual

There's probably another 5 pages I could write on it, but let me know what you have questions about after doing some reading.

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Hopefully to put your mind at a little more ease, mine decided to fail going 70 while cruising down the freeway, so still relatively low rpm’s and I had no issues

 

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1 hour ago, White93z34 said:

You *should* be good. It's technically non interference, but its not completely unheard of to bend valves. If it was a low-mid RPM you are probably good. I had the same thing happen ages ago and I was fine.

I've done this job many times now, its not as bad as it seems but it is rather time consuming.

For a 93 you will NEED, at minimum:

Valve cover gasket set, intake gasket set, Timing belt, all 3 idler pulleys.

You'll need at minimum tool wise the cam sprocket removal tool, the cam cog holder tool and either the cam hold down tools or some flat stock with a hole drilled in it to lock the cams in position.

Now the kick in the nuts. The actual timing belt tensioner actuator is getting difficult to find now. It's a GM dealer item only and I don't know if its still in production. If the spring inside that broke you'll need a new one. If its still good it can be reused. You'll discover that in the teardown, I'm sure. Make sure to refill it with oil when you have it retracted and to replace the rubber plug.

If you search through my posts I think I've covered it or semi covered it 2-3 times. The first time I did it I think I used a writeup from 60degreev6.com and the factory manual

There's probably another 5 pages I could write on it, but let me know what you have questions about after doing some reading.

I got these a few month ago, maybe like February?  I can't remember but it was sometime around there so maybe they are still available somewhat.  One's for the International and the other is for the STE if they need them.  Good info and thank you!

RCw0lC.jpg

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Thanks for the replies.

 

Going to start making a parts list and get these items ordered.   Figure while I'm at it, it's been dripping oil so I'll see where the it's coming from.

 

Only other issue I have with the car..  is the power window switch on the drivers side doesn't always want to work for the drivers window.  Anyone know where I could get a new one (four windows, it's a four door)   if not I might be able to drill out the rivets and clean it up and reassemble.

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If you'll notice the box has a date of 2009, its been on a shelf for awhile!

The oil leak, is likely from the oil pump shaft on the other side of the engine. No better time then to just pull the lower intake while you are there. Its a bastard of a job, and can't be done properly without removing the rear cylinder head, plenty of other ways to go about it though. 

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1 hour ago, White93z34 said:

If you'll notice the box has a date of 2009, its been on a shelf for awhile!

The oil leak, is likely from the oil pump shaft on the other side of the engine. No better time then to just pull the lower intake while you are there. Its a bastard of a job, and can't be done properly without removing the rear cylinder head, plenty of other ways to go about it though. 

I did notice that!  Either I lucked out or maybe there are still some left on shelves somewhere. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Work had me out of town for a week, and busy the week before.   Finally ordered the parts to get this back on the road.   Now for the hard part...  cleaning out space in the garage.   I've been needing to clean it for a while.   

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  • 2 years later...

Ok...   can't say IO don't procrastinate sometimes.

 

Two years later...   Finally put it in my garage.    Pulled the covers off and cleaned out all the muck from the belt...  Now to try to align the marks and put the belt on without the cam tool that I do not have.

  No photo description available.  No photo description available.May be an image of car

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Pulled the front valve cover... and cams are not aligned.    Figured the rear would be off too.  So before I go pulling the intake off to get to that one...    Any good tips on cam alignment without the cam tool?   Or should I start looking for one?

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I’ve never done this myself but I do know from reading many many write ups that you absolutely need the cam hold down tools.  You can get the kentmoore tools on eBay fairly easy. Get the entire kit and not just the parts individually.  Or you can build your own out of square stock if needed and you can’t wait.  also a very good idea to get the GM service manuals at the same time, they’re very thorough and kind of a needed item for wrenching on these cars anyway. 

https://youtu.be/UuF6QMAY2K4   this is for 94-96 but same idea. I would skip the alterations they made to the timing itself using the homemade axle wedges though. 
 

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I've replaced three belts.  None of them were ruined.

The first two, I just made paint marks on the belt and each pulley.  Pulled the old belt off, counted the notches between the paint marks, and marked the new belt in the same places.  Put the belt on with the paint marks aligned, engines ran great.

The third time I did a belt, I actually used the "special tools" to pull the pulleys off the end of the cams, lock the cams in position, etc.  It's a pain in the ass, but with no "old" belt to guide you, it's about the only way.

I'm kinda thinking that there's a corrugated spacer between cam and pulley, and you're supposed to replace it each time.  I went nuts looking for 'em; never did find any, so I re-used the originals.  They changed the design some time after '93, no more corrugated spacers.

 

If you're in there anyway, you might want to consider doing the Service Bulletin Update for camshaft/lifter oiling.  You'd need to get the thrust plates machined a little thinner, other than that it's really easy when the head is removed for head gasket replacement; it's less easy with the heads still on the vehicle.  I did an extensive "How To" article on www.60degreeV6.com

http://www.60degreev6.com/vb5/articles/-1991-1997-dohc-aa/424720-lq1-service-bulletin-57-61-09-lifter-tick-cold

 

 

Edited by Schurkey
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Searching ebay and amazon today for the tools to do it right.   Will order a intake manifold gasket too.   Got called out of town, and have to leave again...  so hopefully by next weekend I will have what I need to finish this.   Was always a great car, and look forward to having it on the road again.   For a 93 with under 65k miles...  it's worth fixing.

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On 11/13/2021 at 1:28 PM, Taper123 said:

Searching ebay and amazon today for the tools to do it right.   Will order a intake manifold gasket too.   Got called out of town, and have to leave again...  so hopefully by next weekend I will have what I need to finish this.   Was always a great car, and look forward to having it on the road again.   For a 93 with under 65k miles...  it's worth fixing.

Looks like a really beautiful car.  These are also pretty rare.  

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Love the Lumina Z cars...always wanted one. Always glad to see someone keeping one running. I've never done a timing belt...I typically paid to have it done at my local shop. Yes its more money but he does quality work and I have the car back way faster than I could do it alone. Not to mention how much I hate working on things in tight quarters.

Hope you get it going again soon!

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