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Sweet! Sucks that you can’t make a new account though, searching the forum is cool but if I want to view an individuals account I can’t without my own:/ still great work keeping the site up though, great wealth of information

TGPforums.com is now working again. It is still in archive status, meaning no new member registrations are allowed, but the forum is searchable without the need for a registered account.

Now in that same spot I see a coolant leak . Very small but it's there. I will be trying out some bar-seal stop leak on it in the hope this will stop it. Old car, you gotta love 'em. Or hate 'em, I don't know which. Something else that's odd is, I had them change out the LOW COOLANT sensor for a new one, and the LOW COOLANT warning still went on anyway. The car is not low on coolant. Geez.

The booster is held on with a 1/4 turn lock. Make sure the locking tab isn’t holding it from rotating, (push/pull it into unlocked position.) then get a prybar on the master cylinder studs and rotate it off. It’s so simple it’s stupid. Just an odd ball design.

My father owns a 94 cutlass supreme convertible and its brake booster has failed. Everywhere i look for steps to replace the booster mentions 4 bolts holding the booster from inside the firewall, however, when I go to look, no bolts are to be found. When I look at the new booster, it seems to lock into place using grooves and some kind of locking bar. Nothing I do really does anything to get this booster to move and I am stumped on how to progress. The coter pin is out and the pedal disconnected. The master cylinder and abs contraption is off and out of the way. Theoretically, it should pop right out, yet it holds firm. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance.

Hey everyone, im currently looking for a couple of trim pieces for my 2002 buick regal. Im looking at getting the passenger door trim molding (exterior) and the rear deck seat belt cover (pic attached) willing to buy a whole door if need be

Don't know how important this was to the corrosion resistance, but I forgot to mention I primed mine with Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Compound spray. It worked surprisingly well as a primer on bare metal. It never chipped, flaked, or peeled. I don't know if it's the same formula today as the one I used a couple decades ago. Photos looks like it's now a smooth gray primer appearance, but mine was a very sparkly shiny bright metallic silver color. Almost looked like fine very fine glitter. Still have the can and looks like it's the same can as the current product though, so who knows.

When I did brakes on my truck, I used black caliper paint, just to protect the calipers, center of rotors, and the rear drums. It's held up fine. Anything driven up here in the salt, the brakes usually start looking bad after just a year.

You get it, you have those rims that visually open up the brake/suspension components much like the rims I have. When the rims and tires look good the rusty looking parts stand out. All the replacement parts for our 1st gens almost immediately flash rust out of the box and most 1st gen rims are mesh or solid so it never mattered, until 2026 when these are the "newest" classic antiques. I`m not trying to build a show car but something resembling a higher optioned factory 1 off that might show up at a show or randomly in traffic because the MPGs on a 3100.

Ok I tried the new relay and tried a different switch. Is it possible that my sunroof is only set up to tilt? I ask this because there is no effort to even try to open fully from the motor. Could the motor be bad? Or are there clips on the track that need to be removed? I just don’t get it.

Wrong plugs altogether? Or correct plugs but gapped incorrectly? OEM plugs were always a requirement for these cars, and even 20 years ago, we had quite a few bad running engine posts where the fix was "replaced plugs with OEM". I've seen these things run nearly flawless on heavily worn OEM plugs with gaps closer to the 0.090" range...so I'm not sure the gap alone was the main issue.

DOUBLE UPDATE - some really great news to report here. I was hoping for this and it just might be coming true..........I have been monitoring the amount of oil dripping in my flat pan since the return of the car, and its getting less and less. It may just be this was residual oil already on places on the motor that were not able to be wiped off, and I just might something here, an almost non-oil leaking LQ-1. Even the wife noticed how well the car is running, and if she notices, now that can't be bad, can it...........

SOLVED! It’s unreal, but the shop installed the wrong spark plugs! Gapped to 0.060” instead of 0.045”. I put the OEM plugs and it runs great.

