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cdn_olds_94

Found the leak...

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Now that the weather is starting to get warmer, I've started fixing the coolent leak in my 94 Cutlass Convertible with the 3.4 DOHC. I knew where the leak was and made a plan to get the coolent pipe out to see if it could be fixed or get a replacment one.  So after 2hours of fighting, I got it out. I think that the rust rot is too far gone to weld up but it's only in one spot so I think that I can cut it out and weld a new sleeve over it. If i can't fix this I'm hoping that I can find a replacment tube.  

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Edited by cdn_olds_94

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You could also cut out the rusted portion, and use an 1" heater hose and clamps to join the sections.

I'd recommend covering/protecting the heater hose, if you put a bracket on the hose, to attach it to the car.
You could always use another section of heater hose, cut it in half, and use that to protect the main heater hose.

You could also use 1" copper tube, hot water rated, and join the ends with a heater hose sections and clamps.

I had to do something similar for my power steering cooler pipe, since it's no longer offered.

Good Luck!

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I see stuff like that and always think there's a story behind the ridiculous.

Like an engineer who was pissed off at work and decided GM was going to make 40,000 big long stupid tubes because he couldn't get the vacation week he wanted.

Or maybe something failed late in the game in R&D so someone randomly grabbed a hunk of tube and it managed to make it to production.

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11 hours ago, Imp558 said:

I see stuff like that and always think there's a story behind the ridiculous.

Like an engineer who was pissed off at work and decided GM was going to make 40,000 big long stupid tubes because he couldn't get the vacation week he wanted.

Or maybe something failed late in the game in R&D so someone randomly grabbed a hunk of tube and it managed to make it to production.

Or it was thought up after a liquid lunch on a Friday afternoon. Since I have limited space in my garage, I couldn't take it out from the bottom of the engine bay. So I took it out from the top. I removed the ' dog bone ' engine mount, disconected the main wireing conection on the firewall and rolled the engine forward enough to wiggle the tube out. If I didn't do it this way, I would have had to remove the passenger side front wheel, along with the CV shaft and altenator. 

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There is a *3.1* engine replacement, you can see it at Rockauto, the difference is the engine end flexible hose, the DOHC hose is shorter, the 3.1 piece hose is molded to a different angle than the DOHC end. It's $34 Can.

Edited by 55trucker

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23 hours ago, 55trucker said:

There is a *3.1* engine replacement, you can see it at Rockauto, the difference is the engine end flexible hose, the DOHC hose is shorter, the 3.1 piece hose is molded to a different angle than the DOHC end. It's $34 Can.

Thanks for the info. I'll take a look. 

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6 hours ago, pontiac6ksteawd said:

Is there a reason you couldnt just use some 1" heater hose for the entire length?

Actually that's exactly what I did when I replaced the engine/trans in my 93 Z34... I went from the heater core (I believe) to that weird  piece where the hoses meet... 55T,,, you were looking for one a while ago,,, there was a difference between years and number of hoses and I think you tried welding at one point...

It was a bit awkward but without the engine in the way I could route the hose so there were NO kinks and it didn't interfere with anything... I remember Jon,,, PocketRocket at 60* v6.com found a replacement... It was for a pushrod engine it worked fine on the DOHC...

Good luck,,,

Tom B...

Edited by walterdude

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Yeah pretty ridiculous that they routed a coolant hose made of metal through a significantly corrosion/salt prone area, basically the wheel well.  

On the 3.1, it wasn't too difficult to replace.  Had to undo the body harness though.  And rock the engine forward.  

BTW '94, check your spring seats*.  I had one catastrophically fail on the highway on my 1992 from corrosion ~3 years ago, and the other one was on the verge of failure.  Very little rust on my car otherwise, but water pools in the spring seat and basically eats at the metal over time.

* unfortunately there's no good way of checking them aside from removal and disassembly of the whole spring assembly.

Edited by pitzel

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Just an update. I found a new Heater Pipe online so I bought it and it should be here early next week. Once i get it, it's put her back together and she's good to go.

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On 3/29/2019 at 5:54 PM, 55trucker said:

Before you install it give a coating with some undercoating/truck bed liner etc  etc to protect it.

Done and done. I finished installing the new pipe yesterday. Before installing, bought a can of spray on bed liner and coated the pipe. Installation was easier then taking it out and so far no leaks.

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On 5/2/2019 at 7:30 PM, 55trucker said:

One more item to check off the list...,

 

what's next?

Next project is Claying the paint. I used a Clay Bar on the trunk lid in the fall and was very pleased with the way it cleaned up the finish of the paint. 

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