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Brodizzle83

Sunroof stuck in tilt position - 96 GP SE

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Are you sure it's the motor gearbox? Whichever one you go for I'd take the old one in hand for comparison. If you take a cordless drill battery and a couple hunks of wire with you they can be tested before you take them off the cars.

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In post #17 I provided a link to the GM years that the motor was used & the cars it was installed into. Why your motor does not have a manual override provision is puzzling, when you come across another motor look for the gear drive override, take your *key* with you.

 

I take it that at this point you haven't removed the motor from the roof?

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In post #17 I provided a link to the GM years that the motor was used & the cars it was installed into. Why your motor does not have a manual override provision is puzzling, when you come across another motor look for the gear drive override, take your *key* with you.

 

I take it that at this point you haven't removed the motor from the roof?

I clicked on the link and it doesn't work. And no, I havent removed the motor yet. But yeah...the illustration in the factory service manual shows it has the "override" slot, and the motor in my car clearly doesn't have it.

 

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Are you sure it's the motor gearbox? Whichever one you go for I'd take the old one in hand for comparison. If you take a cordless drill battery and a couple hunks of wire with you they can be tested before you take them off the cars.

I'm running to the junk yard tomorrow morning to get a motor. How do I check the motor with the 18v battery? Is there a chance of frying the motor since it's an 18v battery and not 12v?

 

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I'm running to the junk yard tomorrow morning to get a motor. How do I check the motor with the 18v battery? Is there a chance of frying the motor since it's an 18v battery and not 12v?

 

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I use my 18V batteries to test window motors and Move power seats in cars when pulling stuff. Just connect the positive to one side, negative to the other. They are made for voltage spikes and usually have a wide input range. The more delicate electronics with circuit boards I may not try, but others, yes.

 

Also, pro-tip. Bring a rubber band or something to attach your wires to your drill battery, or make something at home as it is hard to hold both sides with only 2 hands. 

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Bummer dudes...the way I tested the old motor was wrong. I plugged the old one to the 18v Ryobi battery and it worked. I re-tested it because I plugged the "new" motor into the car and hit the button before I installed it and it didn't work. All that happens is the relay clicks. Maybe it's a bad relay?

 

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It's not just a *relay*,

 

there are two relays inside the control module, one is the *forward* and the second is the *back*. Seeing as the replacement motor you purchased is working I have to believe that the module has failed.

 

Did you verify that you have voltage to both the switch & to the module as well as out of the module to the motor?

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No, I haven't checked any of that. To be completely honest, electrical is my least knowledgeable topic in the automotive world. I have no idea how to check that stuff. It's a little embarrassing, but also the truth.

 

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I'll post some schematics tomorrow

Thanks man, I appreciate all the help from everyone. This is by far my favorite forum ever! So many people willing to help each other out!

 

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