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Just my $.02....The one you enjoy driving the most is the one you keep. There is something to be said about a mechanically sorted, but less than visually perfect vehicle that you can simply jump in and drive without worry. As much as I hate to say it, any 1st Gen W that isn't a total beater is relatively rare these days. Individual rarities within that are almost irrelevant when it comes to market value of these cars and I would go for the colour combo I like better, rather than the rarer combo every single time.

Both are pretty clean underneath. Not Southern California clean but pretty good - I have no concerns about their integrity. Obviously the black one isn't looking as hot now that it sat out side for a time. It likely won't be available till next spring at soonest as its in the very back of a pole barn and given that its October its probably well blocked in by other cars for winter storage by now. If you're interested PM me and we can take it from there. I have all sorts of parts that could be included including an engine. Its for sure not drivable without completely flushing the fuel out at minimum.

Ok, is the underside ok? How much would you want for the Black one?

Just the red one. Black is still PM3. If I keep it It will be getting converted before I drive it far.

That's a very cool pic. Did you say the ABS has been converted on both cars?

Here's a picture from back when the black car was in better days.

If you know Justin Worthing on FB...he use to have a Bright Red, Slate Gray cloth 1990 Turbo. It was in rough shape but absolutely no rust. Just needed to be cleaned and mechanical fixes. His is also 1 of the 4 Turbo cars I've seen with Gray interior. It's basically a base Turbo with no CD, moonroof, or leather.

Cloth.

that cloth or leather?

i was gonna whip this out but 94 olds beat me to it

I'll have to find some pictures. Best ones I have are from 10+ years ago when the black one was in far better shape. Long story short, engine blew up, it sat outside. Then I ended up with it and moved it to indoor storage but the time outside had already taken its toll. Right now its very dusty and sad looking and buried in the back of storage so its hard to even see it right now. Last couple weeks I've been daily driving my red one. Made me realize how much I've missed the turbo cars. I think technically speaking red/gray was the most rare color combo. If you'd have asked me years ago I'd have been on board with the gray interior all day long. Now I think the tan works with the gold wheels and badging. I'm torn because the chassis of the black car IS that much better. But I've put insane amounts of work into making the red one as good as it presently is. Not sure if rarity of the color combos really moves me like it would used to. Maybe I can use that to my advantage to get more money out of the black one. Some guy on FB wanted to buy both but wanted to pay a very small sum for them. I dono I think they tend to wear arrest me red better then black. I think whatever happens the sale of one and a bunch of parts will fund the restore of the other. I'm still very much torn as the black one when it was running really drove fantastically. I'm just rambling at this point.

With his Black car, I've only seen 4 with Gray interior. One of the 4 was a red car. This is 1 of the 4 gray interior cars. It was about an hour South of me at a private yard. It still might be there. Makes me incredibly sad.

If you like the red, keep the red one. It will be easier. I would go the torturous route because I would want the black/gray cloth one. That is what I want if I can find one. Or maybe the red one and swap to the gray cloth.

For me, definitely the Black one. It being Black...and having Medium Slate Gray cloth, that is uber rare in the TGP World. You know me, rarity is a big deal and that one is definitely incredibly rare and sought after. I firmly believe that even though it's not in the better shape, you'll regret selling it later.

My opinion would be to keep the car that is running and driving and start to do the body and paint work on it. I'm not sure how bad the exterior on the red TGP is. Body work can get expensive. I guess I would need some pictures of the red TGP.

So as some of you know I've recently pulled my red 90' TGP from its 9 years long slumber. I've been enjoying it quite a bit. Which has made me rethink selling all my TGP stuff... for the time being. However... I don't think I need 2 of these damn things. So help me decide which stays and which goes. Red 1990 TGP: Pros: Red/Tan leather/Sunroof/CD player 151,000 Miles Has the engine from my old wrecked TGP in it so approximately 40-50,000 fewer miles than the chassis, Runs great. recently rebuilt transmission Presently Running and driving Vacuum Brake converted Have brand new Turbo/Pontiac emblems in a box for it Body is pretty clean rust wise, no immediate concerns Rear subframe converted to 2g lat links 96' Front and rear brakes Cons: Needs a paint job Been in a few accidents, repaired... not the best. Could really use an entire Driver side B pillar replacement (have most of those parts) but is passable enough as is. Only original body panels are the pass door and fender. literally every other part has been replaced for one reason or another Black 1990 TGP: Pros: Black/Gray cloth/Tape deck I think 110,000 or someplace about there miles body is straight as an arrow Used to be owned by @LukeZ34so it has forum history 94' rear brakes Have a supposedly good engine on a stand for it. Cons: Also could use a paint job, not as bad but not good either Been off the road since about 2011, presently stored indoors Needs an engine - It ran but had very minimal oil pressure. Will need the fuel system totally flushed before it gets running. Still has PowerMaster brakes - worked last time it ran but it needs to go regardless. Obviously the black car is the better base on paper. But my irrational part loves how they look in red. Whats you guys take?

