130k 1996 Grand Prix Maintenance

[PCGUY112887]

Well I am at about 130K now. Obviously a lot has already been done to the car. Basically everything under the hood is new(er) aside from the transmission. The alternator came off the old motor, but it's marked as a REMAN so it's been replaced before. Some suspension parts have already been replaced (see signature). Still using the old ICM as well which I presume is original. Front brake calipers are original, rears are replacements, all new rotors. Both rear wheel bearings have been replaced.

 

What other type of maintenance am I looking at approaching this age? I don't think the transmission mount has been changed, I am considering doing it. I don't know if the fuel pump has ever been changed or not, that was the first thing to die on my old GP Sedan which is how I ended up meeting my current mechanic. All of the bulbs have been replaced, new lights in the front, and I even replaced the rear tail lights since they were leaking. I have noticed a number of bulbs are out on the interior however (behind the cluster and behind the HVAC controls), and they all seem to be a huge PITA to replace so I haven't done it.

 

I think my rear window needs resealing since it squeeks like MAD and lets in moisture. My trunk leaks too. Can I buy a new gasket set or something for the trunk?

 

I don't know if the door handle has ever broken (the linkage inside) but I do know the key hole barely works in the drivers door, good thing I had keyless entry installed.

 

Any other common things you guys have run into that I should think about?

[GOT2B GM]

Have the trans fluid changed if you haven't had it done.

 

 

[Andrew]

Have all the fluids changed.

fixed

 

fuel filter?

struts?

tires?

 

otherwise, just save up a few hundred for when something does go wrong.

[xtremerevolution]

X2 on the transmission fluid. Drain it, and refill it, don't flush it. There's no point in flushing it.

 

Sway bar bushings on the front if you don't already have them. I'd suggest going with Energy Suspension bushings. They're relatively cheap, provide much better cornering ability over stock, and don't reduce your ride quality.

 

If replacing the rear struts, replace the strut mounts as well.

 

End pads on the rear transverse leaf spring.

 

 

[BXX]

X2 on the transmission fluid. Drain it, and refill it, don't flush it. There's no point in flushing it.

 

Sway bar bushings on the front if you don't already have them. I'd suggest going with Energy Suspension bushings. They're relatively cheap, provide much better cornering ability over stock, and don't reduce your ride quality.

 

If replacing the rear struts, replace the strut mounts as well.

 

End pads on the rear transverse leaf spring.

 

 

 

To enlighten people..

 

A flush doesnt exist much anymore. They are called a fluid exchange now. Why?? Because they dont pressureize the system and back flush it. The simply exhange the fluid (out with old, in with new) under the pressure of the trans system itself. Perfectly safe so long as the trans isnt close to being a paperweight soon anyway.

 

A drain and fill doesnt get all the crap fluid out of the converter and other areas. A proper fluid exhange will get all the fluid out and clean up varnish and other goo that can cause problems in the trans.

[xtremerevolution]

X2 on the transmission fluid. Drain it' date=' and refill it, don't flush it. There's no point in flushing it.

 

Sway bar bushings on the front if you don't already have them. I'd suggest going with Energy Suspension bushings. They're relatively cheap, provide much better cornering ability over stock, and don't reduce your ride quality.

 

If replacing the rear struts, replace the strut mounts as well.

 

End pads on the rear transverse leaf spring.

 

 

[/quote']

 

To enlighten people..

 

A flush doesnt exist much anymore. They are called a fluid exchange now. Why?? Because they dont pressureize the system and back flush it. The simply exhange the fluid (out with old, in with new) under the pressure of the trans system itself. Perfectly safe so long as the trans isnt close to being a paperweight soon anyway.

 

A drain and fill doesnt get all the crap fluid out of the converter and other areas. A proper fluid exhange will get all the fluid out and clean up varnish and other goo that can cause problems in the trans.

 

I learn something every day.

 

 

Wish I had the $90 for a "professional" fluid exchange though.

[White93z34]

considering what the cost of the fluid is, $90 does not seem that bad of a price.

[xtremerevolution]

considering what the cost of the fluid is, $90 does not seem that bad of a price.

 

1 gallon of non-synthetic ATF is $15 when its not on sale, which I'm assuming is what they'd put in your car at an oil change place for that $90. If I did it myself, I'd lose the benefit of the alternate fluid exchange, but save $60 in the process (+ tax).

[BXX]

I know where I work and where I used to the ATF is synthetic.

 

 

If you did it yourself, thats great. But its like doing an oil change, but leaving a few quarts of the old crap in there.

[Night Fury]

I know where I work and where I used to the ATF is synthetic.

 

 

If you did it yourself' date=' thats great. But its like doing an oil change, but leaving a few quarts of the old crap in there.

[/quote']

 

Exactly, useless.

[xtremerevolution]

Boohoo. A couple of quarts of the old stuff won't make a difference. I drained out a full 8 quarts of fluid when I dropped my pan two days ago, and needed a full 8 quarts to fill it back up, and the fluid out of the dipstick is as clear red as it was when I poured it, so there must not have been much left in there to start.