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Cylinder head removal


KnightOwl

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No, I taped the alternator and pushed pieces of brown paper under the housing. I still got some paint on the armature but it didn't affect operation that I could tell. The plug wires I bought from Summit as a universal V8 kit. You cut to length and add the tips...time consuming but worked well. The wire looms are mounted to the valve cover bolts. The FWI was powdercoated (bought that way) but everything else is hi-temp engine paint. What was really funny was I painted the front P-log with a specific ceramic exhaust paint, but as soon as I started the car the stuff smoked like it was on fire. A lot of it flaked off but I was surprised how much of it actually stuck until I traded the car 4 years later.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Was looking on the Intense website last night and noticed the head stud kit. Interesting concept but I noticed the recommended torquing to 70 then rechecking after the engine has run. Dont the exhaust manifolds have to be off to reach the bottom row of bolts? 

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In another post I asked about head studs, digitaloutsider gave me the ARP numbers and they can be found anywhere, even Amazon:

 

ARP 193-4001 or 193-4002 if you want the 12pt nuts

 

http://www.w-body.com/topic/56165-my-2002-gt-junkyard-upgrade-never-ending/page-3

 

 

 

If memory serves me you can get to them with a shallow socket and swivel, or worst case scenario a crow's foot

Edited by Imp558
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I was reading last night that if you snug the studs on install, then do a three increment 30/60/90 torque sequence, retightening after running isn't really required.

 

 

 

Anyone else done this?

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I definitely agree on the multiple step torqueing process, as I did years ago with a few engines I had apart to that extent, but I've never come back and re-torqued heads after running the engine a few full warm-up cycles

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