I just figured it out! Got the GXP brackets and calipers from NAPA. They cut the mounting part off and drilled/tapped new mounting holes.

I so very much hate these cross-era mashup cars, but my retinas are burned so I thought I'd share. https://www.junkyardlife.com/2015/11/luminac-repurposed-1958-cadillac-fins.html

I tried SSR ones. I think they're the same as the Trailblazer, but I'm not sure. It was the closest yet, but still not correct. Both of the holes on this bracket are 8 1/4 center to center. They're directly in line and the front brace is straight across. Not that that part really matters. I'm going to look at the Cardone catalog and see what I can find. I can ask them as well. Last resort I might take them off and see if NAPA can match them up. I did have my dad order GXP calipers with brackets from NAPA to his shop that I'm going to check out today, but I'm not very hopeful. Figured I'd give it a shot.

Reminds me of the caliper brackets on my Trailblazer. There's two kinds at the front, which has two-piston calipers. The calipers are the same, but the brackets are different between the regular-wheelbase Trailblazer (GMC Envoy, with Saab and Isuzu versions also.) and the extended-wheelbase Trailblazer and clones. The extended-wheelbase vehicles got slightly larger rotors, so the bolt spacing on the brackets is a little different.

all lights on with DRLS?........not here, as the moniker suggests DRL is daytime running lights for opposing traffic visibility. The original proposal for them was to be used in RURAL areas where the highway in front of you can stretch on in a relatively straight line for some distance, with the headlights on opposing traffic can be seen from a distance. They are not really needed at all in an urban environment.

Missouri is that way. Wipers on = headlights on. Although the law is poorly written and vague (as would be expected) - do DRLs count, or don't they? Canada, EU, pretty much all other countries, are typically far ahead of the US when it comes to lighting safety. Are there any cars sold there that they chose to do the taillights illuminated with the DRLs? I'm guessing automatic head-lights would be the default solution as almost all cars have that ever since DRLs were the norm. I can confirm, both my import cars do have an AUTO position in addition to OFF. I do recall one instance in the Acura where my wife turned the headlights completely off on accident after having turned them on to comply with Missouri's lights with wipers law. She drove quite a bit in the evening (before it was completely dark) without noticing since the digits and needles of the dash still illuminate. I noticed the blue dial lights seemed to be out, so I had her fiddle with the dimmer thinking maybe something broke. That's when it dawned on us the headlights weren't on. Both my GMs with DRL and auto headlights are like you mentioned, OFF = AUTO. No way to turn them completely off.

I recall seeing signs like that on a trip a number of years back. I forget which state it was, but it was advising that it was the law that if your wipers were on, your headlights also had to be on. Seemed strange to me....but then I remembered that our DRL laws indicate that any vehicle 1990 or new has to be so equipped, and that vehicles without DRLs (pre-1990 or US visitors) are required to have their low beams on at all times when the vehicle is in operation....so there aren't any signs indicating when the lights are to be on since they're more or less always supposed to be on. In reality though.....that last portion is rarely if ever enforced. The DRL rules have also changed for vehicles made after 2021. They now need to either illuminate the tail lights with the DRLs, be equipped with automatic head-lights, or have the dash remain dark unless the headlights are on. There has been an issue across the country with people driving at night with just their DRLs...which historically have not illuminated the taillights. The issue was compounded by the fact that the cluster was lit up at all times, so there was no real indication to the driver about the issue. I never really understood how it could happen, as every vehicle I've owned dating back to my 89 Regal had the headlight off position double as the "auto" setting. Turns out that most imports have an actual off position as the "default" headlight switch position...and being on the turn signal stalk, it's all too easy to accidentally turn the auto lights off without realizing it.

Yeah, some states even require headlights on when it rains, and sometimes it's still quite bright out when that happens. Anytime I've turned on my lights during the daytime, the dash is too dim to see.

It never dawned on me before THAT was the reason for the max brightness setting....but it does make a ton of sense now that I think about it. Pretty sure My 89 stayed on max brightness when I had it, as the automatic headlights kicked on before I would consider it to be dark enough to warrant turning the lights on....making the digital dash too dim on any other setting.