UPDATE: Got the car back yesterday. A fantastic job was done by the mechanic. Maybe it's just me but the motor seems to be quieter and it's running much better, must be all those new intake gaskets(?). I checked this morning, there is no more oil coming from the oil pump drive, so it looks like the RTV will probably hold. Unfortunately the car is still leaking oil, coming from the lower part of the motor. Not anywhere near as bad as it was though, so for now it will be something I can live with. They also cleaned the engine compartment out of all the oil & grease, changed the oil, and installed a new EGR replacing the original one. Thanks to all for the advice on this one, this is one less major issue this LQ1 now has

I painted mine. Masked off the brake pad contact area. Held up pretty good 20+ years later, but I never drive it in winter.

I don't remember there being too much different in the wiring. I had installed a GM Accessories alarm in the '88 and was able to completely go by the wiring diagram and service manual of the '89.

Dude.... I own this car now.... Mine is exactly how your describing yours... From florida originally but Ohio car, hail damage, salvage title, center line wheels and the black hood and spoiler... Bro I have your car lol.

If we’re talking bone stock out of the factory, it might be a very close call between the w-body2 (the MS2000 platform(“97”-“03”) GTP Grand Prix & the 1990 Cutlass international. If we’re talking modest mods, it’s going to be the GP (“97”-“03”) & if it’s a full out build, then there is no competition. It’s the GP (“97”-“03”)! Why? I have driven all of them extensively in testing & owned quite a few as well. So; I’m not being prejudiced or a smart guy! It’s just you can’t argue with physics! Now there are minor things that can be done to help improve the inherent physics incorporated into a platform/model & some more than others, but they tend to be somewhat limiting. While you might think all models in a platform have the same physics, they do not! Height, width, wheelbase, weight distribution, etc. are all different & consequencally so goes the base physics that limits the overall performance. Furthermore Super Buick is correct! The skidpad test is just one data point & while it measures lateral g acceleration, it is not a true test of an active suspension & how the suspension components work with regards to the handling. What it is, is the test of three things! The adhesion of the tire coefficient to the pavement, the stability of the components to hold their positions relative to geometrical physics that were designed into the vehicle, I.E. CG & RC, etc. Plus the moment of inertia! But the moment of inertia that is measured in the skidpad is minuscule in comparison to performance handling! Which is a critical element in car handling! What the skidpad test can’t test is suspension rollover, hard instant response handling like slalom racing, accelerometer force generated by such aggressive movements & platform resonance frequency, in which the latter can drastically influence the total performance of suspension performance.

Hey guys - as part of my resto of the 1990 Quad4 Cutlass International, I'm looking for a pristine-ish "donor car" (to either use the body so I dont have to spend a ton on painting the 1990) or for the unobtanium trim bits etc. I did a body swap on my STE restoration - so it ended up with the 1991 drivetrain but I used all the 1992 electrics (the body harness and underhood (non engine) harness was different from 1991 to 1992, but the engine wiring was the same, so it worked out well. One of the cutlasses Ive found is a 1988 (2.8 auto). I know obviously the engine harness would be completely different from a quad 4 to a 2.8, but does anyone know how different the "other harnesses" are from 88-90? like the underhood fuse stuff, interior stuff (assuming same options of course), etc?

UPDATE: I was just advised the mechanic is going to elect to go the RTV route; the head will not be pulled for this job. I think you can all hear the huge yell of relief coming from this desk. I'll be sure to post once completed.

Absolutely not in the TGP after the roads are salted, and never when its wet to avoid road spray. But for the `94 CS I might like to DD it part time during the year. It's rotors have been long overdue for replacement and for a surprisingly small price difference the F/R kits get everything from one shipping location vs all over.

You never know... It could very well be! Funny story about stuff like that....My parents had a mid 70s silver Avion camper when I was a kid that I absolutely loved. It was sold to someone from out of province in very early 2000, supposedly to be used for parts to repair an identical unit that had a partially collapse on it, but was in better shape interior wise. I ended up coming across an identical unit for sale a couple years ago on Facebook marketplace, and while checking out the pictures, out of all things the stereo is what caught my eye. Sure as shit, it was our old camper. Further proven when my parents came across a draft of the bill of sale that had the matching serial number. Part of me just about ran out and bought it....but I passed as the layout really wouldn't work for my family.

I feel like it was a red 4-door. No real reason, just a feeling.

LOL imagine if it was the same one. I dont even recall what the original one was