All Activity

The radiator should never have air in it after it's been properly bled, if there's coolant in the overflow bottle, and there's no other problems with the cooling system. Doesn't have to be as serious as a head-gasket issue, though. Could be as simple as a failed seal on the radiator cap, a leaking hose between the rad and the overflow, or a loose clamp on that hose. Could even be a leaking radiator, where the leak is so small that not much coolant leaks out, but air gets in on shutdown/cooldown.

The point of dimming the various dash lights when the headlights are turned-on is to NOT DESTROY YOUR NIGHT VISION. Your pupils dilate in low-light conditions. They contract in bright light. When you're looking out into darkness, somewhat lit by your headlights, you want your pupils dilated to bring as much light as possible onto your retinas--so you can still see where your headlights are not directly pointing--to the sides, and further down the roadway. Bright dash lights cause your pupils to contract. The opposite of what you want, and what is "safe". Of course, you could CLEAN ALL THE DASH LIGHT LENSES, and REPLACE ALL THE BULBS WITH NEW INCANDESCENT LAMPS (direct replacement, not cheap-junk Chinese LEDs.) I guarantee that any original incandescent light bulbs from the 1990s are worn-out even if they still "work". You'll see that the glass "bulb" has become silvered, there's plenty of light being generated by the filament, but it doesn't get out of the darkened glass bulb. For that matter, it's EXACTLY the same with incandescent headlights. "New" headlights with clean, shiny, non-corroded reflectors and non-silvered glass will be brighter at the same voltage than "old" headlights.

I wasn’t sure if there was a separate wire specifically for dimming under those circumstances of Turing the headlights on vs just the regular dimmer lever. If it’s one wire for all dimming on the gauge cluster and interior lights, yeah don’t.. At least in my dads 91, no matter where the dimmer is, turning on the headlights will dim all interior lights, and there’s no way to change their brightness except lower on the dimmer switch, could be different for how his 89, 94 or 95 Is but that’s how 91 cs’s are

Don't know if you want to do that...the dimmer is integral in the headlight assembly, if you *at the moment* are seeing the cluster lamps *dim* when you bring on the headlamps then push up the dimmer lever to all the way bright. In that position the cluster lights won't change their brightness. If you haven't altered the wiring for the fogs they only come on when the lows are in use.

I’d be looking for a wire that goes from the headlight/foglight switch that goes into the bcm(you don’t clarify which vehicle, so if it’s the 94 or 95 it’ll have one) put a meter on it and see what changes on that specific wire when you flip the fog or headlight switch, I’d guess it tells the bcm to dim those components, so all together removing that wire should in theory stop that from happening, assuming that’s that wires only job. If it were me I’d put a switch in that wire and put it under the dash somewhere so I could have that dimming feature back if I liked but that’s just me… also if it’s your tgp, it will probably be more simple since there’s no bcm, and removing that wire will almost certainly do what you’d like it to. In any case don’t just cut it in case it doesn’t do what you want it to, just depin it and remove it from the fog switch connector just for testing. in any case, unless im missing something, this should be a very easy thing to do, just a bit of investigative work on your part. It also should not remove the incremental dimming. Those are usually on a timer and are on a complexity different part of the circuit than the dash light circuit.

? how short are you?.....

I would like to disable the way the dash, HUD and gauge cluster bulbs dim when turning on the fog lights/headlights. However I would like to keep the incremental dimming feature of the interior courtesy lights after the car has been shut off. Is this possible to do? I`m studying the diagrams trying to answer my own question but coming up short.

Add "replaced PS rack pressure switch" to the list and it still doesn't work.

OK, I've been racking my brain trying to think of how that could be the case since auto-dimming and (if applicable) compass/temp displays run off the same positive wire on all Gentex mirrors (see the wiring diagram I posted a few replies ago). But I just remembered something I keep forgetting about these mirrors until I bench test them. Yes, it follows the same wiring pinouts as all other 7-pin mirrors, BUT...unlike any other mirror, when I connect pin 1 (power to auto dimming, and if applicable, compass/mirror display), and pin 2 (ground), the mirror won't power on at all. Neither the auto-dimming NOR the display will work until I connect the map lights constant power wire to power, so there's definitely something different about the internal circuitry of these particular mirrors, and that applies to both with and without compass (just tested the without compass mirror like the one pwmin just got, and it does the same thing; auto-dimming doesn't work until the map lights constant power wire is powered). So this doesn't only impact the VFD, as the wire that powers on the VFD and the auto-dimming are the same. This just led me to test the "fully loaded" mirror above, which also has LED map lights, because I couldn't remember off the top of my head if it did the same thing. It did. Connecting power to the auto-dimming/display wire and ground (the equivalent to just pins 1 and 2 in the 7 pin mirrors) didn't do anything. I had to connect the constant power wire for the map lights in order for them to kick on. Connecting the HomeLink power and ground allowed the HomeLink to work, though. I'm guessing this holds true for any other map lights auto-dimming mirror, which is really a shame. These could be useful in a LOT of cars, but the need for a BCM with battery rundown protection feature eliminates them as an option for many older cars, especially if they're not a daily driver. Sucks.

