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I've only seen terrible results from those products

This may be dumb questioning, but I have an 08 grand prix gxp, ran fine and let it sit for a month with some on and off driving in between. At some point, charging system stopped working, and charging doesnt go above 13.4-13.5v, and won't give more when going lower from accessories or cold starts. I do have a b1516 code and current sensor has correct sensor replaced, only other things found are the ground wire to bcm from battery shows about 3-4v when reading, and not sure what the current sensor pins should read. It does charge higher and adjust if i clear the b1516 code until it comes back as well, and drops back to 13.4v. I'm still very much novice, so some insight and help would be great.

I've never used that product, but I'm generally not a fan of stop leak products. I've used them in the distant past. In my experience, they tend to cause more problems down the road.

Thanks I will check that out. I did buy some of Bar Seal's best stuff and already it seems to be working. I'll know more about that in a few days. There was coolant on top of the hold down bolt (for the oil pump drive) and moving on down that way. But, I cleaned it all off before putting in the bar seal, followed the instructions and then drove the car a bit. No leaks last night and no leaks this morning, it's all dried out. Hopefully this will be the end of that, but I will keep my eye on that fitting.

Picked up a 1994 Pontiac Grand Prix coupe a few months back for a good price. Im in the process of putting a new motor in it due to an oil pump failure. But I've been thinking about suspension and steering system modifications. There isn't anything available for the 1994 but there's a ton of support for 1997+. Due to differences with the control arms I figured that easiest way to retrofit would be to swap a subframe from a newer Grand Prix into my '94 but I'm not sure if that's possible. From looking up photos online The general shape and mounting position seems to be the same. I was just wondering if anyone's ever done this swap before to update the suspension and steering because I'm sure anything's better than the cartridge strip design in terms of performance.

It should retract. Almost seems like it could be getting bound on something as you said it drops slightly below the close point. You can check for it getting mechanically bound by removing the fuse and connecting a multimeter in Amps mode in place of the fuse. When it stops moving, see if it's drawing any current. If it is, the motor wants to move it, but it's getting mechanically bound. If no current when it stops, then a switch or relay is electrically preventing it from moving further.

It's possible coolant can leak from the intake manifold if they messed up the install somehow, but it's also possible it could be the heater hose quick-connect fitting. That's another source of coolant leaking from around that area that I believe is a fairly common issue. Especially more likely since they had to disconnect the fitting and probably didn't replace the fitting. It's this part: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/oldsmobile,1994,cutlass+supreme,3.4l+v6,1223367,heat+&+air+conditioning,heater+hose+connector,6876 It's located right above the crossover pipe and you might see evidence of coolant having dripped on the crossover pipe shield if it's leaking. I would put a white cloth under it and see if it gets wet.

Well, that's not fun. Got all the aftermarket audio equipment pulled. Plugged in the factory radio and... sounds distorted on the left channel, right channel completely out. Pop sounds when I push the buttons. It worked fine when pulled 32-years ago, so I'm guessing something that ages has gone bad. Probably electrolytic capacitors. I've read there are some green ones that like to go bad and leak. I just learned today the amp/radio module is the same as used in GMT400 pickups. I guess that explains why these radios are modular and can be taken apart into smaller modules. Vehicles with the split radios used the same modules with cables connecting them.

Sweet! Sucks that you can’t make a new account though, searching the forum is cool but if I want to view an individuals account I can’t without my own:/ still great work keeping the site up though, great wealth of information

TGPforums.com is now working again. It is still in archive status, meaning no new member registrations are allowed, but the forum is searchable without the need for a registered account.

Now in that same spot I see a coolant leak . Very small but it's there. I will be trying out some bar-seal stop leak on it in the hope this will stop it. Something else that's odd is, I had them change out the LOW COOLANT sensor for a new one, and the LOW COOLANT warning still went on anyway. The car is not low on coolant. Geez.

The booster is held on with a 1/4 turn lock. Make sure the locking tab isn’t holding it from rotating, (push/pull it into unlocked position.) then get a prybar on the master cylinder studs and rotate it off. It’s so simple it’s stupid. Just an odd ball design.

