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Taper123

LQ1 Timing belt

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Have a 93 Lumina euro with the 3.4  Looks like my timing belt decided to tear itself up on me while driving.

 

Does this engine have valve reliefs so that it did not bend the valves?   Had a old Chrysler you could shred all the belts you wanted, just realign and put on a new belt.  A honda though...  it bent almost every valve.   SO wanted to know if I'm in for a belt change/timing or much much more.

 

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Searched the internet... and it appears that the 93 was a non-interfering engine.   Was on way home from a 200 mile trip, and was slowing down for a curve (about 20 mph) and suddenly lost all power.  Literally under 2 miles from my driveway.

 

Now to search for good writeups / videos on what I need to do.    Any suggestions on parts to use?   Engine actually just turned...  60k miles on this trip.

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1 hour ago, Taper123 said:

Searched the internet... and it appears that the 93 was a non-interfering engine.   Was on way home from a 200 mile trip, and was slowing down for a curve (about 20 mph) and suddenly lost all power.  Literally under 2 miles from my driveway.

 

Now to search for good writeups / videos on what I need to do.    Any suggestions on parts to use?   Engine actually just turned...  60k miles on this trip.

There is some really good information here on this subject.  I'm sure guys will chime in.  There should be something in the Powertrain section.  You might have to dig a little.  I will be doing this to my 3.4 Cutlass soon.  Any pics?

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You *should* be good. It's technically non interference, but its not completely unheard of to bend valves. If it was a low-mid RPM you are probably good. I had the same thing happen ages ago and I was fine.

I've done this job many times now, its not as bad as it seems but it is rather time consuming.

For a 93 you will NEED, at minimum:

Valve cover gasket set, intake gasket set, Timing belt, all 3 idler pulleys.

You'll need at minimum tool wise the cam sprocket removal tool, the cam cog holder tool and either the cam hold down tools or some flat stock with a hole drilled in it to lock the cams in position.

Now the kick in the nuts. The actual timing belt tensioner actuator is getting difficult to find now. It's a GM dealer item only and I don't know if its still in production. If the spring inside that broke you'll need a new one. If its still good it can be reused. You'll discover that in the teardown, I'm sure. Make sure to refill it with oil when you have it retracted and to replace the rubber plug.

If you search through my posts I think I've covered it or semi covered it 2-3 times. The first time I did it I think I used a writeup from 60degreev6.com and the factory manual

There's probably another 5 pages I could write on it, but let me know what you have questions about after doing some reading.

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1 hour ago, White93z34 said:

You *should* be good. It's technically non interference, but its not completely unheard of to bend valves. If it was a low-mid RPM you are probably good. I had the same thing happen ages ago and I was fine.

I've done this job many times now, its not as bad as it seems but it is rather time consuming.

For a 93 you will NEED, at minimum:

Valve cover gasket set, intake gasket set, Timing belt, all 3 idler pulleys.

You'll need at minimum tool wise the cam sprocket removal tool, the cam cog holder tool and either the cam hold down tools or some flat stock with a hole drilled in it to lock the cams in position.

Now the kick in the nuts. The actual timing belt tensioner actuator is getting difficult to find now. It's a GM dealer item only and I don't know if its still in production. If the spring inside that broke you'll need a new one. If its still good it can be reused. You'll discover that in the teardown, I'm sure. Make sure to refill it with oil when you have it retracted and to replace the rubber plug.

If you search through my posts I think I've covered it or semi covered it 2-3 times. The first time I did it I think I used a writeup from 60degreev6.com and the factory manual

There's probably another 5 pages I could write on it, but let me know what you have questions about after doing some reading.

I got these a few month ago, maybe like February?  I can't remember but it was sometime around there so maybe they are still available somewhat.  One's for the International and the other is for the STE if they need them.  Good info and thank you!

RCw0lC.jpg

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Thanks for the replies.

 

Going to start making a parts list and get these items ordered.   Figure while I'm at it, it's been dripping oil so I'll see where the it's coming from.

 

Only other issue I have with the car..  is the power window switch on the drivers side doesn't always want to work for the drivers window.  Anyone know where I could get a new one (four windows, it's a four door)   if not I might be able to drill out the rivets and clean it up and reassemble.

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If you'll notice the box has a date of 2009, its been on a shelf for awhile!

The oil leak, is likely from the oil pump shaft on the other side of the engine. No better time then to just pull the lower intake while you are there. Its a bastard of a job, and can't be done properly without removing the rear cylinder head, plenty of other ways to go about it though. 

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1 hour ago, White93z34 said:

If you'll notice the box has a date of 2009, its been on a shelf for awhile!

The oil leak, is likely from the oil pump shaft on the other side of the engine. No better time then to just pull the lower intake while you are there. Its a bastard of a job, and can't be done properly without removing the rear cylinder head, plenty of other ways to go about it though. 

I did notice that!  Either I lucked out or maybe there are still some left on shelves somewhere. 

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Work had me out of town for a week, and busy the week before.   Finally ordered the parts to get this back on the road.   Now for the hard part...  cleaning out space in the garage.   I've been needing to clean it for a while.   

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