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This is pretty cool, I'll have to check which mine have later.

amended

That's a file local to your computer, we can't access it

W body spring codes *paste this into your web browser address bar* my fronts are FYB, the rear is RFK *let's try this again.......this should work*

Automatic equipped FE3 springs from a 3.4 DOHC car seem to be the stiffest. The manual trans springs are slightly less stiff (as compared side by side, and they have different part numbers). In other words your automatic Z34 has the stiffest ever available factory.

I should have specified contacting a spring shop that specializes in making custom coil springs like this website https://www.coilsprings.com/classic-car-coil-springs No idea what numbers you'd have to give them, I wish I had a spec sheet from a discontinued aftermarket performance option for reference but I imagine those are very hard to come by.

The *actuator* was discontinued approx 20 years ago.......finding an NOS piece would be a challenge. The item IS serviceable..........

I know it's been done before. I think the biggest issue is always switching the vehicle over to OBDII. But if you aren't going for a Series II L67 a Series I L67 from a Bonneville that is OBD 1.5 might make a better option.

Hello everyone out there. Unfortunately Gm has made the decision to discontinue the cam belt tensioner for the 3.4 dohc engine. What's the feasibility of swapping out the 3.4 with the 3.8sc?

Spring shops can only install what's available in the aftermarket, & FE3's are not one of them. The springs availability is *generalized*, only the basic spring would be available.

I did a bit of digging on this a while ago and unfortunately if you want to change anything about the suspension rate in these cars now past what FE3 gives you'll either need to contact a spring shop or figure out how to fit coilovers on the car. There were custom coilover mounts available here but the last batch sold out years ago. I'm sure there are springs out there that fit the car and provide a stiffer rate than stock but as far as I'm aware nobody has come across ones that fit.

I gotcha. Just was wondering if there was something beefier for the W-Body I should look for.

The springs are not a *Chevy* thing....all 1st Gen W's with the FE3 got the stiffest coils available. What's under your Z34 is also under a GP with the FE3 suspension.

Not lower. Just have the best/highest spring rating chevy offered.

There are no longer aftermarket *performance* springs manufactured for the 1st gen W's, if you've got the FE3 suspension under the car then you've already got the stiffest springs available. I take it that you want lower the front to match the dropped rear's ride height?

1994 Lumina Z34. Already have the rear end taken care of, and I wanted to beef up the front. Anyone know of the firmest springs I can get for the front of that strut design? I think I read something a while ago about 1996 Monte Carlo 3.4 front springs would be it. Suggestions?

I’m leaning toward an injector issue. Belt and tensioner are new with the engine install. Vacuum lines are good. I’m going to replace the MAP and TPS. Definitely seems fuel or air related.

I am currently having issues with a p0401 code. This being after changing the egr vamve, changing vacuum hoses (intake vacuum hose, pcv hise as well), and smoke testing for leaks. It eventually leads to a cylinder 1 misfire. I did utilize a metal wire to clean out the passge from the egr to the throttle body - but, when I utilized a borroscope, it did still look a little crudy in there. I also wonder, behind the throttle boddy, there is a lot of black soot located there, there is a circular portion there that is the passage to the egr, does this have a small hole that leads to the egr passage, or a screen of some sort, or does it need to be completely clear? If so, this MAY be why, I cleared a small hole as the rest appeared to be hardened and I didn't want to break anything. Thanks for the assistance.

Yep. Same with mine. I did order that relay box from GMpartsGiant. Definitely worth a try.

I looked at the oe pulse board. And all the solder joints look good. A replacement looks like p/n 22154753. But is hard to find. There’s got to be something a little wrong. Like a ground or something. Now I’m only bench testing it it’s not bolted back onto car. Does it need to be mounted for it to get resistance? I’m really stressed about this.

right, thats how mine is and i was trying to deduce if his was the same setup (as I assume it is). reason being, from fully slid open -> closed, and closed -> vent both use the same side of the button, the same direction, and vice versa for opposite direction. if it's venting and closing/closed to venting properly, it may be getting bound up, but if it's one side of the switch every time it may be a different issue. If it drops a bit below, I'm thinking maybe it's not getting past the point of being down far enough to start sliding back; bound up, or even something wedged in there, but if it's going down below the roof line then it's at least attempting to start moving to the slid open position. Do this, with it vented, can you see a little tiny button on the side of one of the hinge/slide mechanisms? I thought for a while mine was just getting stuck pressed so it thought the sunroof was closed My issue was from vent -> close and close -> slid open that side of the switch/button/relay would work about 50% of the time for a while and then it got to the point where it would work less than 1% of the time, until I finally grabbed that other newer relay unit to experiment, and it worked out

I would`ve liked that badge to be illuminated on the door pillar with black powdercoated door handles/lockplate vs the vertical pillar handle design we got.

Bad belt/tensioner, dried out vacuum lines, failing injectors, worn out O2 sensor, ethanol gas, corroded battery/starter/alternator cables and grounds are all things ive experienced in the different versions of the 3.1 running poorly or not at all. A compression and fuel pressure test might be a good idea here.

Ive been getting water collecting in the spare tire well in the TGP and havent been able to figure out where its coming from. Thanks for mentioning the sealer failure, I will take a closer look.

When retracting...... the entire glass frame lowers to below the roofline & then retracts along the runners to the full stop position at the back end of the runner assembly. When the assembly is in the *closed position* the glass is flush with the roofline exterior.