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I did a bit of digging on this a while ago and unfortunately if you want to change anything about the suspension rate in these cars now past what FE3 gives you'll either need to contact a spring shop or figure out how to fit coilovers on the car. There were custom coilover mounts available here but the last batch sold out years ago. I'm sure there are springs out there that fit the car and provide a stiffer rate than stock but as far as I'm aware nobody has come across ones that fit.

I gotcha. Just was wondering if there was something beefier for the W-Body I should look for.

The springs are not a *Chevy* thing....all 1st Gen W's with the FE3 got the stiffest coils available. What's under your Z34 is also under a GP with the FE3 suspension.

Not lower. Just have the best/highest spring rating chevy offered.

There are no longer aftermarket *performance* springs manufactured for the 1st gen W's, if you've got the FE3 suspension under the car then you've already got the stiffest springs available. I take it that you want lower the front to match the dropped rear's ride height?

1994 Lumina Z34. Already have the rear end taken care of, and I wanted to beef up the front. Anyone know of the firmest springs I can get for the front of that strut design? I think I read something a while ago about 1996 Monte Carlo 3.4 front springs would be it. Suggestions?

I’m leaning toward an injector issue. Belt and tensioner are new with the engine install. Vacuum lines are good. I’m going to replace the MAP and TPS. Definitely seems fuel or air related.

I am currently having issues with a p0401 code. This being after changing the egr vamve, changing vacuum hoses (intake vacuum hose, pcv hise as well), and smoke testing for leaks. It eventually leads to a cylinder 1 misfire. I did utilize a metal wire to clean out the passge from the egr to the throttle body - but, when I utilized a borroscope, it did still look a little crudy in there. I also wonder, behind the throttle boddy, there is a lot of black soot located there, there is a circular portion there that is the passage to the egr, does this have a small hole that leads to the egr passage, or a screen of some sort, or does it need to be completely clear? If so, this MAY be why, I cleared a small hole as the rest appeared to be hardened and I didn't want to break anything. Thanks for the assistance.

Yep. Same with mine. I did order that relay box from GMpartsGiant. Definitely worth a try.

I looked at the oe pulse board. And all the solder joints look good. A replacement looks like p/n 22154753. But is hard to find. There’s got to be something a little wrong. Like a ground or something. Now I’m only bench testing it it’s not bolted back onto car. Does it need to be mounted for it to get resistance? I’m really stressed about this.

right, thats how mine is and i was trying to deduce if his was the same setup (as I assume it is). reason being, from fully slid open -> closed, and closed -> vent both use the same side of the button, the same direction, and vice versa for opposite direction. if it's venting and closing/closed to venting properly, it may be getting bound up, but if it's one side of the switch every time it may be a different issue. If it drops a bit below, I'm thinking maybe it's not getting past the point of being down far enough to start sliding back; bound up, or even something wedged in there, but if it's going down below the roof line then it's at least attempting to start moving to the slid open position. Do this, with it vented, can you see a little tiny button on the side of one of the hinge/slide mechanisms? I thought for a while mine was just getting stuck pressed so it thought the sunroof was closed My issue was from vent -> close and close -> slid open that side of the switch/button/relay would work about 50% of the time for a while and then it got to the point where it would work less than 1% of the time, until I finally grabbed that other newer relay unit to experiment, and it worked out

I would`ve liked that badge to be illuminated on the door pillar with black powdercoated door handles/lockplate vs the vertical pillar handle design we got.

Bad belt/tensioner, dried out vacuum lines, failing injectors, worn out O2 sensor, ethanol gas, corroded battery/starter/alternator cables and grounds are all things ive experienced in the different versions of the 3.1 running poorly or not at all. A compression and fuel pressure test might be a good idea here.

Ive been getting water collecting in the spare tire well in the TGP and havent been able to figure out where its coming from. Thanks for mentioning the sealer failure, I will take a closer look.

When retracting...... the entire glass frame lowers to below the roofline & then retracts along the runners to the full stop position at the back end of the runner assembly. When the assembly is in the *closed position* the glass is flush with the roofline exterior.

is it supposed to drop a little further, and then continue sliding back? I wonder if it's a bit tight and getting bound up. Mine kinda pops a bit sometimes after i haven't used it in a while, but being this old if the motor is a bit weak i could see that stopping it

I had a buddy of mine take a look at my Lumina for the same issue, in the trunk opening and below the rear window. Seam sealer cracked and allowing water in. Also I can see it leaking/starting to rust underneath the taillights just below the rear bumper support. Seams of panels. Might want to look there. My body shop guy will probably sand blast it, reseal it, then paint.

