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Right. It's no museum piece and has a lot of legit serious issues that will greatly degrade its value that this is nothing in comparison. Just trying to decide if it's worth pulling when I already have the rest of the interior torn apart to remove all my other less obvious electrical mods.

That's how I'm looking at it. I wouldn't have not bought the Regal, or insisted on paying any less for it if there was a disconnected and neatly stored amp wire running back to the trunk, everything else being equal. My thought is that the target buyer for that car is the type of person to be a member here, and is likely to be relatively well versed in them to where something like that wouldn't make a difference in either case. It's not a super low mileage museum piece where I feel something like that would make a difference. If anything, that car being "The Car" of these forums makes it more desirable, but that's just me.

I was thinking along the lines of anyone being interested in this car is likely to be a millenial or X'er that isn't going to be as into subs & amps as someone in their 20s. As far as doing it for me, I'm in "do what makes it most appealing to sell" mode. if I were intending to keep the car, I'd leave all my mods intact as I really liked them. However, I'm out of space and had to pass up a semi-unicorn car I really wanted that was priced very aggressively because of it.

If it were me I'd pull it... but I also wouldn't worry too much about seeing it neatly tied up and disconnected at both ends if I were a buyer. It was the style at the time to run aftermarket stereos in nearly everything, so I consider it to be remanent of a former, period correct modification.

Agree. As I always say, your car, your call. Do it for what you want rather than what the next owner may (or may not) want. I myself am after the total factory look, but if I can hide something that will otherwise give it the factory look, that's good news. I've replaced my Retrosound rear speakers with another aftermarket brand set that fits into the hole and under the grille sufficiently. They get hit by the sun with that huge rear window so I avoided a paper coned speaker with something more durable. I'm loathing replacing the door panel speakers, but as soon as II find that set of correct NOS ones I've got in storage somewhere, I've got a job to do............

The thought here was that you don't drive your W's in the winter.

Unfortunately its the opposite of that pre-conceived notion of the south, they spread that stuff anytime the temp gets close to 32F overnight and its wet out. Ive researched a bit more into the options available and will go with the coated PowerStop kit from RA. Just trying to generate some conversation I guess...

I mean...those uncoated rotors often flash rust after a single wash and start looking pretty shabby in very short order, especially if the car has the 5 spokes or some other wheel that shows much of the brakes. Definitely won't need protection from salt, but as the coated ones do decently well against that, I can see them lasting forever on a southern car.

Finally committed (a year later) to go back to stock. Debating whether I should remove the 4ga amp wire while I'm in there. It runs through the factory grommet and inside the door sill trim with the rest of the factory wiring. Underhood, there's just a red wire neatly wire-tied to the cruise control cable and disappearing into the firewall. The end underhood is a ring terminal tucked away, so you can't see where the end actually terminates. There is no longer a fuse or length of wire going to the battery terminal or positive jump start terminal. Personally, my amps & subs days are long over. I'm not sure if anyone who would buy a vintage W-body would still be into amps & subs. I'm already pulling trim to remove the 20yr old DVD navigation I've got in it, so it's not a ton of extra hassle. 2 of 2 AIs are telling me this: Bottom line, both say to pull it. Agree? Disagree? I know if someone did want amps & subs, leaving it would save them a whole lot of trouble.

I'm somewhat surprised that where you are in Tennessee that you have to even concern yourself about this. Now if you lived up here.......well, that's a different matter.

Not on my W's...but I use them on my dailies. I prefer to use the rotors with the black coated hat/edge vs the silver coated ones, as I find they hold up better. They seem to hold up relatively well, even throughout the winter. In all honesty though, if your current rotors are still good you could always hit them with a bit of black spray paint. I quickly hit the rear drums of my truck over 5 years ago without any real prep work, and those have held up better than some of the coated rotors i've run.

A maroon or dark green GS, tan interior and tinted windows with "Buick" mud flaps hits a 99-04ish nostalgia spot. Would still have to have those logo puddle lights though.

Looking to replace the brake rotors on my 1994 Cutlass and I would like to have some that didnt form rust in the non-contact parts. Has anyone used some of the premium coated rotors offered with any success?

My grandparents had a 04 Regal GS with a "supercharged" emblem on the trunk lid. If I recall it was on the driver side.

Check Amazon. Just search Buick logo door light. Some are stick on with double sided tape and a magnet style sensor to activate them one the door opens.

Usually Indian for some reason. i did get on rock auto for your application, they did have one of the mounts in GM.

I guess I'll give DEA a try... from what I been reading it's all the same Subpar quality Chinese stuff.

GM if you can get them, anchor would be last resort. I just ordered a complete set of DEA mounts a couple days ago ago for my Lumina.

Greetings everyone. I tried searching but didnt find anything about what engine/trans mounts to go with. I know the options are very limited Anchor, Westar and DEA but I'm hoping yall can recommend which one you all have had the better experience. The car is a 2000 Buick regal GS thanks.

Man, surprised it was still available! /s

Shoot, those were impossible to find when I had mine. To put that into perspective, I had mine from 03-09. There were some guys that made 4th gen F body seals work, but those may or may not be available at this point as well

Hey Guys, I'm restoring my 1993 Olds Convertible. I'm having trouble sourcing new rubber for the seals on the windows, doors, and trunk. Any ideas? Thanks!

Wow, that's awesome!

Got the fuel line disconnected and fuel can ready to go but no go on the fuel pump. Do I have it wrong here? The car has been sitting for 6 weeks so the battery may be weak but radio turns on. Edit nevermind I'm an idiot i see the number on bottom of relay and i had it wrong Works like a charm thanks all

UPDATE: the car is going to the mechanic on 2/23 for this job. It will be going to a chevy dealer whose mechanic has decades of experience which is exactly what I was looking for. This mechanic is semi-retired and picks & chooses the jobs he wants to do. When he learned I'm the original and 4th owner he took the job. I was asked to supply all the parts which I think I will need. Included with these parts will be a new EGR valve and a new Low Coolant Sensor (due to the coolant being partially drained). I made a copy of Gnat's photo so thanks again for this. I will be seeing how the mechanic feels about just going the RTV route in lieu of pulling the rear head. Not only will the job be alot cheaper, I'd really prefer not opening that Pandora's box of potential additional issues if the head needs to be taken off.