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any 1st gen w-body or 1.5 gen w-body will have a sway bar that will fit. They MIGHT be different sizes, but will physically fit. Grab the bar + brackets, and bushings. and then get new bushings. cars with a 3.4 DOHC should have a bigger front bar.

After a little more digging I may have found a solution. On the struts they're are holes that look like swaybar inlink holes. A 2005 pontiac grand prix had the w body but switched up the swaybar setup to use inlinks and I've read that you can use this setup for the w body cars so I might try that. Has anyone ever heard of this?

Yeah and all junkyards don't have it either. If anyone has one on here they would be willing to sell I'd be happy to buy it. They don't make an aftermarket one either. I can get mine welded but it's meant to twist and bend so don't think welding would be a very good option but at this point it's the only thing I can think of lol. I'd hate to just junk the car cause I can't find a swaybar. That's just sounds crazy but without it is just sways all over the place unless you drive like a grandma.

14101234 That's the GM part number I came up with for a 1989 Cutlass Supreme with the 3.1l. Seems to be discontinued everywhere.

I have an 89 oldsmobile cutlass supreme 3.1 my front swaybar broke on the passengers side, not inlinks, it doesn't have any, the whole bar broke. Been looking everywhere for some kind of replacement. Just wondering if anyone knows any kind of other car that I can use one from because I can't seem to find any. Never seen a whole sawybar break but sure didn't think that it would be so hard to find one. The ones I can find are either for earlier or later models that do have inlinks and they won't fit.

Thanks! Looks like they both use the same fcs rear shock/strut assembly according to rockauto. I'll definitely keep in mind looking into springs as well.

Another on-line resources for checking part compatibility is a recycling yard search engine site called car-part.com. The search results can be set to include "All Interchange Choices", so that the search results include vehicles with parts that fit your vehicle Or you could call a recycling yard and ask about interchange options.

I personally cannot say, though my usual method is to go on Rockauto and look up both vehicles with a more common strut, KYB, Monroe whatever and see if the part numbers match, if those more common struts are the same I'd say theres a good chance the Bilstiens fit. You many want to change springs as well as I'd imagine Buick springs may be made for a different ride height and for sure will be softer.

I'm looking at getting new rear shocks and struts for my 2007 Buick Lacrosse, and I noticed bilstein makes struts and shocks for the same gen Impala. I was wondering if anyone knows if they would bolt up without any modification. If not, does anyone have any recommendations on something specifically for the Lacrosse?

Greetings form Peru justa wan to share my new preservation project with the community. it's a legitimate 1991 OLSDMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME INTERNATIONAL SERIES COUPE ( X-Code 3.4L DOHC TWIN Dual Cam) with only 25,857 original miles Here is a crazy part of its history: Someone in the past installed a 3rd-generation LPG system on it, which caused it to stop running back in the day. Because of that mistake, the car was left sitting for decades, sleeping like a time capsule! A blessing in disguise for me. Everything from the LPG system has been removed from the engine bay, except for the 16-gallon tank in the trunk and the exterior filler valve, which I will remove and patch later. The great news is that the engine is finally up and running again, and it sounds great! The interior is full Burgundy leather with the premium AQ9 bucket seats, and the green digital cluster works perfectly. Right now, I'm doing a complete brake overhaul (the front calipers were seized) and getting ready for a full fluid flush. New water pump and mechanical thermostat are going in next. My approach is mechanics first: make it move, shift, and brake safely, then deal with the bodywork. Glad to be here, and I'd love to hear your thoughts, technical tips, and recommendations for bringing this 90s unicorn back to life! WhatsApp Video 2026-.mp4 WhatsApp Video 2026-06-28 .mp4

Probably just due to manufacturing issues or Chevy didn't have a need for a car that sized right away in 1988. There were no sedans in 1988 only coupes. Sedans started in 1990 so that might have something to do with it. GM had a lot of issues getting production going with these cars back then. Doraville, GA is where the Cutlass Supreme and later the Lumina in 1990 were assembled. There was a massive retooling going on and there were issues on the line. These cars were all new and GM already put billions into getting these cars built. GM did have the Beretta at the time, so the need for another coupe in 1988 probably wasn't too high on the list.

Do we know why the Lumina took 2 extra years to get to market? I don't think they mentioned Chevy once in this video. Come to think of it, the Lumina was treated very differently from the other Ws. Last one on the market, first one to get a generational overhaul, and the last "first" gen to be discontinued.

There's surprisingly very little drone, and it's only really noticeable at idle and light acceleration. That said, every ls4 with modified exhaust has this same dumpy bassy tone to it. I attribute a lot of it to the crappy exhaust manifolds, as headers sound ok ok them.

The larger the dia of the pipe the deeper the tone of the drone. In my opinion anything from Magnaflow or Borla will have a considerable amount of *throat* to them. I personally like to be able to hear the radio at something a little over a whisper.....

Exhaust v1.2. I wasn't happy with how loud it turned out despite the mufflers. I'm sure the 3" exhaust isn't quieting it down at all, but the mufflers are Borla Pro XS which are supposed to be a "quieter" muffler. So, I added a inline chambered muffler from Remco which toned it down a bit. It sounds less like a dumpy bass drum now. The reason for the 3" is that I plan on going turbo next year and figured I'd set myself up for it.

The source for that listing....does the kit include all of the various different harness connectors for OBD1?

Awesome

A Pathfinder 93 should cover the 1990 model year.

I’m including another article by Huibert Mees. In this article he explains why lowering a car even 1” can have substantially negative effects. All things I have said for decades as well as here recently. The one thing that is not touched upon is lowering the CG without lowering the car!! What happens then? I explain this in my member's post, last Indian, a ground pounder build. The short version is there are ways to move weight & add weight all below CG. When this is done correctly this lowers the CG in a good way without impacting roll centers or suspension travel! And in doing so you may be able to move weight in such a manner like I did to affect weight distribution as well, depending on how you do it. https://www.theautopian.com/heres-how-lowering-a-car-can-ruin-its-handling/

I think I found an otc 4000e. With the gm cartridge.

Thanks you so much for the info and advice.

Ok, that sounds like what you have is a *code reader*, it's not a scanner. A proper scanner is more advantageous to one. The scanner will clear that code, the scanner will run a diagnostic on all of the sensors in the system. It has *realtime* capabilities, as for the IAC relearn this scanner will go thru the steps needed. Look on ebay for a used complete scanner kit, the replacement for the OTC 4000E was the OTC Genisys SPX system, a newer version, capable with both OBD1 & pretty much all OBD2 up to 2010 until the EVO replaced it. Even if it sounds like a somewhat expensive initial outlay a scanner is a worthwhile tool to own.

I have the little Gm plug in style. And the code comes up as a 35 and in the code book says ( IAC system problem-can not set desired RPM. In service manual it says that it has to be relearned with the Tech 1. I was wondering if there was a way around that.

You're more than likely going to find yourself on ebay looking for one, everything in the market today is geared to OBD2. Some older models would read OBD1 & OBD2 up to a given year depending on the plug in cartridge. The interface for OBD1 was not a single standard plug, it varied on the vehicle manufacturer & so did the harness to the scanner. The item I own is an OTC 4000 enhanced. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=otc+monitor+4000+enhanced&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1311&_odkw=otc+monitor+4000&_sop=12

I get it, I don’t want to shoot the parts cannon at it. lol. And suggestions on a live read scanner. Do they sell something like that for OBS1’s