Just open to vent and close I not sure if that helps. When it closes all the way the glass drops a little below the roof line. Like it does when it’s supposed to retract back. But obviously never does.

I'm putting together a comprehensive plan to stave off the rot out of the rear strut towers in my '88 GP SE 5-spd. Background Not sure how well known this is, or if this is a whole W-Body issue or something unique to the Gran Prix's, but this is what I've learned in my research. The factory seam sealer used on this generation was petroleum based, standard at the time, but over the years the petro chemicals leach out of the substrate, which creates micro-fractures in the sealer. These micro-fractures, through capillary action, soak up salt water and hold it tight up against body metal, thus accelerating body-rust in the exact locations the OEM seam sealer was meant to protect. Additionally, there's a void-pocket between the inner and outer sides of the strut towers themselves. Over time, condensation collects in those void pockets due to heating-cooling cycles and the resultant moisture has nowhere to go and thus sits in there and rots out the rear strut towers from the top-side down, while the seam sealer defect eats them from the bottom-side up. My Plan (Please Suggest Corrections) Drop the wheels and struts entirely. Power wash the wheel wells Wire wheel/brush the factory seam sealer away entirely Horizontal shelf where strut tower is spot-welded to the frame Vertical seams Circular seam where the strut mounting studs poke through. Spray wheel well side with Corroseal Use a 360 degree spray head to flood strut tower voids with Corroseal Allow 48hrs for Corrosel to fully react Spray Eastwood 2K Epoxy Primer. Apply from the wheel wells up Apply into the strut tower void from the trunk-side, down Wait 24-48hrs for primer to cure Apply 3M 08367 Urethane Seam Sealer to the same places in the strut tower that we'd removed the factory seam sealer from. Inject 3M 08852 Cavity Wax Plus into the strut tower void cavities accessible from the trunk side w/360 degree spray head Install a GM Buick "F-Bar", part 19417890, across the rear strut towers. Bead weld the "cups" to the "bar" for complete rigidity Unload the suspension by raising the rear of the car before installing the strut bar, so that it will be under tension immediately. That's my plan, it's entirely speculative based on a whole lot of research, so please let me know if you tink I'm going down a bad road, or if there's any avenues for improvement. From my personal research, this aside from catastrophic loss, this generation of Grand Prix's were more than likely to be scrapped out from this design flaw than anything else, so staving this off should help preserve my longevity, but please let me know what you think! Sincere Regards, AJM

right, but what positions does the sunroof go in relation? The switch and relay setup are separate

I ordered one to try. Thank you. I’ll keep you posted if I have questions about it.

It’s basically a rocker switch with two contact pin on the backside. Looks just like the windows switches

does this sunroof "close" in between the vent position and the slid back position, or open->closed->vent? Or is it closed->vent->open?

Hey guys, kind of sad to see this community fade over the years, but hopefully some of you have some thoughts on this. I bit the bullet and put a new engine in my ‘92 CS Convertible, 3.1L. Most of the top parts were transferred over to the new block. Old engine ran fine before, but blew out the LIM and hydrolocked. Runs and idles great now, but above say 30 mph I get sputtering/misfiring on acceleration under load. Any ideas? ICM and coil packs only have a few thousand miles on them. New plugs with engine install. Wires are almost new. Car sat for several months with 3/4 tank, Stabil added, but the fuel is about 10 months old. Swapped TPS. No difference. Vacuum looks good. Older fuel? Fuel filter? Bad injector(s)? MAP? I’m going to take it back to the mechanic if I can’t figure it out myself. IMG_7976.mov

Got another one for you. So wipers weren’t working figured out bad motor. Ok. Got new motor then it was a bad turn signal switch. Ok. So new motor and switch are working but only on high. Ok. So I swapped out the pulse relay thingy from old motor into new one. Ok. Great I have delay, low and high. But the motor is won’t turn off. As soon as I turn ignition on motor start spinning away. ?????? I left the pulse board in place from the old one, just swapped out the the contact pad with the relay and drive pawl. Thanks for any help!!