Absolutely, me too. Unfortunately my car was given the 01-03 one, so I’m almost positive they’re swappable, and because of that this Daytona had a decent one, so I grabbed it, and I can’t wait to put it on

The 97 to y2k steering wheel is my favorite.

There is an aftermarket one, when it does happen I can wiggle some of the wiring to it and the car fires right up. Ive had to unplug the horn and battery ground to keep from pissing off the neighbors as it will go off for no reason at all and rearms itself after 20 seconds. I went to the manufacturer to get some info on it but it wont disable after going through the process outlined. Its a rats nest of wires, relays and fuse holders all taped together with other wires just clipped and hanging. I`m slowly starting to ID and label what I can without taking out the drivers seat.

Kr gauge would be neat, I already have real boost gauge but yeah a kr monitor would be real neat. Also cool thank you for looking, really appreciate it, I’ll be digging into that tomorrow, just gotta see if a pin on the inside will lead to that or if I have to run one all the way from the pcm, either way, I’ll be adding it and my 97-2000 style steering wheel tomorrow

I did some searching. Looks like its pin 21. My car only has the performance shift indicator on the DIC. I've thought about adding it to the gauge cluster. I also want a real boost gauge and a gauge to monitor KR.

I believe it’s just a ground and and a wire to pin(23? I think) to the pcm, enable it in hptuners and it’ll work

I've never pulled the dash on my 2nd gen. The first gens are very easy. I can't imagine it's all that different. 2nd gen interiors are like legos. Switching over to a ECC is probably more trouble than it's worth. Those units are known to have issues. Mine still works fine, but I like the simple controls of the manual climate controls. Performance shift is cool and has been done many times. It's simple to do and you can get it tuned so it works properly.

I recall @GnatGoSplat commenting that on the specific mirrors from the Intrigue, the constant power for the map lights kept the VFD grid powered on, and visible in the dark, and that it was the cause of the drain when running without a BCM. I also seem to recall there being a fix where the grid was either disconnected, or possibly rewired internally to run off the switched power feed instead. If I had to guess, the constant power actually powers the entire mirror, with the switched powers used moreso as controls to turn on and off the courtesy lights and the mirror/compass. If the grid on the compass display was the main draw on the intrigue mirror, the lack of it on the Sebring mirror might mean there is much less of a draw, even if the circuitry is otherwise identical.

It’s at some guys house so if he’s cool enough he’ll supply the beer almost wondering if it’s more worth waiting for one to come up at an actual scrap yard and making a day out of it vs being at some random dudes house for 4 hours working on it..

I guess we'll see if it drains it. I can check for a draw, too. I have a circuit breaker I can always turn off when it's going to sit.

Nothing wrong in bringing your lunch to a salvage yard, just hide the beer under the Mt. Dew. Its not impossible but you do end up fighting a few different plastic clips while holding the dash with your knees at some point, IIRC. Just expect the upper sun soaked area to be brittle when you`re handling it so it doesn't crack. A factory service manual has very nice diagrams that show every mounting point.

Positive/power for the compass is shared with the auto-dimming wire, meaning a compass on any auto-dimming mirror requires no additional wiring. That wire is run to a source that only comes on with power/ignition. The LED map light mirrors have an issue because one of the wires is tapped into a courtesy light source so that they can come on with the rest of the lights when you open the doors or turn on interior lights. That is apparently where the problem lies, because the courtesy lights on '00ish and up vehicles were quite often controlled by a BCM, so without that, the LED map lights continuously draw a small amount of power (about the equivalent to a 194 bulb according to @GnatGoSplat). Not positive if that applies to these Sebring/compass-less mirrors, too, but it would be hard to imagine they had 2 virtually identical mirrors with different circuitry in them.

If I understood correctly, the battery drain issue with the Intrigue version was due to the heater grid in the compass VFD being powered by the always on power lead for the map lights...which was ultimately controlled by the BCM in its original application. Since your mirror doesn't have a compass, you might not experience the same drain issue.

This is the wiring diagram for that mirror. The only wire I don't include is pin 3, which disables auto-dim in reverse. Pretty useless feature IMO, so rather than adding more complication for my customers (have to tap into a reverse light power source), I just remove that pin from the connector.

I had the power wires backwards. Not sure if the auto dim feature works and/or if I'll have to add another wire, but the map lights are working. Hopefully it doesn't kill my battery

It's not bad, takes a couple hours if I remember correctly. Last time I took mine apart was about 2 years ago.