My father owns a 94 cutlass supreme convertible and its brake booster has failed. Everywhere i look for steps to replace the booster mentions 4 bolts holding the booster from inside the firewall, however, when I go to look, no bolts are to be found. When I look at the new booster, it seems to lock into place using grooves and some kind of locking bar. Nothing I do really does anything to get this booster to move and I am stumped on how to progress. The coter pin is out and the pedal disconnected. The master cylinder and abs contraption is off and out of the way. Theoretically, it should pop right out, yet it holds firm. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance.

Hey everyone, im currently looking for a couple of trim pieces for my 2002 buick regal. Im looking at getting the passenger door trim molding (exterior) and the rear deck seat belt cover (pic attached) willing to buy a whole door if need be

Don't know how important this was to the corrosion resistance, but I forgot to mention I primed mine with Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Compound spray. It worked surprisingly well as a primer on bare metal. It never chipped, flaked, or peeled. I don't know if it's the same formula today as the one I used a couple decades ago. Photos looks like it's now a smooth gray primer appearance, but mine was a very sparkly shiny bright metallic silver color. Almost looked like fine very fine glitter. Still have the can and looks like it's the same can as the current product though, so who knows.

When I did brakes on my truck, I used black caliper paint, just to protect the calipers, center of rotors, and the rear drums. It's held up fine. Anything driven up here in the salt, the brakes usually start looking bad after just a year.

You get it, you have those rims that visually open up the brake/suspension components much like the rims I have. When the rims and tires look good the rusty looking parts stand out. All the replacement parts for our 1st gens almost immediately flash rust out of the box and most 1st gen rims are mesh or solid so it never mattered, until 2026 when these are the "newest" classic antiques. I`m not trying to build a show car but something resembling a higher optioned factory 1 off that might show up at a show or randomly in traffic because the MPGs on a 3100.

Ok I tried the new relay and tried a different switch. Is it possible that my sunroof is only set up to tilt? I ask this because there is no effort to even try to open fully from the motor. Could the motor be bad? Or are there clips on the track that need to be removed? I just don’t get it.

Wrong plugs altogether? Or correct plugs but gapped incorrectly? OEM plugs were always a requirement for these cars, and even 20 years ago, we had quite a few bad running engine posts where the fix was "replaced plugs with OEM". I've seen these things run nearly flawless on heavily worn OEM plugs with gaps closer to the 0.090" range...so I'm not sure the gap alone was the main issue.

DOUBLE UPDATE - some really great news to report here. I was hoping for this and it just might be coming true..........I have been monitoring the amount of oil dripping in my flat pan since the return of the car, and its getting less and less. It may just be this was residual oil already on places on the motor that were not able to be wiped off, and I just might something here, an almost non-oil leaking LQ-1. Even the wife noticed how well the car is running, and if she notices, now that can't be bad, can it...........

SOLVED! It’s unreal, but the shop installed the wrong spark plugs! Gapped to 0.060” instead of 0.045”. I put the OEM plugs and it runs great.

UPDATE: Got the car back yesterday. A fantastic job was done by the mechanic. Maybe it's just me but the motor seems to be quieter and it's running much better, must be all those new intake gaskets(?). I checked this morning, there is no more oil coming from the oil pump drive, so it looks like the RTV will probably hold. Unfortunately the car is still leaking oil, coming from the lower part of the motor. Not anywhere near as bad as it was though, so for now it will be something I can live with. They also cleaned the engine compartment out of all the oil & grease, changed the oil, and installed a new EGR replacing the original one. Thanks to all for the advice on this one, this is one less major issue this LQ1 now has

I painted mine. Masked off the brake pad contact area. Held up pretty good 20+ years later, but I never drive it in winter.

I don't remember there being too much different in the wiring. I had installed a GM Accessories alarm in the '88 and was able to completely go by the wiring diagram and service manual of the '89.

Dude.... I own this car now.... Mine is exactly how your describing yours... From florida originally but Ohio car, hail damage, salvage title, center line wheels and the black hood and spoiler... Bro I have your car lol.